Mixed oil...do over?
Mixed oil...do over?
I just did my 1st oil change on my truck, '06 5.4 8cyl and as I was adding the last quart I saw that it was 5W30 instead of 5W20. Quit pouring and looked again at the empties and there was another 5W30. Out of the 7 qts I put in 1 1/4 was 5W30. Should I re-change the oil or will it be OK? I can't believe I did that!! Any advice would definitely be appreciated. I used the synthetic blend.
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
If the 5w-30 was an Energy Conserving rated oil, they are on the thin side of the viscosity range. The 5w-20s are almost always at the top of their viscosity range meaning they are about as thick as a 20 can be and still be a 20. Most likely you haven't put enough 5w-30 that would make any difference whatsoever. At absolute worse, it may cost you at the gas pump but I don't believe that it will effect fuel mileage. There will be no damage if that is your concern.
Nothing to worry about. Your engine won't notice a smidge of 5W30 in the mix.
You'd be surprised how many oil change outfits still fill your 5W20 synthetic blend recommeded engine with 5W30 Dino. I think people here worry too much about oil.
You'd be surprised how many oil change outfits still fill your 5W20 synthetic blend recommeded engine with 5W30 Dino. I think people here worry too much about oil.
Originally Posted by lees99f150
Remember, the wrong oil is better than no oil.
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You guys!!!
Don't ever worry about whether to run 0-20, 5-20, 5-30, or some other weight.
The new engines run the 5-20 because it helps the manufacturer to meet the federally mandated CAFE mileage. The 20 weight gave them the edge to pass the requirements without major modification or redesign. For us consumers we'll never see a difference in mileage whether we run 20wt, 30wt, or even 40wt.
The only other reason to run a light weight oil is if you live in cold climates or the engine sits for long periods. Light weight oil will circulate faster.
Don't ever worry about whether to run 0-20, 5-20, 5-30, or some other weight.
The new engines run the 5-20 because it helps the manufacturer to meet the federally mandated CAFE mileage. The 20 weight gave them the edge to pass the requirements without major modification or redesign. For us consumers we'll never see a difference in mileage whether we run 20wt, 30wt, or even 40wt.
The only other reason to run a light weight oil is if you live in cold climates or the engine sits for long periods. Light weight oil will circulate faster.
5w20
Originally Posted by Iggy
You guys!!!
Don't ever worry about whether to run 0-20, 5-20, 5-30, or some other weight.
The new engines run the 5-20 because it helps the manufacturer to meet the federally mandated CAFE mileage. The 20 weight gave them the edge to pass the requirements without major modification or redesign. For us consumers we'll never see a difference in mileage whether we run 20wt, 30wt, or even 40wt.
The only other reason to run a light weight oil is if you live in cold climates or the engine sits for long periods. Light weight oil will circulate faster.
Don't ever worry about whether to run 0-20, 5-20, 5-30, or some other weight.
The new engines run the 5-20 because it helps the manufacturer to meet the federally mandated CAFE mileage. The 20 weight gave them the edge to pass the requirements without major modification or redesign. For us consumers we'll never see a difference in mileage whether we run 20wt, 30wt, or even 40wt.
The only other reason to run a light weight oil is if you live in cold climates or the engine sits for long periods. Light weight oil will circulate faster.
fuel mileage and cold weather aside. OHC engines have a serious cam oiling problem on startup.
in my 42 years of wrenching I have seen very few scored cam lobes on OHV engines where the cam gets flooded by crank splash but scored cam lobes are fairly common on OHC engines.
Originally Posted by rmeidlinger
fuel mileage and cold weather aside. OHC engines have a serious cam oiling problem on startup.
in my 42 years of wrenching I have seen very few scored cam lobes on OHV engines where the cam gets flooded by crank splash but scored cam lobes are fairly common on OHC engines.
in my 42 years of wrenching I have seen very few scored cam lobes on OHV engines where the cam gets flooded by crank splash but scored cam lobes are fairly common on OHC engines.
That is a good reason to run a lighter weight oil.
I run 5-30 in my marine engine beacuse it sits for long periods and I want that oil to flow as fast as possible upon start up. And that is also the reason I use Mobil 1. For the added protection.
Iggy, unless you have an oil analysis to back up your claims that the M1 in a marine environment is the best, I would strongly suggest that you dump it as soon as possible. M1 is not rated for the marine industry and corrosion levels will be at the extreme. If you don't want to spend the dollars for the correct marine grade oil I would suggest a diesel rated oil in 10w-30. I would not suggest any diesel rated oil that is synthetic or any PAO basestock. PAOs require a tackifier to keep the oil on the internal parts. It works for overnight useage but will fail dismally in an extended no start situation. You could also use an ester based oil like Redline but then your back to the high oil cost. Remember what they say about real estate. There are three very important things to look at- location, location, location. In motor oil it is the same only, application, application, application. Just because it might work wonders in your truck doesn't mean it is worth beans in your boat. Your boat, your money.
Now I never said M1 was "the best" for use in a marine environment.
I only stated that that is what "I" run. And that I use a lighter weight oil to allow a faster pressure build up.
For every brand of oil, there are people that will argue that their favorite brand is the best.
M1 has been in my boat for 5 years now. As far as I can tell, without a complete teardown, there hasn't been a problem. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm only saying I haven't personally seen a problem.
I you care to, go to www.offshoreonly.com (35,536 members) and www.speedwake.com (10,368 members) and read what brands of oil they all run. If it isn't M1 then it's Royal Purple and a couple other brands. Some of these guys have engines pushing 1000+ HP running on M1 or RP season after season.
I only stated that that is what "I" run. And that I use a lighter weight oil to allow a faster pressure build up.
For every brand of oil, there are people that will argue that their favorite brand is the best.
M1 has been in my boat for 5 years now. As far as I can tell, without a complete teardown, there hasn't been a problem. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm only saying I haven't personally seen a problem.
I you care to, go to www.offshoreonly.com (35,536 members) and www.speedwake.com (10,368 members) and read what brands of oil they all run. If it isn't M1 then it's Royal Purple and a couple other brands. Some of these guys have engines pushing 1000+ HP running on M1 or RP season after season.
Originally Posted by DenisGionet
So, Chester, I gotta ask.... do you actually pull a 490 shovel behind a pickup ? A NON-DIESEL PICKUP ????????
Showoff.........I like you already !!!
Showoff.........I like you already !!!



