99 f-150 5.4 COP swap question

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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Brian994x4's Avatar
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99 f-150 5.4 COP swap question

So i have determined I need to change my Coil Pack on my 99 f-150 5.4 with 150K miles on it.

So I have the coil packs, I got some Deyeletric Grease, got my tools and plan to go after it tonight.

Couple of questions. First off, I had the plugs chaged 8000 miles ago so I was going to leave them. Do i need to remove the fule rail if I am just changing the coil packs? Also, is it the back left or right side of the engine where the Coil Pack gets leaked on causeing them to go bad?

Also, any tips on changing this? My truck is lifted a bit so this is going to be a pain in the rump to work on. Was thinking of backing my truck onto ramps so it's leaning forward to make it a bit more easy to work on. Anyone else got any tips for a newbie fixing to jump in with both feet?

Thanks a bunch guys. FYI, got my coil packs from Ebay, that Global Automotive supplier guy, super deal, hope it works!

Brian
 
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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dixiebandit69's Avatar
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You don't need to remove the fuel rail to get the Coil packs out.
It just takes some finesse. Also, the COPs that had the problem you were talking about were on the rear passenger side of the engine.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 02:27 PM
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Can anyone send em the link to that great page where the step by step instructions on changing this all out is? I can not for the life of me come up with it searching the forums.

Thanks

Brian
 
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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Brian, The first that I did to make getting at my motor much easier was to pull the front tires , lower the front end down in a couple blocks - I jacked up the rear a little as well. This allowed me to work comfortably on components towards the back of the motor.

Steve's a good guy over there @ Global - I've installed three of these kits - REMEMBER - These modular motors are picky, more so when it comes to the COP's system -In my experiences changing just one or two of these is not a good idea.. It's an integrity thing with the 4.6/5.4 modular. Changing just a portion most likly will soon compromise the weaker units - Change them all ..

Grease them up real good as outlined within this forum.

I always pull the fuel rail , true , you do not need to - you will have to loosen it though, otherwise cyl 6&7 will give you a hard time. I just get everything out of the fricken way,lol - much easier in my opinion.

Good Luck
 

Last edited by jbrew; Sep 18, 2006 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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How is it I knew someone would say change them all. ;-)

I am under some serious time constraints. My plan was to get one side finished this week and try and get the other side finished next week. Do you think I am setting myself up for certian failure taking this approach?

I hope I get lucky and I can knock the whole job out tonight but I always plan on Murphy's Law taking effect whenever I try to save myself a buck, that's why I planed on tackleing the passanger side only tonight and the other next week.

Anyone have that link of how to do this job handy, still searching the forums and still comming up with jacksquat.

Thanks.

Brian
 
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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way fast witey's Avatar
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i haven't had any problems after i just changed 2 of mine that went out.i changed one and the next time i went through some mud(i drove through my pond at about 30mph)and another one went out.i was like great now all of em are gonna go out,but i changed that one and its been fine.i pretty much had to pull the fuel rail on the driver side.i might be able to get em out without removing it but i pull it off every time just cause its so much easier.i always pull the fuel rails,egr tube and power steering reservoir bracket.i've got it down to an hour to change all plugs and boots with a smoke break or 2.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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If your just replacing your COPs and have air tools (for your lugs) and a good cordless drill - 40 minutes (for COP replacement)

Disconnect your battery, pull your intake, a few vac hoses, disconnect throttle linkage, unbolt power-steering resivior(8mm top bracket / 10mm bottom)

I thing the COP bolts are 6mm- maybe 7 idunremember , there smaller tho.

WAIT - till you have time, dielectric grease is important , you need to apply this between your cylinder head and boot at the top of the chamber(seal the chamber off) , this prevents water and moisture intrusion..

You should invest in a Haynns or Chilton book.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Sep 18, 2006 at 06:44 PM.
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