Correct torque for sparkplugs
Correct torque for sparkplugs
OK guys, I've read 10, 11, and 14 foot pounds for sparkplugs, which one is it for a 02 5.4 motor. Don't tell me to check the book cause I don't have one
that's what you guys are for
that's what you guys are for
Originally Posted by RacingJake
OK guys, I've read 10, 11, and 14 foot pounds for sparkplugs, which one is it for a 02 5.4 motor. Don't tell me to check the book cause I don't have one
that's what you guys are for 
that's what you guys are for 
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
Personally, I think it's a good idea for everyone that buys one of these trucks (or any other FoMoCo vehicle with a modular engine) to right away, remove the spark plugs, check them, and apply some anti-seize to the threads, and then properly reinstall them so that you don't have these kinds of problems later on.
I just feel that it's always a good idea to pull the plugs on any Ford modular engine very soon after buying the vehicle (especially these 3-valve motors), put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, and then *properly* re-install the plugs with the correct amount of torque/tightness. And since you can't reasonably get a torque wrench on every one, the way we do it is to take the spark plug socket & extension and tighten the spark plug as tight as we can get it BY HAND - WITHOUT the ratchet - and then connect the ratchet and give it 1/8th additional turn. That does the trick for these aluminum cylinder head modular motors, and won't over-tighten them.
Remember, from the factory these spark plugs are generally installed by robots, and in a lot of cases do get over-tightened - which is precisely why the half-thread cylinder heads are more prone to spit out spark plugs, though the 2003 & up full-thread heads have done it once in a while, too. They are over-tightened, either from the factory or form someone replacing them later on (happens more in Lightnings that get lots of mods simply because they tend to get more spark plug changes), and then over time, with enough thermal expansion & contraction cycles from heating & cooling, the threads distort, then the plug loosens up, and then it spits the plug out. I think we'll see a LOT less of that on 3-valve motors, of course, this happens mostly in 2002 & earlier modular motors with the half-thread (4 threads instead of 8) plug bore design.
... put a dab of anti-seize on the threads (because you have aluminum cylinder heads), and then reinstall them as I described above, and you should be OK.
I just feel that it's always a good idea to pull the plugs on any Ford modular engine very soon after buying the vehicle (especially these 3-valve motors), put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, and then *properly* re-install the plugs with the correct amount of torque/tightness. And since you can't reasonably get a torque wrench on every one, the way we do it is to take the spark plug socket & extension and tighten the spark plug as tight as we can get it BY HAND - WITHOUT the ratchet - and then connect the ratchet and give it 1/8th additional turn. That does the trick for these aluminum cylinder head modular motors, and won't over-tighten them.
Remember, from the factory these spark plugs are generally installed by robots, and in a lot of cases do get over-tightened - which is precisely why the half-thread cylinder heads are more prone to spit out spark plugs, though the 2003 & up full-thread heads have done it once in a while, too. They are over-tightened, either from the factory or form someone replacing them later on (happens more in Lightnings that get lots of mods simply because they tend to get more spark plug changes), and then over time, with enough thermal expansion & contraction cycles from heating & cooling, the threads distort, then the plug loosens up, and then it spits the plug out. I think we'll see a LOT less of that on 3-valve motors, of course, this happens mostly in 2002 & earlier modular motors with the half-thread (4 threads instead of 8) plug bore design.
... put a dab of anti-seize on the threads (because you have aluminum cylinder heads), and then reinstall them as I described above, and you should be OK.

Cheers
Bubba
snug it then 1/4 turn... DONT use anti seize or the plug will blow out. its like greasing a bolt... yeh it goes in eas but it also comes out easy on its own eventually.. and with plugs once its loose it will fire out of there... u dont need anti seize... if ur plugs are corroding u need to change them anyways.
Originally Posted by Faster150
snug it then 1/4 turn... DONT use anti seize or the plug will blow out. its like greasing a bolt... yeh it goes in eas but it also comes out easy on its own eventually.. and with plugs once its loose it will fire out of there... u dont need anti seize... if ur plugs are corroding u need to change them anyways.
If one were to choose between Mike Troyer's advice and yours, it would simply be NO contest. Having said that, if anyone persists in following your 'advice', they're peckered.
A waste of this planet's air, electrons, and your daddy's tuition money.
Good grief.
I don't use anti seize, and I "torque" 'em by running the plug down 'till it bottoms out, and going another 1/8 turn or so.
I changed the plugs in my '97 5.4 liter and used anti seize and the same torque method as I described above. 40Kish miles later, #3 popped out. I stopped using anti seize on all of them I do at work, no problems thus far with hundreds of plugs installed. YMMV.
I changed the plugs in my '97 5.4 liter and used anti seize and the same torque method as I described above. 40Kish miles later, #3 popped out. I stopped using anti seize on all of them I do at work, no problems thus far with hundreds of plugs installed. YMMV.
Originally Posted by Quintin
I don't use anti seize, and I "torque" 'em by running the plug down 'till it bottoms out, and going another 1/8 turn or so.
I changed the plugs in my '97 5.4 liter and used anti seize and the same torque method as I described above. 40Kish miles later, #3 popped out. I stopped using anti seize on all of them I do at work, no problems thus far with hundreds of plugs installed. YMMV.
I changed the plugs in my '97 5.4 liter and used anti seize and the same torque method as I described above. 40Kish miles later, #3 popped out. I stopped using anti seize on all of them I do at work, no problems thus far with hundreds of plugs installed. YMMV.
I knew that Ford recommends no anti-sieze on the 5.4 3V reinstalls, but on the previous years I was told it was needed.
I did that (anti-sieze) on my previous truck, and never had a problem.
This whole anti-sieze issue is confusing, as the procedure is designed to prevent seizure between two dissimilar metals. Some spark plug manufacturers even specify it's use for their plugs ( e.g. Denso).
What's the story from Ford on this? I'd like to know their rationale.
Thanks
Cheers
Bubba
Thanks guys
I do use anti seize on my Vic Jr heads thats in my Falcon to keep the two from bonding together.
I did do the rightside of the engine last night with anti seize and will do the left later on today. No ones seem to like a standard torque valve, I've came across 8 up to 15 ft-lbs. So I picked 14 on my bar torque wrench figuring it's been used for years and may be off a pound or two at the low end.
I sort of wish a plug would blow cause I like to play around with that time -sert thingy.
I do use anti seize on my Vic Jr heads thats in my Falcon to keep the two from bonding together.
I did do the rightside of the engine last night with anti seize and will do the left later on today. No ones seem to like a standard torque valve, I've came across 8 up to 15 ft-lbs. So I picked 14 on my bar torque wrench figuring it's been used for years and may be off a pound or two at the low end.
I sort of wish a plug would blow cause I like to play around with that time -sert thingy.
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi Quintin.
I knew that Ford recommends no anti-sieze on the 5.4 3V reinstalls, but on the previous years I was told it was needed.
I did that (anti-sieze) on my previous truck, and never had a problem.
This whole anti-sieze issue is confusing, as the procedure is designed to prevent seizure between two dissimilar metals. Some spark plug manufacturers even specify it's use for their plugs ( e.g. Denso).
What's the story from Ford on this? I'd like to know their rationale.
Thanks
Cheers
Bubba
I knew that Ford recommends no anti-sieze on the 5.4 3V reinstalls, but on the previous years I was told it was needed.
I did that (anti-sieze) on my previous truck, and never had a problem.
This whole anti-sieze issue is confusing, as the procedure is designed to prevent seizure between two dissimilar metals. Some spark plug manufacturers even specify it's use for their plugs ( e.g. Denso).
What's the story from Ford on this? I'd like to know their rationale.
Thanks
Cheers
Bubba
Originally Posted by Quintin
I think Ford's official stance is no on anti seize, but I can't find any official documentation about it. On the 3V, they do recommend a dab of anti seize on the threads and on the insert portion of the plug that goes into the cylinder head.
This is an excerpt from the removal TSB for the 3V's ( caps aren't mine):
"NOTE: ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N-m)."
Wow. Am I the only one in this predicament? I'm still leaning towards it's use. I see more advice on using anti-sieze than not....
Thanks for the help, Quintin ... always appreciated
[PS - BTW, Jake the above torque rating is for the 3V plug only - the rating you need is 7-15 ft-lbs for an aluminum head, 14mm tapered seat - this from Denso's website.]
Cheers
Bubba
Last edited by MGDfan; Oct 26, 2006 at 01:23 PM.
yah i wouldnt use anti sieze on your plugs. If your threads are all corroded and messed up, then clean them out. You want the plugs to sieze up to a certain extent. that way they dont pop out of the block.
-Patrick
-Patrick
Originally Posted by Quintin
I don't use anti seize, and I "torque" 'em by running the plug down 'till it bottoms out, and going another 1/8 turn or so.
I changed the plugs in my '97 5.4 liter and used anti seize and the same torque method as I described above. 40Kish miles later, #3 popped out. I stopped using anti seize on all of them I do at work, no problems thus far with hundreds of plugs installed. YMMV.
I changed the plugs in my '97 5.4 liter and used anti seize and the same torque method as I described above. 40Kish miles later, #3 popped out. I stopped using anti seize on all of them I do at work, no problems thus far with hundreds of plugs installed. YMMV.
my point exactly...
Originally Posted by MGDfan
As usual, peabrain, you are full of chit.
If one were to choose between Mike Troyer's advice and yours, it would simply be NO contest. Having said that, if anyone persists in following your 'advice', they're peckered.
A waste of this planet's air, electrons, and your daddy's tuition money.
Good grief.
If one were to choose between Mike Troyer's advice and yours, it would simply be NO contest. Having said that, if anyone persists in following your 'advice', they're peckered.
A waste of this planet's air, electrons, and your daddy's tuition money.
Good grief.

who said im going to college? more less could afford it? i make slightly more than my dad does... so yeh ur ignorant comments are pointless.. since u just prove this one wrong 3 posts down.. also.. just because mike troyer sponsors this site.. does not make him the oracle of knowledge... most of the time he is just trying to sell a product.. i am almost 100% sure that if he was selling the "juice box's" he would tell everyone how they work and they are worth buying.. even thouh his markup would be 40-50 bucks.. as i remember he sold throttle body spacers at one time to
Last edited by Faster150; Oct 26, 2006 at 01:26 PM.
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
and quintin knows his stuff. He actually works on these trucks, not a tuner like Mike, but a (i believe) master certified technician at a ford dealship.
-Patrick
-Patrick
yeh my dad was only master certified for ford for 23 years.. both in diesel gasoline and transmission master certified.. hes also master ceritified with chrysler jeep, mercedez, and mazda. but he got out of that dieing industry for a salary and for a management position.
I'm retired MSGT with 24 years in AGE equipment, did it all from nonpowered to powered equipment. Turbins, generators, heaters, AC, air compressors. gas/diesels, hydraulic's, munitions trailers both weapons and conventional, freq convertors, etc. If it's on the flightline I work it. The Jack of all trades or should I say the Jake.
Now I don't do crap, I let the wife work and i go to the track
Somebody has to bring home the beer money
Now I don't do crap, I let the wife work and i go to the track
Somebody has to bring home the beer money




