Recently been having problems with what I think is the starter motor...turned the key once and nothing happened...by the time I gathered up jumper cables I tried again and it started no problem. Second time same thing happened...tried jumping it with cables...no luck....tapped the starter motor with a hammer and it started and has been okay since.
1. Is this probably the starter motor on it's way out?
2. Could it also be the cable between the starter motor and the relay?
3. Is this an easy job for a novice mechanic to repair, and does anyone have a reference for a step by step guide and any special tools needed?
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

The cables on these trucks are known to wick corrosion up under the plastic cover. Tapping the starter jiggles the wire and helps it make enough contact to start. Jumping will not help if the cable is corroded. Get under the truck can cut/slit some of the plastic insulation on the red wire. This will expose enough to see if it is corroded. WARNING: disconnect the negative wire at the battery. I would also check the negative wire. Replacement at the Dealer is horrendous. I wouls find a local starter/alternator repair shop. Bring in the old one(s) and have new ones made. That is what I did. If the wires and contacts are clean remove the starter and have it checked. The starter has 2 bolts and 1 stud where the negative cable attaches. All are 13mm.

JMC

 

When my truck did this same thing, it ended up being the solenoid on the firewall. I believe the part was about $8 and took a couple of minutes to change out. If you want to check this turn your key on and lightly lay a box wrench, or screwdriver across the posts, if it turns over the solenoid is the culprit.
Rich

 

I have a '98 5.4. Where is the negative cable (coming from the battery) supposed to connect to the starter? I have 3 post on the solenoid. One is small and clearly for the starter switch, one for the positive cable and the other post has a ground strap coming from inside the starter. Is the last one where I am supposed to connect the negative from battery or does it go to chassis?

 

I deduced that the negative cable went to the 3rd post (one with the ground strap). Still, all I get is a click when I try to start.
Again, brand new starter, brand new starter relay, 2 month old battery and alternator. I also changed the positive and negative cable clamps but not the cables.
Possibly a short somewhere? Should I change the + - battery cables?

 

The negative cable from the starter goes to the chassis. The lower starter bolt should actually have a stud and a nut. It bolts there.

 

Been my experience the starters on fords almost never fail. Cables conections firewall relay.. I've replaced a few perfect;y good starters.. Know better now..

 

Starters are super easy to verify. Ground the B+ terminal and small (S terminal) at the starter together. The starter should crank the engine (engine won't start since PCM is not getting the ignition feed). If it does crank, your problems are with the fender relay or PCM control. If it doesn't crank, it basically comes down to starter, power/ground wires and battery.

 

Okay, I guess I wasn't clear on my issue. I have replaced the starter relay (only because I broke the existing), replaced the cable connections to the battery but not the cables themselves, replaced the starter. My battery has been tested and is good (it's only a couple months old) and finally for grins, my alternator is a couple months old.

When I go to start, all I get is a click. That is why I originally inquired about the starter connections. There are 3 posts on the starter. The small one is obviously the starter switch, another one has a ground strap attached to it that comes from inside the starter and the third has to be the positive. My question is: does my negative cable go on the post with the ground strap or is supposed to go on the chassis?

 

There are 3 bolts holding the starter to the engine block. The bottom bolt is the stud wit the nut. Do not get these confused with the nuts on the starter solenoid.

 

Right,

Neg run = 1 leg to the firewall (6 awg). 4 awg to the bottom starter bolt. 6 awg double backs from bottom bolt to frame rail.

That's for a 97, 98 and maybe the 99,- without fusible link at the battery.