Does using the little diagnostic mode thing-a-ma-jigger in the odometer do anything for ya? Guess it wouldn't show a code hu?

 

Maybe the 02s comp is diff - iduno , I posted the link sometime ago, you can look for it if you like .. Or start a thread asking for help from "Temp1" (he gave me the link)- Buy these COPS - these are originals , the injectors as well and your truck will have new life - these are type twos and I purchased these aswell if you have the right conectors(I had to buy the harness off this guy , but he's not offereing it this time - write him and he'll set you up - good guy..) I swapped my Globals with these and really don't know if the injectors made the diff or the coils,(By the way Steve is the guy you want to talk to @ Global - if you get the kit make sur you specify your motor so you get the right plugs that come with -22's)but on the way to work just about every day me and three other f150's race on the e-way , my 98 5.4 smokes the harley in the stait aways lol - okay so it's a 2000 harley w/o the lightning, just another 5.4. Personally I think the injectors made the diff.

PS- I also added a Flowmaster 50 series (not the long tube SUV type- the shorty)

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQf...ssZdanimal5737

 

Neither system will flash any codes by itself.

An OBD-I system can be forced to do so with a paper clip.

An OBD-II system requires a code reader or scan tool to pull codes. A flashing MIL on an OBD-II system indicates a serious misfire; one bad enough to risk catalyst damage.

The dealer test mode using the odometer does not read OBD-II codes.

Steve

 

When I was having troubles and my 98 was running like chit because of not just one but my COP system as a whole after washing my engine sometime ago . I would get a flashing light constantly - went back to the drawing board many times and freakin pulled my hair out. Never again!! lol .. Anyway, the OBD-II scaned multiple misfires most of the time , sometimes there would be two codes - one directed to a particular cylinder and also the multiple misfire code... I would tear it apart test the COP's every which way I could and put it back together and try it again - somethimes I would get a MIL constant , most of the time I got the flashing one . It would flash for a while then go off and come back on flashing for a while and again go off - I worked on this COP drama for a month before finally replacing all the COP's on this truck - What a difference that made and only cost me just over $100 on ebay. I wouldn't wish this problem on anyone - thing is , my COP'S passed primary , secondary and LIVE tests . So that made me look elsware for the problem for a while until I found that my COPS were failing under a load. After doing a search in these forums it was then I figured that out. The dealership would have soaked me for over 1000 bucks..This site has saved me some major cashola - kudo's

 

MIL is the check engine light right? jbrew, I'm getting the same symptoms as you just listed above. Sometimes steady and sometimes flashing. It's still funny that I never had any light until I did your computer re-set procedure. Guess I'll also quit driving it. Not that I was but I had to drive it somewhere yesterday. I also really don't think the injectors would be bad at this point...but I'll never say never. We'll see.

 

MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Most Likley it's been awhile since u disconnected your battery - leads me to believe your comps been trying to compensate the problems that have been slowly worsening. Reconnecting the battery set you computer back to default - CHIT! I broke your truck lol.. HAHA - Kidding.. Your options would be if you have an Auto Zone in the area , get the free scan they offer - These injectors are upgrades and no I don't think this is your problem. If it was me I would ****** up the COPS from the guy who's link I provided - These aren't just Motorcrafts , but there the Original Ford Motorcrafts that you just can't find anymore, There a little more expensive here but not much and you don't get the plugs as you do with the cheaper kit, I will say for some reason these are heavier than the aftermarkets and plus this guy gives you new bolts with them. Can't go wrong here.. I'm running the exact same ones. This guy gets original crate motors from ford and disassembles them to part them out.. I'm telling yuh grab them while you can ..I think he only has 4.6's - doesn't matter these COPs will work on any modular as far as I know.

 

jbrew, the link you attached up in post #17, is that the coil kit I should get? I found the one set on e bay with plugs for $130-ish? Those aren't the good ones?

 

Since I originally started to tell people on this site about these coils COP-KIT (The $130 kit that comes with plugs from Global AUTO) many have purchased from Steve(mann, where's my cut?? lol) and there has not been one unsatisfied customer - I puchased four kits all together and installed three of them -One set on my truck and two other's on friends = 2 cases of Coronas (my fee)

If you go with these just make sure you write Steve and tell him the exact Motorcraft plugs you want or you won't get the right ones most likly - he's a good guy and I talked to him on the phone - very thourough guy..

Personaly I like the other ones because they are the orginals that Ford installed at the factory and are a little different - bigger and heavier - most likly because they are the older style.. I can't say honestly if they are better or not , I just liked the fact that they were the originals.. The ones you get from Glodal are OEM but theres no Motorcraft sticker on top , there identical in shape to the two I purchased at Auto Zone for 60 bucks a piece before I learned of these..

So take your pick - they both will work..

 

HA!! Got my codes today....
P0306 Cyl #6 misfire
P0316 misfire detected first 1000 rpm's
P0174 system too lean (bank 2)

Now, that last one has me concerned. Bank 2 would be the same side as the #6 cyl so I'm assuming it's related...I hope?? I read something that it could possibly be an O2 sensor, but seems the two would be related. Replace coils and see what happens with that one?? I think I'll get the kit from Global Auto. If you look at the picture he has of the package of coils, it's in a Motorcraft package!!

 

well let me tell you I have been having the same problem with both of my Expo's it started as soon as they started putting 10% ethanol in the gas, and no my expo's did not show any codes. what I did went to super unleaded gas and and put some Lucas fuel additive in when I fill up. so far it has worked for about 3 week with out a problem... Hope this Helps... go ahead an run 1 whole tank of super unleaded with the additive bofore you expect it to clear up...

 

Look up "Sea foam" NightStalker (lol) - seriously , you wanna get everything squeaky clean inside without dismantling - Get 3 cans Seafoam , add the first one to a full tank of high test 92 octane or better run that tank of fuel to almost empty - about 15-20miles after your light comes on - Change the fuel filter - add can two to another tank of premium fuel - take it back home, pull your brake booster hose off while it's running and stick into Sea-foam can #3 - Let the booster hose suck most of that can down until your truck just about dies or starts running iratically - SHUT IT DOWN, Let it sit for an hour or so . Start it back up and let it run - rev-er up here and there until she stops smoking lol - (I'm serious , just sounds funny lol) - either it will quit smoking all together or you'll see a misty white smoke . Run that tank of fuel thru and then change your fuel filter once more - done...You will not believe how dirty that new filter has got - or how much better your truck performs ..

 

They won't come that way to you , not that box - but they are Motorcrafts code 316 is a new one on me - sounds like secondary failure , it must be really running sheaty - I never had one fail there - I'm not sure if u have 2 Or 4 O2 sensors - when those fail it's usually the drivers side front. - there really isn't a code for that, the 174 has to do with allot of things - 4 example , your upper and lower manifold gaskets - vacuum leak or emissions failure and maybe your cats are F'ed - hope not , u might want to make sure your injector didn't shut down on #6 - the comp will do that if go to long with a misfire - it's programed to do so to protect your cats - regardless start with the COPs and plugs anyway - most likely your problems will go away after that..

 

I'll do that, Thanks

 

jbrew...how/where to you apply the di-electric grease to the spark plug boots? Just goop it up in there or just a little bit?? Rub a thin layer all over the outside of the boot too?? Thanks.

Just for an update...I haven't ordered the kit yet from Global because I have been away on business and really haven't needed the truck at all. I did contact them though and they will be on the way next week. Will definiatley let you know if it works or not.

 

Hi!! Sorry haven't been on in awhile. I've investigated this question in great detail over time , I was confused once on how to apply dielectric grease.
Note, that I have done this awhile ago and since have put it to the test ,i.e. - driving in monsoon conditions, threw puddles, rivers and whatnot lol. Water is the ultimate enemy of your COP's system and will compromise even new one's if you fail to protect your investment. Here's watchado -

1. Pull the boots free from your new coils (if the springs come off , take them out of the boot and push them back onto the coil. Take the boot and with a long thin screwdriver, spread the grease along the shaft of your screwdriver and coat the inside of the boot with it well. (Don't worry about getting grease on the springs when re-installing the boots back onto your coils- this grease is conductive so don't worry about over doing it).

2. The seam at the top of the boot after reinstalled onto the COP needs to be coated with dielectric as-well.

3. Very Important finale step. Once your COP is installed and bolted down to your motor make sure to seal the gap between the top of the boot and cylinder head with dielectric grease. This prevents water from entering the chamber.

4. DON'T wash your motor ...EVER LOL.