I have a 1991 F-250. A couple weeks ago, I noticed that after it got warmed up (drive about 5 miles) then stop, or drive slowly, I would turn the steering wheel, and it would be VERY difficult, if not impossible to turn sometimes. Start driving again, and it would be fine.

We replaced the power steering pump a few days ago. Now when I turn, I hear a groaning noise, like the new pump is working WAY to hard. Turning is okay if the vehicle is moving, but it can get very diffucult if the vehicle isn't moving.

Today we pumped out the power steering fluid from the resivoir, put new in, ran it, pumped more out, put new in, ran it, etc etc. We did this until we went through 2 quarts of new fluid. Didn't help it a bit.

It doesn't appear that any of the hoses or fittings are leaking.

Anybody have other suggestions to try?

Thanks!

 

I would take a look at the steering gear box. Try taking off the pitman arm turning it to see if its binding up.

 

Just curious. The owner's manual says to use ATF Type-F for the power steering fluid. Does it hurt to use regular power steering fluid?

Thanks!

 

I've always used ATF, but I dont see why it would hurt.

Adrianspeeder

 

atf has always worked fine for me too.

 

I tested turning today on just a plain gravel road, and dirt road, when the vehicle was stopped. It's still binding up somewhere.

What's the best way to test if this is a steering gear box issue?

 

Haynes covers sterring gear box check and adjustment well. Its to long for me to put in here and a manual will serve you well anyway. If I was you I would invest 20 in one.

 

Is this what I'm kind of looking for?

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/boo...01988288&itm=3

 

That will work. Both chiltons and haynes make good manuals for cars and trucks. The chiltons is even my prefrence as it seems to have better detail. Haynes is sold at most auto parts stores and is still pretty good.

 

How hard is it to take the pitman arm off, and can you do it without jacking up the front end? (I'm new to the steering stuff)

Thanks!

 

I don't think you would have to jack it up but it would probably be a good idea any way. Get both wheels off the ground and use jack stands for safety. Try the steering then and see if anything obvious appears to be wrong. To remove the pitman arm should be straight forward. Remove the nut. You may need to borrow a puller. Auto Zone loans tools for free. You just put up the money for it and they refund it when it returned.

 

sounds like you have air in the system still its causing a lock in it its like a vapor lock brakes do the same thing when bleeding them you need to crack the return line open a little turn the wheel on way then tighten the line then the other way do the same way as the other side this should take of it if not then you need to drive the vech for awhile to work the air out i work in a garage i deal with this every day the return line is the one without the high pressure fittings

 

That makes perfect since. See pork always go to an expert. I'm just a shade tree that has to muddle around till I find the problem.

 

Hey mat any way to stop my white trash from leaking from the gear box without replacing it?

 

Would you still think it's air in the lines if I've driven it quite a bit for about three weeks now?

Also, before I take the pitman arm off, do I need to mark it in any way? Or do I just keep the weels straight, pull it off, test, put the wheels straight again, and put it back on?

Thanks!