Originally Posted by dennisfranz

...and stay away from FRAM filters

Originally Posted by AFjetmech

Wow! Can you guys go at it over the free air vs nitrogen in the tires issue? Or is that in another thread? A little more for oil I can see. Paying for nitro in the tires if its not an aircraft or race car.......just plain money burning to me.

Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4

And what the hell is wrong with Fram? Kidding, but seriously, without prejudice, what is the beef with Fram? They've been around for well, many years anyways. I don't want to hear because my engine blew up, gotta blame something stories, just real fact. I change my oil regularly, use a few different oils and filters and never had a performance issue. The only thing I didn't like was some ends were just too big for my filter socket so removal was a bitch.

I still use Castrol GTX 5w-30 after 185000 km's and it's the same as at 40000 km's, oil is oil, only concern should be the weights needed.

Originally Posted by stopper

OIL ENGINEERS who get paid BIG BUCKS design today's latest oils to meet the latest specifications do a good job with the additive package and i'm puuuuuuuuuuurrty sure they are keeping the engine seals in mind. Keep in mind they want to design an oil that will do the job and not eat the seals as long as it's maintained. Hell, even if you do seep a little oil it will still the price savings could pay for the oil to replace it and you would STILL have money left over.

OIL= 2.89/qt X let's say 5 qts. = 14.45

"MAX LIFE OIL" i may be wrong but i think it's ~3.68 a quart
X 5 qts. = 18.40

difference = 3.95

it's obvious that a brand new engine isn't going to leak due regular dino oil for a while so let's say you get 10 changes before the seals start getting "old". that's 39.50 that you get to pocket. So now it starts to leak lets say a quart between changes. (I know, a little extreme but I can still prove my point). so with the money i SAVED from not spending extra money i can buy an extra quart to add between changes and come out ahead in the end.

3.95 - 2.89 = 1.06

so in the worst case I am saving 1.06 per oil change. Some engines will leak no matter what due to poor design. I have yet to see a reputable engine (not an engine like the 302 that are notorious for leaking out the rear main) leak oil with dino oil and see the same engine that was run with "better" oil NOT leak.
The 1.06 will add up over time.

If any of you feel you have 1.06 to just throw down the drain, tell me and i'll give you my address

Originally Posted by Peacemaker

I believe the Fram oil filters have a cardboard anti-drain back valve, and the Motorcraft oil filter's anti-drain back valve is made of a rubberized polymer. The cardboard valve has a higher chance of failure, and I sure wouldn't trust it on my engine. Who wants to take a chance having a dry start-up with a cardboard anti-drain back valve? Raise your hand...

Originally Posted by AFjetmech

I have always used Fram in my cars and trucks with no problems, but just out of curriosity, has anyone ever cut open both of these filters to see just what is inside them?

Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4

And what the hell is wrong with Fram? Kidding, but seriously, without prejudice, what is the beef with Fram?

Originally Posted by chester8420

I love the whole "high mileage" oil image. "It's formulated to provide extra protection for those worn out 70,000+mile trucks" Well if it protected it better, why not run it when the truck is new! Oh, and what do they make for the REAL high mileage engines? Like mine ....(204,000 miles)

Originally Posted by Peacemaker

It says it's safe to use in new and rebuilt engines, and will not void new car warranties right on the bottle. For the record, I've been using Max Life ATF in my tranny since the first fluid change. It's still shifting like it did when it was new. Smooth as butter.

Originally Posted by chester8420

I believe you! There's nothing special about "high mileage" oil. It's just oil.