what is wrong here?
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
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From: Wolverine Lake, MI
what is wrong here?
89 F150, 302, just started running terrible again. I had a previous problem I
posted here and it turned out to be spark plug wires.
Now, last Saturday I started it up and it began running real rough. Began backfiring or just loud pops under the hood. Feels likes it missing and has very little power. Not what it should have anyway. I drove it anyway. (had to) I heard what sounded like pre ignition. It idles fine i think. Just under throttle it has a problem. I thought it might be timing but why all of a sudden did it just start this. ( by the way, my distributor is seized in place, not able to budge after repeated attempts ) This truck does not have fuel injection. It has an MSD distributor, MSD spark controller, Edelbrock intake and carb, headers, new MSD sparkplug wires, newer plugs, and not much else. It only has 3 vaccum lines, all intact and hooked up. I just don't know. Please HELP.
posted here and it turned out to be spark plug wires.
Now, last Saturday I started it up and it began running real rough. Began backfiring or just loud pops under the hood. Feels likes it missing and has very little power. Not what it should have anyway. I drove it anyway. (had to) I heard what sounded like pre ignition. It idles fine i think. Just under throttle it has a problem. I thought it might be timing but why all of a sudden did it just start this. ( by the way, my distributor is seized in place, not able to budge after repeated attempts ) This truck does not have fuel injection. It has an MSD distributor, MSD spark controller, Edelbrock intake and carb, headers, new MSD sparkplug wires, newer plugs, and not much else. It only has 3 vaccum lines, all intact and hooked up. I just don't know. Please HELP.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 39
From: Easton, Pa.
All your ignition is MSD.
The controller or another of it's hardware is about what you have to deal with.
MSD is not bullit proof equipment.
To get the dist out, on a warmed engine, try using a can of cold spray (chiller) on the dist housing at the block.
Maybe it will shrink enough to lossen up and pull out.
Once you get it out, do some trimming of the dist to increase the clearence.
Good luck.
The controller or another of it's hardware is about what you have to deal with.
MSD is not bullit proof equipment.
To get the dist out, on a warmed engine, try using a can of cold spray (chiller) on the dist housing at the block.
Maybe it will shrink enough to lossen up and pull out.
Once you get it out, do some trimming of the dist to increase the clearence.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Wolverine Lake, MI
Yes it's all MSD. As for the chiller. Like what? I don't think I know of what you are refering to. Something the you can spray that comes out of the can cold?
I am no mechanic by any means so please be patient. I have some mechanical ability but don't understand everything.
Also I have a WEBER carb, Not an Edelbrock like I thought. It's shiney aluminum, that's all I have seen i guess. And the Edelbrock name all over everywhere else.
I am no mechanic by any means so please be patient. I have some mechanical ability but don't understand everything.
Also I have a WEBER carb, Not an Edelbrock like I thought. It's shiney aluminum, that's all I have seen i guess. And the Edelbrock name all over everywhere else.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Wolverine Lake, MI
please help me
I have no idea what is wrong. Still can't get the distributor out. Sprayed it with PB Blaster. Beat on the housing with a pry bar and hammer. Got it to operating temp and tried the same. Don't have enough room to get to it with any kind of wrench. It is backfiring through the carb. My popping noises I was hearing. Any throtle brings this on. Doesn't happen at idle. Edelbrock carb with weber stamped on the side. I called MSD and they told me they have never heard of this happening. Only if the engine overheated causing the distributor housing to swell welding it to the block. Am I going to have to destroy this to get it out? Basicly pull everything off the front of the motor so I can get some kind of wrench on this and twist the heck out of it?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 39
From: Easton, Pa.
Basicly you are trying to set up a set of conditions using temperature control where the block hole goes large with engine heat and chilling the alum dist housing only at the block surface so it shrinks.
Once you chill it you have to be quick so it doean't warm up again and enlarge back.
A few attempts at this should brake the bond between the surfaces.
Sometimes when a bolt is bonded into alum from corrosion, the oppisite will work by putting a lot of heat on the bolt head to the point of going a dull red then let it cool. The idea behind this is to swell the bolt in the hole and break the bond.
Alway work slowly on a bolt. Once it becomes loose but not back out, work it by alternately tighten and loosen each time trying to back it out a little farther, without breaking the bolt.
Chiller is freeze spray in a can. Radio Shack use to carry it.
To use heat on anything small, use a small flame tip on a torch so you don't ruion everything around the areas and use a metal sheet to shield where needed.
These tricks are standard everyday operation when working on things.
Don't always work but does a high percentage of the time and saves a lot of hassle and expense.
By the way, your not the first one to have a stuck dist. in the hole.
It is standard practice to use heat where roller bearing are a shrink fit onto it's location.
I just put rear carrier bearings on by heating the bearings in an over to about 175°f . The bore goes larger and drops right onto the carrier. Did the same with the inner pinion bearing. This saves pressing and any cost with it.
Good luck. These are some of the tricks I use all the time.
Once you chill it you have to be quick so it doean't warm up again and enlarge back.
A few attempts at this should brake the bond between the surfaces.
Sometimes when a bolt is bonded into alum from corrosion, the oppisite will work by putting a lot of heat on the bolt head to the point of going a dull red then let it cool. The idea behind this is to swell the bolt in the hole and break the bond.
Alway work slowly on a bolt. Once it becomes loose but not back out, work it by alternately tighten and loosen each time trying to back it out a little farther, without breaking the bolt.
Chiller is freeze spray in a can. Radio Shack use to carry it.
To use heat on anything small, use a small flame tip on a torch so you don't ruion everything around the areas and use a metal sheet to shield where needed.
These tricks are standard everyday operation when working on things.
Don't always work but does a high percentage of the time and saves a lot of hassle and expense.
By the way, your not the first one to have a stuck dist. in the hole.
It is standard practice to use heat where roller bearing are a shrink fit onto it's location.
I just put rear carrier bearings on by heating the bearings in an over to about 175°f . The bore goes larger and drops right onto the carrier. Did the same with the inner pinion bearing. This saves pressing and any cost with it.
Good luck. These are some of the tricks I use all the time.