I am such a dumbass. This whole time I am thinking I have a 3:55 rear end and its the little bitty 3.08.
What a pisser
So now I want 4.10 for sure. I will do the swap myself.
Tell me what Ineed to buy and if anyone has a place to reccommend for purchasing pass it on.

2000 4.6L F150 2wd
Axle code 18

Vagina

 

http://www.accuautoparts.com/

Thats where I bought my 4.10's. I also purchased the master install kit, as well as rearaxle seals, and bearings. You'll probably also want to purchase 3-4 qts of gear oil, and possibly some additive. I'm having a shop do it, so they are taking care of the oil for me.

Cost me a little under $400.

Hope this helps.

 

Are we related? I'm M ALEXANDER.......
What rear end do you currently have? Is $400 materials only or does it include labor?

 

LOL, I noticed. Probably not. I have H9, 3.55 LS. $400 is just materials. I was quoted $325 to put it in w/1 yr warranty.

 

3.08 gears are physically stronger than 4.10s, by a wide margin. Why do you want to change gears? If it's for towing, you'd be better off with a different transmission.
You need to pay someone with experience to do it.

 

Thats where I started Steve. I went to monstertransmission.com and they have 3 leves of tranny available, oem, heavy duty and racing performance apps. I have been looking at the heavyduty app for $1895. additionally i do a lot of running around where I live (home depot, lowes, tons of do it your self projects). Short 5 to 10 mile trips of stop and go stuff. I have been reading that the steeper rear ends put a littel more to tq and hp to the ground. These steeper rearends give the truck a quicker acceleration as well which are all things I am looking for. Essentially I feel like Ford could have doone a better job giving the little 281 some more umff. I know being a truck she is geared to make torque, but even so this motor doesnt get the torque as low in the RPM range as I would like to see.
As for paying some one to di the rear end.......I have rebuilt several motors, done all sorts of engine maintenance brakes, and suspension work as well. I have not endeavored to work with the transmission side of things, however I would like to learn. I am really good with my hands being a musician, carpenter and network engineer. These are the things I amke money doing. If you have changed out a rear end before can you (or anyone else reading) let me mnow what I should expect to encounter in the way of dismantling the rear end. Some special tips?
I am not interested in having a race truck, but I do want to make more power. I am not iterested in an engine swap or buying something else. Who wants a car note right? I am looking for the most efficient and effective bolt on modifications. I have:
K&N drop in filter
Hypertech III programmer running 87 tune
JBA 3.5" Cat back Side Exhaust
4 new Cats

I would like to do:
Underdrive Pulleys
Troyer Tune
E-Fans (possibly, seems like they may not be worth the investment if they dont last)
Rear End
New Tranny or Tranny rebuild

To All in this post:
I am going with 3.73 instead of the original 4.10 configuration. I plan to have the parts ordered when I get back from a business trip next week.

Thanks for the great information and I look forward to your replies.

 

The best tip I can give you is: pay a pro who has done them before & has the special tools to set up the gears. I've built a few vehicles, and I'm barely good enough to set up gears for myself, but I haven't bought all the tools yet. Read these:

http://www.differentials.com/install.html
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...And-Pinion.pdf
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/...y/2742/12884-4

 

I had yet to look at the Haynes Manual (which aint that great to begin with) and after going through the first article....I am a beliver in haveing the right tool s and looks to me that there is a bit more than just swapping out gears involved........
Thanks again Steve!

 

I think 3.73s are a good choice.

But to add to the discussion, a lot of us on this site run 4.10s on street tires and really love the performance improvement...with no perceptible change in MPG, even on the highway.

 

I second the choice to go with 4.10s. I have 35" tires and run 4.56. A lower gear (higher numerically) will reduce the strain on your transmission and almost always give more consistent mpg because the motor is not straining. You will also have much better acceleration and not drop out of overdrive on the highway. Don't think that higher rpm means lower mpg.

 

I run my tires a little oversize on the factory 16"'s rims. 265/70's. FOr anyone looking for good street tires, the Yokohama Geolander HT/S are the BEST tires I have ever had on a truck. I ***** you not. yOU will be more than happy with this tremendous tire.
Sooooooooooooooooooooo
Im thinking about 4.10's again. What can I expect "Seat of the pants" wise going from the 3.08 to the 4.10's?

 

Well, your pants will be about $1K lighter, so you'll be faster!

 

Oh ya, they'll wake that thing right up. Do the 4.10's, you only live once. Like said before, changing gears is not for rookie's, they have to mesh just right etc, certain amount of this and that, just have someone do it, let them worry if it breaks or whines too much.

 

Some mechanic told me that you don't have to put synthetic back in as long as you clean it all out before putting in the regular gear oil.

He said that mixing the 2 is what is bad, not the gear oil or tolerances in the rear.

I don't know - I've read many things and heard stories about guys not putting the synthetic back in with a modifier and then burning up the rear end!

What say you?

 

Do NOT attempt this yourself man. I too am pretty damn good with my hands and mechanic work (did diesel work aka peterbilts etc for about 4 years) and also most of the work on my truck myself.

this isn't something you want to get into. BUT if you want to, i can give you some advice.

1. buy a good dial indicator
2. buy a good micrometer
3. a full truck lift is a MUST
4. make sure you are somewhere where you can leave your truck on the lift say a week or two
5. buy a good phone book with all the local shops in it so you can call them when you've lost all hope.

I tried to do it myself. I'm one of the people "why should i pay someone to do this when i can do it myself. it doesn't look that hard". i understand why they charge so much. even IF you get it put back together where you think its right, you still have to take the chance that within 200 miles that backlash gets bigger and throws your whole rearend out.

i STARTED an article about how to change the gears out on a 9.75", and it's on here somewhere, but i didn't finish it. Trust me, at least FIND someone that has done it before so they can help you through it.

after all this said:
I had stock 3.55's in my truck and i switched to 4.10's