1998 4.6L F-150 Problem that i can't figure out

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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Question 1998 4.6L F-150 Problem that i can't figure out

Ok I have tried many things I had the fuel system cleaned, intake and throttle body cleaned, changed the Plugs and wires, Fuel filter, and also the fuel pressure regulator, and also changed the MAF Sensor. I just can't seem to figure out this problem I have been having for almost a year ans a half now. The truck does not throw any codes at all. I took it to ford and they could find nothing.

Here it is when i drive the truck for a while especially when the weather is 75 degrees F or greater and let it sit for a few minutes and then go to start it back up the truck will turn over but take a good cranking to get started. The hotter it is the worse it gets and also the gas mileage has really sucked since this has started to happen. Can you tell me what sensors are involved with the starting of the truck when hot? Please help me i really like my truck and everything but this one problem is just ridiculous, and since it doesnt throw codes The Ford dealership is useless. Any help that woul put me in the right direction or get this fixed would be highly appreciated.

Also at WOT when it shifts into second it really just stays around a little under 3k and doesn't even move.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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From: Easton, Pa.
Long crank time to start, when hot.
A. Fuel.
B. Ignition.
C. Remote, but may be low voltage from charge system problems.
One of these has to be the cause.
Since it runs ok with no codes, otherwise; my first inclination is fuel pressure can't be built up quickly at cranking.
What to do? Set up a pressure gage on the rail to see what it's doing. Could be the pump, maybe? The cam position sensor is the major player in providing injection timimg. Is this sensor going open/hareness/plug etc?

Ignition! The crank sensor is the major player here. The engine has to crank a certein min amount before firing for two reasons. Pre-lube oil from the oil pump begins and finding the reference point on the toothed wheel before ignition begins, as well as providing a reference to all other PCM functions.
What you have is a situatuion where the dealer won't go far enough attempting to find the fault because they are profit driven and balance time against the outcome.
They have disgnostic equipment to look as a lot of operations and detect it at some point. If they won't go beyond normal codes then there useless.
Either you or some other mechanic has to persue the problem in depth or it never get solved. Otherwise you just throw money at it with results you got.

Old saying; If you do what you always did, you get what you always got!
Moral; do something different.

The last owner came on the board with a hesitation the dealer said they could not find. Did what I suggested and dealer solved the problem by investigation instead of trying to explain the problem away as normal dealer magic.
Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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If it is the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor how hard is it to replace those? Any need for special tools or special computers to do it?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 08:46 PM
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From: Easton, Pa.
The cam position sensor is a one bolt deal right on the front of the driver's side head.
The crank sensor needs the A/C compressor un-bolted to access the sensor mounting and removal.
Find the direction to go in first, as mentioned above.
 
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