4.6 LTR-1998 Exp.-Replacement Spark Plugs?
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4
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From: Pennsylvania
4.6 LTR-1998 Exp.-Replacement Spark Plugs?
I was looking for a resource. I want to replace the Spark Plugs on my 98 Exp (with the Romeo 4.6), but after hearing about the "plug-pop" I'am a little hesitant to do so. There are possibly 4-6 threads holding a typical spark plug down in these engines. I have heard that there is an aftermarket or dealer supplied item that would fortify the spark holes after removing the plugs, but I do not know what to use.
Have any posters here removed and replaced these plugs in these engines without stripping the threads?.
Have any posters here removed and replaced these plugs in these engines without stripping the threads?.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: Hollywood, CA
97 "W" code 4.6, changed the plugs WAY more than I ever should have (had a misfire issue, my fault, had it wired wrong, kept changing plugs like that was going to solve it), like over 10 times in about 2 months, never had any issue at all with popping a plug or stripping a thread. Just don't crossthread it, and don't overtighten it (always put mine about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past finger-tight, I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am wrong), and you'll be fine. 
Just for the record, though, a plug change in these engines is a real pain, look at the back two plugs on your engine, size up getting your socket, extension and ratchet back there to them, and then go for it, I'd start with the back plugs, the rest of them will be easy compared, lol. Also, just do one at a time, unlike me, who got drunk and took 2 wires off and then forgot which one went where, and caused all of my misfire issues that took me months and months to figure out.
Just for the record, though, a plug change in these engines is a real pain, look at the back two plugs on your engine, size up getting your socket, extension and ratchet back there to them, and then go for it, I'd start with the back plugs, the rest of them will be easy compared, lol. Also, just do one at a time, unlike me, who got drunk and took 2 wires off and then forgot which one went where, and caused all of my misfire issues that took me months and months to figure out.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,981
Likes: 1
From: mass.
start with back plugs is right lol. i pulled my front passenger one just to see if they were ever changed i have 130K on my 97 4.6. someone had put autolites in and they looked good. i was glad because it took me about 20 mins to get that one plug out. i was paranoid about crossthreading and all that blowout stuff.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
If you prep that makes it easy.
On the passenger side firewall you will see where all the wires seem to go to massive connectors. Just remove the bracket from the f/wall and release the wire couplings from the bracket. It will come apart in 2 pieces. Now all that wiring will drop down next to the engine... look at all that room!! amazing. Keep an eye on that small vacume tube that comes from the engine and runs behind the battery. That runs your a/c control and will come apart behind the battery and thus no A/C.
On the driver side remove the intake tube , the power sterring resoviour bracket and lay the bottle off to the side without undoing the hose's. Then remove the bracket on the side of the throttle body that holds those 2 vacume controls and lay it back out of the way then a couple of vacume lines from next to the Powerbrake booster and you're good to go.
make sure you have a good plug socket. tape it to the extension so that it won't pull apart when your trying to pull it off the plug ( the delectric grease helps here if you smear it on the insulator).
blow the dirt and rocks away from the top of the heads (landscaping blower works here). Pull the boots carefully and take an air hose and blow out the plug hole. break loose the plug and turn it a turn then blow out the hole again. You'll see why when you see how much chit is on the bottom of the plug and you certainly don't want that in the cylinder bore.
don't get to thick with the anti sieze because if it enters the bore it will go straight to the plug at fire up and foul the plug out.
when you go to reattach the injector rails make sure!!! all the o-rings are on. Take a finger tip of cooking oil and wet the o-ring on the top of the injector and watch how easily it pops up into the fuel rail which you press straight down onto all four injectors at the same time. NOT one at a time side ways.
reverse your take down, check through everything, reconnect battery and that sweet french fry smell is the cooking oil burning in the cylinder at fire up If you change the plug wires try to get them out all together with the retaining clips attached and the wires numbered to each cylinder and post on your four post coil. Makes it much easier. Just pull off one wire at a time and put the new one on the retainer and reinstall it all together. good luck
On the passenger side firewall you will see where all the wires seem to go to massive connectors. Just remove the bracket from the f/wall and release the wire couplings from the bracket. It will come apart in 2 pieces. Now all that wiring will drop down next to the engine... look at all that room!! amazing. Keep an eye on that small vacume tube that comes from the engine and runs behind the battery. That runs your a/c control and will come apart behind the battery and thus no A/C.
On the driver side remove the intake tube , the power sterring resoviour bracket and lay the bottle off to the side without undoing the hose's. Then remove the bracket on the side of the throttle body that holds those 2 vacume controls and lay it back out of the way then a couple of vacume lines from next to the Powerbrake booster and you're good to go.
make sure you have a good plug socket. tape it to the extension so that it won't pull apart when your trying to pull it off the plug ( the delectric grease helps here if you smear it on the insulator).
blow the dirt and rocks away from the top of the heads (landscaping blower works here). Pull the boots carefully and take an air hose and blow out the plug hole. break loose the plug and turn it a turn then blow out the hole again. You'll see why when you see how much chit is on the bottom of the plug and you certainly don't want that in the cylinder bore.
don't get to thick with the anti sieze because if it enters the bore it will go straight to the plug at fire up and foul the plug out.
when you go to reattach the injector rails make sure!!! all the o-rings are on. Take a finger tip of cooking oil and wet the o-ring on the top of the injector and watch how easily it pops up into the fuel rail which you press straight down onto all four injectors at the same time. NOT one at a time side ways.
reverse your take down, check through everything, reconnect battery and that sweet french fry smell is the cooking oil burning in the cylinder at fire up If you change the plug wires try to get them out all together with the retaining clips attached and the wires numbered to each cylinder and post on your four post coil. Makes it much easier. Just pull off one wire at a time and put the new one on the retainer and reinstall it all together. good luck