Yeah, I live in Southern California (Desert) and the price ranges were from 220 to 280. A local hole in the wall muffler shop that sells radiators was able to give it me for 220 out the door. It was a direct replacement. The only thing I had to change from the old one to the new one was the fittings that the tranny lines screw into.

 

oops

 

Around here we have lots of cottonwood. I've seen several radiators that get a coating of cottonwood, mud... between the radiator and condenser. Same symptoms, and easily corrected with careful use of a pressure washer. After you pull the radiator, hold a light behind it to see if the fins are plugged. My buddy’s one man shop sees 2-3 of these a year.

 

Radiators can be tested for flow. Not too hard to remove on these trucks, and taken to a good radiator repair shop, you will save over replacement. They'll boil it out, fix any leaks, rehage the tanks, and test it. I had a smallleak develope on the side along the tank. They fixed it, I repalced all the coolant, and the truck runs cool as ever.

The reason the coolant boils over is that it expands when it get above the boiling point. In my experience, three causes. Thermostat, clogged radiator, or bad water pump. Head gasket will usually overflow under hard acceleration.

 

[QUOTE=EsoxShep]Radiators can be tested for flow. Not too hard to remove on these trucks, and taken to a good radiator repair shop, you will save over replacement. They'll boil it out, fix any leaks, rehage the tanks, and test it. I had a smallleak develope on the side along the tank. They fixed it, I repalced all the coolant, and the truck runs cool as ever.

EsoxShep,
Not sure, haven't checked my truck yet but if it has plastic tanks you can only replace it.

David