I bought a 1993 F150 last week from a friend, yesterday when at a stop light the engine surged and then idled down, but the check engine light came on.
I finished my errands and while driving home I noticed a lack of power, with the throttle floored it barely gained speed, my first thought was that the converter was plugged up.
This morning I was going to get a new converter and the truck won't start, it sounds like it wants to start at the very first but then just cranks over at a good cranking speed but no sign of life.
There is good spark at the coil, I tried to ground the STI and get the codes but the check engine light stays on, no flashing.
The front or rear fuel pump stay running constantly with the switch in the on position, they do not cut off after one second.
I bought a new fuel filter but have not installed it yet, the boy at AutoZone said no tool was required to remove the filter but I think he is wrong, I can't figure out how to remove the lines.
Help, please.

 

Howdy and welcome!

88 for sure, or 90ish was the last year for toolless removal of the filter. Your 93 does need a line tool. The ten dollar X shaped one is a better bet than the cheapo ring shaped ones.

Read through www.fordfuelinjection.com to do a proper code pull.

Adrianspeeder

 

Thanks for the reply, I will get the fuel line tool tomorrow.
I went to fordfuelinjection.com already, but had no luck in getting the codes out.

 

A no start condition, accompanied by a constant running fuel pump when the key is in the Run position, and the inability to retrieve any codes, means one thing; Bad ECM.

 

Whats a ECM

 

Computer.

 

The engine will now start, I did nothing to change anything.
Bought a code reader, at first was getting all 1's, now cannot pull codes (light stays on all the time) but engine runs (poorly).
I strongly suspect the computer but want to know for sure before spending the money.
BTW, where is the computer hidden on this truck (5.0 liter engine)?

 

What do you do with your (Windows) pc when no amount of mouse clicking or keyboard pounding helps? Reboot, cycle power, etc.

I don't see that you've reset the ECM by removing the positive batt cable and letting it sit for awhile...

 

Every Ford I've ever seen with your exact symptoms had a bad ECM. Still, most rebuilders will check yours first to verify it's bad.

Yours should be behind the e-brake assembly. The 60 pin connector will be under your power booster (brakes).

 

You should never disconnect the positive cable. If you want to reset the ECM, disconnect the negative cable, and turn the headlight switch on for a minute. Turn the switch off, and reconnect the negative cable.

 

I did disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 5 minutes (it shouldn't matter which side of the circuit is open), and it made no difference, sorry for forgetting to mention that.

 

It does matter, and I'll tell you why. With the negative cable disconnected, what happens if you accidentally drop a wrench that touches the positive battery post and ground? Nothing happens. The circuit is open, no matter what you do to the positive post. But if the positive cable is disconnected, and you do the same thing, you will create a short, potentially damaging any electronic equipment on board.

 

You are absolutely right, from a safety standpoint, and it is the best practice, however from an electrical standpoint there is no difference in the result.
Thanks for the tip!

 

I feel sort of stupid here, but I cannot find the module, should you be able to see it w/o taking the dash apart?
The harness from the 60 pin connector goes up into the dash and disappears from view.

 

Remove the 60 pin ECM connector, a couple nuts, and a grommet. Then lower the drivers side wheel tub. Then pull the ECM out through the engine compartment.