I've built many motors but this is the first 2000+ ford motor that I have touched My question is Yanked the motor out and I see main bearing bolts and pins one row on the pass side and one row on the drivers side. Do I need something special to remover these pins first also do I remove pins then main screws or vice versa???

Thanks
Miko

 

OK every other motor that I've built with a little finess I have always been able to pull off the main caps but these guys seem like they do not want to move at all.

Any help?

 

What kind of motor you working on ? Exactly - Missing way to much info here..

 

Sorry its a 2001 5.4L Modular motor DOHC.

I have removed everything that I need to remove but I cannot remove the caps at all What Am I doing wrong?

 

I'm not sure - DOHC = Lincoln Motor - Cobra based .. Someone may chime in that can help yuh with one of those...

 

Its a E350 Super Duty. Everything I read said that these only came SOHC, but as I dismantled it its definitely DOHC, It is these annoying dowel pins which do not want to move nor do the main caps want to move???

Miko

 

The manual says 1. Remove and discard the cross-mounted main cap bolts
2. Remove the dowels 3. Remove and discard the main bearing bearing cap bolts.

Are you removing the 10 cross-mounted bolts (5 on each side) that go thru the side of block into the bearing caps? I'm looking at the book, I never plan on doing this myself LOL (a man's got to know his limitations)

DOHC 2 cams per head for total of 4 per engine....

 

HI!... On the 5.4 there are two bolts on each main cap. Then there are also two alignment dowels on each cap. The aligment dowels have a hole drilled through them horizontaly. The cap screws go through the block under the oil pan rail, and pass through the alignment dowels and into the main cap. It's called cross bolting the mains.

The main cap bolts and cap screws are TTY (Torque To Yeild) Throw them out. Get yourself some ARP studs.

 

 

So do I need to remove the dowels first ??

Ive already dismantled everything other than the dowel that are in place as well as the caps. What I need to know is how the heck did you remove the dowel pins and did you main bearing caps just lift off?

Thanks

 

heres how mine came out.

i used a half inch wrench to turn the dowel so the flat sides ran parallel with the cap, then again i used my wrench on the side with a lip as a heel bar. they should slide up with small amount of effort.

make sure your cross bolt through the side of the block has been removed tho.

the cap itself needed a lil more "blunt" effort. i found a smaller deadblow and gave it a few taps back and forth until it worked free.

hope this helps

 

That was it between neal saying crossbolts and you saying remove the bolts a light went off in my head I Never removed those bolts thanks guys I have some decent pics to post...

Has anyone ever heard of our cranks walking???

Thank
Miko

 

HI!... They can if you put enough power to them. Usually a well prepped block and forged crank/internals can handle well over 1000H.P on these 5.4's.

If you want to stiffen up the bottom end more then get yourself a D.S.S main girdle and ARP main studs. That's what I did.

 

hey neal... are those custom length studs with that girdle?

 

HI!... Yes. D.S.S supplies them with their girdle.