302 dead cylinder
msd distributors
Thanks for the link. I have read there suggestions on timing adjustments. There is a mechanical advance in this distributor that works with weight and springs. Are you suggesting the max initial timing? Or the max out point of where it advances to. I believe it is set at 21 degrees. I will have to do a physical check to be sure. Is that not enough. I have noticed a little spark knock when I am running mid-grade fuel but not on premium. I sure would like to be able to run regular. I have now officially confused myself.
Base timing is set at idle (say) 10 degrees BTDC on the #1 plug with no advance timing added. Now when the engine is rev up (higher rpm's) you need more advance timing cause the piston will be half way down the hole before the combustion process starts (meaning less power) if timing is not advanced.
Lets say max timing is 36 degrees at speed, take away 10 degrees cause thats your base timing you set just by turning the distributor assy in place and locking it down. So your advance timing is only 26 degree's. So you adjust the plate to only allow a maxium of 26 degrees. Add your base and advance together and it should equal a total of 36 degrees. MSD has a slotted tool that you install and adjust how far the weights will open thus changing your advance timing. The more the weights are allow to open the more advance timing you will have.
Now if it pings at speed you just bump the 26 degrees to 24 degress and see if the ping goes away. So now max timing is 34 degrees.
Now if your base timing is set at 21 degrees and your advance timing is 26 degree's that give's you 47 degrees of max timing and the motor should ping if not running some very hi octane fuel.
Check your base timing and add it to the amount of timing that you adjusted inside the distributor say 21 degrees, maybe your base timing is set to high causing the pinging condition.
Hope this make sence
Lets say max timing is 36 degrees at speed, take away 10 degrees cause thats your base timing you set just by turning the distributor assy in place and locking it down. So your advance timing is only 26 degree's. So you adjust the plate to only allow a maxium of 26 degrees. Add your base and advance together and it should equal a total of 36 degrees. MSD has a slotted tool that you install and adjust how far the weights will open thus changing your advance timing. The more the weights are allow to open the more advance timing you will have.
Now if it pings at speed you just bump the 26 degrees to 24 degress and see if the ping goes away. So now max timing is 34 degrees.
Now if your base timing is set at 21 degrees and your advance timing is 26 degree's that give's you 47 degrees of max timing and the motor should ping if not running some very hi octane fuel.
Check your base timing and add it to the amount of timing that you adjusted inside the distributor say 21 degrees, maybe your base timing is set to high causing the pinging condition.
Hope this make sence
Last edited by RacingJake; Feb 2, 2007 at 05:51 PM.
hmmm
ok. It probably will make more sense when I have it in front of me. It is about 10 degrees outside and the truck doesn't fit in my garage. I will be checking this soon. Gotta build a tent over the truck to put my heater in to make it bareable to work. try it tomorrow.
explitive, explitive, explitive
Ok, Strike one...
No timing indicator to reference the timing mark. This truck has what looks like a crank positioning sensor bracket where the indicator should be. I have know idea how timing was set by the original owner who installed this engine. Unless it was by ear?
Strike two...
I tried to move the distributor anyway but it will not budge. It seems to have frozen, chemically bonded, fused to the intake manifold or where ever. Point is, not moving. I srayed it with PB Blaster in hopes it will work its way in there and free it up. I figured if I tried with tools or brute force it will break something. Oh yeah, I did loosen the clamp holding it down. Then the not moving began.
The truck runs pretty well again. I don't know how far to go with this. Having it tuned correctly would be great. How far I have to go and how much I spend to do it will be what I have to decide.
No timing indicator to reference the timing mark. This truck has what looks like a crank positioning sensor bracket where the indicator should be. I have know idea how timing was set by the original owner who installed this engine. Unless it was by ear?
Strike two...
I tried to move the distributor anyway but it will not budge. It seems to have frozen, chemically bonded, fused to the intake manifold or where ever. Point is, not moving. I srayed it with PB Blaster in hopes it will work its way in there and free it up. I figured if I tried with tools or brute force it will break something. Oh yeah, I did loosen the clamp holding it down. Then the not moving began.
The truck runs pretty well again. I don't know how far to go with this. Having it tuned correctly would be great. How far I have to go and how much I spend to do it will be what I have to decide.
The timing marks are stamped into that bracket, and there's a thin line (NOT the big notch) stamped into the edge of the harmonic balancer. This one has a CPS, but yours doesn't. The timing pointer is in the same place, though.

Yes, PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) should free up the distributor. You might totally remove the clamp & bolt, and then drive around with the timing light & tools in the truck. The heat & vibration of driving might free it up, and when the truck stalls & dies, you'll know to reinstall the clamp, set the time, & drive on. Or you can use a wrench on the base of the distributor RIGHT above the clamp ring to try to break it free. Don't twist the plastic bowl.
Yes, PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) should free up the distributor. You might totally remove the clamp & bolt, and then drive around with the timing light & tools in the truck. The heat & vibration of driving might free it up, and when the truck stalls & dies, you'll know to reinstall the clamp, set the time, & drive on. Or you can use a wrench on the base of the distributor RIGHT above the clamp ring to try to break it free. Don't twist the plastic bowl.
Last edited by Steve83; Feb 4, 2007 at 01:29 AM.
hope
Alright there is hope again. I can't get anything tool wise to grab that base of the distributor, so i will use the drive around method. Plus then I won't be the one physically breaking it. I gotta get down in there and clean that tab. I had a pretty bright light on it last night and couldn't identify anything that looked like markings. Yes that is the same bracket, thank you for the picture. I wil let you know how it goes. Thanks again.



