Yes I did do a search for "replace gas/fuel filter" and found many interesting articles but I am still uncertain as to the steps I need to take to replace my fuel filter.

Questions:
1) Do I have to release the gas pressure, and if so where is the shrader valve located on my truck? (pics with an arrow pointing to it would be great)
2) Do I have to remove the gas cap before replacing the fuel filter?
Will I need anything else to remove the filter other than the fuel replacement tool?
3) Is there anything else I missed?

NOTE: I am planning on buying a motorcraft replacement fuel filter. (Alteast I got this right)

thanks fellas...............

 

The schrader valve is on your fuel rail, a little valve, hard to describe, but in this case, not necessary to mess with. You only need a new filter and the white line seperator (plastic) tool that fits over the steel line and pops the seal. This is not easy for most so be patient. There is nothing else that needs to be done, just a little fuel will spill out so keep the filter as sraight as you can. Don't even touch the tank filler cap or nothing.

 

Don't waste time searching for it... Pop the hood, open the fuse box, and pull the fuse for the fuel pump. Stick the key in the ignition and crank the engine for 3 seconds. You're done. Change away!

-Joe

 

An additional question:
What size of fuel replacement tool should I be using?
(2002 F150 supercrew)

 

An additional question:
What size of fuel replacement tool should I be using?
(2002 F150 supercrew)

 

it uses two different sizes and i don't remember but most auto part stores sells the set for $10.

Like mentioned, the white plastic ones work best.

 

Think it is the 2 smallest ones you see in the picture from lees99f150

 

I am also about to replace my filter for the first time, so will be picking up a set of the white plastic disconnects. Exactly how do they work? I'm assuming that they slip over the line and you push against them to "pop" the seal of the filter/line??? Any guidance appreciated. I will be changing this weekend. Thanks.

 

The tool opens up and goes around the smaller, male part of the fuel line connection, with the tapered end pointing at the larger female end. The male end is flaired (has a small flange on its end), and is held in place by a spring that resides inside the expanded portion of the female end. The spring looks like a retractable ball point pen spring that has been connected at the ends to make a circle. What you are doing with the tool is using its tapered end to spread that spring so it will release the flange on the end of the smaller line. To do this, you slide the tool all the way in to the opening and hold it in place while you pull the two lines apart. Hopefully, this will all make more sense when you are actually looking at the connection. Caution: Be sure to de-pressurize the system before you start - it doesn't matter which method you use (schrader valve, or running with the pump disconnected), but be sure to remove the 39 lbs. per sq.in. pressure from the line. Gasolene really burns your eyes when it is sprayed in to them (don't ask me how I know this).

Good luck.

 

Exactly the info I needed. Thanks for the details. I will definitely cycle pump/depressurize beforehand!

 

I've always found the little plastic rings to be a pita. Shoot even the 10 buck X shaped deal don't always get it, but since I do enough of the filters the snap on set was worth it.

Call me a rebel for disaster, but I've never had to depressure the system. Quick tip is to slip the plastic shipping cap on the old filter from the new filter to keep it from draining all over.

Adrianspeeder

 

Went to the local parts place today and bought a tool for removing the filter. They didn't have the white plastic ones, so I got the "x" shaped one. Got home to read in my manual as to which fuse to pull to disconnect the fuel pump. I must be missing it, but I can't find mention of it on any fuse diagram/list (2005 5.4). Any help out there? I did read about the fuel pump shutoff switch (where and how to reset). Thanks.

 

If you can get to the cutoff switch, tap it with a screw driver handle or small hammer till it pops out - Then run the engine till it stops. Just remember to reset it after you are finished. BTW, nine times out of ten, you won't have any pressure left in the system after it sets for a half hour or so. I'm just a little paranoid, because I had the misfortune to have to change out a clogged filter on my old Mk VII. The line was pressurized to the filter, the check valve in the fuel pump wouldn't let it discharge, and the car wouldn't run (no fuel pressure past the filter), so I had to release the line under pressure. I sprayed down half the block, along with myself.

 

Buddies came over to do there plugs last fall 2004 & 2005 supercrew's. Watched a hockey game re-run and a few pop's to let the trucks cool down a bit. While they worked on the plugs I did the filters without a prob - a little gas spilage , but not bad. I used this tool -

The blue one works the best..

 

On another occasion, I just did a friends a couple months ago with a 2001- now that was a MF!!! I couldn't get that thing loose no matter what I tried lol. Once I finally got cheesed off enough just to rip it out of there , it still took 10 darn minutes in the vise to break that clamp free.. Mannn , that thing made me mad lol..

It was most likely due to the fact he used a Fram filter on the last change out..

Freakin Thing!!