Do I have a big engine problem?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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Do I have a big engine problem?
I just bought a 94 F-150 and I have a rattle in the engine noticeable coming out from a complete stop. I was told its a lower connecting rod bearing. The Ford mechanic said that its from years of cranking in cold weather. The engine has 122,000km's (77,000 miles). He also said that he's seen them a lot worse than I have it and it may be ok for the next 3 yrs or so. He said not to worry. A symptom as well as the clunking is virtually no registering oil pressure at idle and sure enough thats whats happening. Do you think I should worry about it?I'd take any suggestions and insight.....Thank you, Al
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 159
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From: Metro Atlanta
Originally Posted by F-150 Al
The Ford mechanic said that its from years of cranking in cold weather.
Cranking in ANY weather shouldn't make an engine clunk if you use the right weight oil, have enough of it in the crankcase, and start/warm the engine up properly, should it?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,083
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From: Ventura, California
A little info on bottom end engine noises:
Main Bearing Knock:
Main bearing knock is usually apparent when the engine is pulling hard, when an engine is started, during acceleration, or at speeds above 35 mph.
Loose Flywheel or Broken Flexplate:
A loose flywheel or broken flexplate can usually be detected by this procedure:
1) Advance engine idle to 2000 rpm.
2) Turn off the ignition switch.
3) When the engine has almost stopped, turn the switch on again.
4) Repeat this procedure several times.
5) If the flywheel is loose or the flexplate is broken, a distinct knock will be heard every time the ignition switch is turned back on.
Harmonic Balancer:
A separated harmonic balancer will generally produce a heavy rattling noise that can be heard at low speed.
Rod Knock:
Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance noises are usually a light rap or clatter much less in intensity than main bearing knocks and the loudest when the engine is "floating" or running with a light load at from 25 to 35 mph. The noise will become louder as engine speed is increased. By grounding out each of the spark plugs, one at a time, you can determine from which cylinder the noise is coming. The noise may not be eliminated entirely by grounding, but it will be reduced considerably in intensity. The easiest way to ground out the cylinders is by inserting a 1.5" piece of 5/32" vacuum hose on each terminal on the distributor cap, and then placing the spark plug wires over the vacuum hose. With the alligator clip end of a non-powered 12 volt test lamp attached to ground, touch the test light tip to the vacuum hose to ground out that cylinder.
Piston Slap:
Piston slap is loudest when the engine is cold, and lessens or disappears after the engine is warm. When driving the car (at from 25 to 30 mph) the noise will increase in intensity as the throttle is opened and additional load is applied. To detect piston slap, try the following procedure:
1) Pour several ounces of 40 weight engine oil into the suspected cylinder(s).
2) Crank the engine for several revolutions with the ignition turned off. This will allow for the oil to work itself down past the rings and act as a cushion.
3) Install the spark plug(s).
4) Start the engine.
5) If the noise is eliminated, the engine has a piston slap condition.
Piston Pin Noises:
Piston pin noise is usually the result of excessive piston pin clearance. This will cause a sharp, metallic, double-knock sound most noticable when the engine is idling. Sometimes the noise is more audible at car speeds of from 25 to 35 mph. To test for excessive piston pin clearance noise, use this procedure:
1) Run the engine at idle speed.
2) Retard the spark to reduce the intensity of the knock.
3) Return the spark timing to the normal setting.
4) Short out each spark plug, one at a time. The double-knock sound will become more audible at the cylinder with the loose pin.
Other possibilities for you to consider include:
1) Loose timing chain hitting the inside of the front cover.
2) Connecting rod bolts hitting the inside of a dented oil pan.
Main Bearing Knock:
Main bearing knock is usually apparent when the engine is pulling hard, when an engine is started, during acceleration, or at speeds above 35 mph.
Loose Flywheel or Broken Flexplate:
A loose flywheel or broken flexplate can usually be detected by this procedure:
1) Advance engine idle to 2000 rpm.
2) Turn off the ignition switch.
3) When the engine has almost stopped, turn the switch on again.
4) Repeat this procedure several times.
5) If the flywheel is loose or the flexplate is broken, a distinct knock will be heard every time the ignition switch is turned back on.
Harmonic Balancer:
A separated harmonic balancer will generally produce a heavy rattling noise that can be heard at low speed.
Rod Knock:
Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance noises are usually a light rap or clatter much less in intensity than main bearing knocks and the loudest when the engine is "floating" or running with a light load at from 25 to 35 mph. The noise will become louder as engine speed is increased. By grounding out each of the spark plugs, one at a time, you can determine from which cylinder the noise is coming. The noise may not be eliminated entirely by grounding, but it will be reduced considerably in intensity. The easiest way to ground out the cylinders is by inserting a 1.5" piece of 5/32" vacuum hose on each terminal on the distributor cap, and then placing the spark plug wires over the vacuum hose. With the alligator clip end of a non-powered 12 volt test lamp attached to ground, touch the test light tip to the vacuum hose to ground out that cylinder.
Piston Slap:
Piston slap is loudest when the engine is cold, and lessens or disappears after the engine is warm. When driving the car (at from 25 to 30 mph) the noise will increase in intensity as the throttle is opened and additional load is applied. To detect piston slap, try the following procedure:
1) Pour several ounces of 40 weight engine oil into the suspected cylinder(s).
2) Crank the engine for several revolutions with the ignition turned off. This will allow for the oil to work itself down past the rings and act as a cushion.
3) Install the spark plug(s).
4) Start the engine.
5) If the noise is eliminated, the engine has a piston slap condition.
Piston Pin Noises:
Piston pin noise is usually the result of excessive piston pin clearance. This will cause a sharp, metallic, double-knock sound most noticable when the engine is idling. Sometimes the noise is more audible at car speeds of from 25 to 35 mph. To test for excessive piston pin clearance noise, use this procedure:
1) Run the engine at idle speed.
2) Retard the spark to reduce the intensity of the knock.
3) Return the spark timing to the normal setting.
4) Short out each spark plug, one at a time. The double-knock sound will become more audible at the cylinder with the loose pin.
Other possibilities for you to consider include:
1) Loose timing chain hitting the inside of the front cover.
2) Connecting rod bolts hitting the inside of a dented oil pan.