Engine "ticking"

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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 11:09 AM
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From: BAY MINETTE, AL
Question Engine "ticking"

I have a '97 F250 4X4 with a 5.4. The motor makes a ticking or chirping noise at start up and continues to make this noise untill the engine idles down. Then it for the most part goes away. After it runs for a couple of minutes, it stops making this noise altogether. It seems to be coming from the back part of the engine near the bottom, and more to the passenger side. I have been told that this could be a couple of things, maybe a rod bearing, or maybe just a crudded up pickup screen in the oil pan. I have also heard or read about a couple of different ways that this problem could be soved if it is not a bearing. One in particular was to run seafoam in the crankcase shortly before an oil change. This problem is new to me. I did just have the carbon cleaned out of the throttle body and intake ports, as well as the EGR system repaired. The truck was already making this noise though. The engine has 152000, miles on it and otherwise seems to run great. Any thoughts on this.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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From: Texass
It "could" be a lot of things. It could be the type of oil filter you're using, one of the cam followers (most likely, and nothing to worry about), the weight of oil you're using, and a dozen other things. I doubt it's a rod or main bearing though, that wouldn't go away in a few seconds after idle-down. If it's coming from the top end (cam area), it will tick about as fast as the fastest you can tap your finger. If it's from the bottom end (rods, mains) it will sound about twice that fast.


What does your oil pressure gauge show during this time?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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From: BAY MINETTE, AL
Originally Posted by tritonpwr
It "could" be a lot of things. It could be the type of oil filter you're using, one of the cam followers (most likely, and nothing to worry about), the weight of oil you're using, and a dozen other things. I doubt it's a rod or main bearing though, that wouldn't go away in a few seconds after idle-down. If it's coming from the top end (cam area), it will tick about as fast as the fastest you can tap your finger. If it's from the bottom end (rods, mains) it will sound about twice that fast.


What does your oil pressure gauge show during this time?

I just have the standard pressure gauge, and it is reading between 1/2 and 2/3 scale. I haven't been long changed the oil and went to Synthetic with a Fram filter. It's 10-30, but it was already making this sound. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 11:57 PM
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From: Texass
Originally Posted by TIDE 250
I just have the standard pressure gauge, and it is reading between 1/2 and 2/3 scale. I haven't been long changed the oil and went to Synthetic with a Fram filter. It's 10-30, but it was already making this sound. Thanks.
Fram eh? Well that could be part of your problem, or your whole problem. The back-flow prevention valve that keeps the oil from draining back into the pan on a Fram filter is utterly useless. Your motor could be starting dry and you might be hearing regular lifter rattle from dry hydraulic lifters. Try a Motorcraft filter on the next oil change, its valve is about the best there is (Mobil 1's are good too). Also, you should be using 5w-20 or 5w-30 at the most. Heavier weight oils cause top end noise with these SOHC motors (DOHC's are much worse) and it's a lot worse on start-up. Don't put 10-30 in it just because that's what you have laying on the shelf or because that's what you used to run in the good old days. Ford specifies oil weights for a reason. You put 10-30 in a loose old Camaro, not a Ford mod motor. If you build your motor loose as a goose and strap a huffer on it, go with a 50w race oil, but keep to the 5w-20 with your truck.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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I had that anoying chirping noise on startup with my 5.4L comming from the area you describe - My CATS did that - heres a pic from the TSB and a pic my CAT after I fixed it with band clamps.




 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tritonpwr
What does your oil pressure gauge show during this time?
The stock oil pressure gauge is a fake. It can only show 0, or ~center scale any time the pressure is above 6psi.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
The stock oil pressure gauge is a fake. It can only show 0, or ~center scale any time the pressure is above 6psi.
Yeah, but if something's going on like he's blowing oil out of a rod bearing, the pressure will be flat-lined until it warms up a little. Then, a little farther on down the road, it won't hold pressure during idle at all. Then, if it's an automatic, he will have to start shifting 1,2,D (w/o OD) manually to keep the RPM's above 2000 at all times to keep pressure up, if it's not, forget about 5th. Then, well, no more motor. Ah, that reminds me, if it's a stick, it could be the throw-out talking a little.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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I doubt it would get better as it heats up, though.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
I doubt it would get better as it heats up, though.
Sure it can. Remember, oil viscosity varies inversely with temperature. So if you are loosing pressure when it's cold, when it warms up, and the oil thickens, the pressure can come up. The thickness the oil needs to be to do this depends solely on the amount of bypass the problem is creating. But this is exactly why a super loose motor can make 4 psi on 5w-20 and 40 on 50w. The oil gets out of the bearings by literally leaking out. A tight motor leaks less and has higher pressure with lower weight oil. A loose motor leaks faster and has lower pressure with lower weight oil and higher pressure with heavier oil. Because of the way multi-weight works, being thinner when it's cold and thicker when it's hot, you can definitely have a pressure problem that varies widely with temp.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tritonpwr
...when it warms up, and the oil thickens...
That doesn't make sense.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
That doesn't make sense.
Multi-weight oils made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains, effectivley increasing viscosity.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 06:17 AM
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From: BAY MINETTE, AL
Originally Posted by tritonpwr
Multi-weight oils made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains, effectivley increasing viscosity.

All of this info has been great. The ticking sound is the faster of the two as stated above(a couple of replys back). I will go back to the lower weight oil at the next change as well. What about adding the Seafoam before the oil change? I read an article about this, and that it cleans the sludge and crap out of your crank case. Some of the quotes that i read on this was good, some not so good. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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Take a peak thru your wheel wells and look at the exhaust manifold bolts... Particularly the rear ones.. Any of them missing??

Mine has a 'tick' to it on first start up, and will do it for about 30 seconds after you get going, then be quiet as a mouse.... I'm using M1 5w30 oil with a MC filter BTW.

I'm missing an exhaust manifold bolt on each side of the rear cylinders...

Still could be any of the above situations too... Just another thought.

Mitch
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MitchF150
Take a peak thru your wheel wells and look at the exhaust manifold bolts... Particularly the rear ones.. Any of them missing??

Mine has a 'tick' to it on first start up, and will do it for about 30 seconds after you get going, then be quiet as a mouse.... I'm using M1 5w30 oil with a MC filter BTW.

I'm missing an exhaust manifold bolt on each side of the rear cylinders...

Still could be any of the above situations too... Just another thought.

Mitch
Thats good advice too. I actually am having the same noise problem on startup with my 03 5.4 w/ 68,000 miles on it. Sometimes it makes noise on start up and sometimes it doesnt, after its been running for awhile or in drive the noise stops. On my old trailblazer, a bolt broke of in the manifold which caused almost the same noise, but that didnt stop after the car warmed up. Im hopeing and praying that its nothing big, I mean I still have the TEMP TAGS ON IT!!!!!! I bought it from the dealership used, so I am guessing that it has motorcraft oil 5-20w and filter, Im changing the oil next week n e ways, I guess we will find out. Its a one owner and tooken real good care of, so Im hopeing that its nothing with the engine! Im going to look into that band clamp for the cats too. Good thread and hopefully it turns out good! I'll let you guys know if I can figure it out!

Thanks,
Casey
 
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