[QUOTE=bcshepard]I have the 4.2 so I can't send you a pic. Get with Rick. You CAN fix this problem yourself.

Did you try the break cleaner trick yet?

Anybody want in on that $10 bet?

 

[QUOTE=pops]I agree that is good advice and I plan on trying it as soon as it stops raining... I appreciate everyones comments. Thanks again!

 

[QUOTE=pops]Ok, despite the rain I couldn't wait to try so I sprayed 1/2 can of brake fluid all around the engine and the air filter holder and all over the intake area. I didn't unbolt anything, I just sprayed the brake cleaner everywhere including over the plastic intake cover that says the size of the motor, etc. I didn't notice hearing anything, no revving of the engine or anything... What am I doing wrong? Any thoughts? I still have 1/2 can left.... by the way, would a vacuum leak also affect my brakes? Seems I have to really stomp on the pedal now to stop, more than I did before all this.... Thanks, Matt

 

The brake booster uses engine vacuum. I would say that is a good place to start. Make sure that line is secure and intact from one end to the other.

 

[QUOTE=mscruton]Hey no fair adding new symptoms. With regard to the spraying of break cleaner, I have to ask, did you get some of the "new" nonflammable break clearner? If so this trick will not work. I guess I should have told you that before

When I sprayed the break cleaner near the leak the reving was quick and noticable. You don't need to spray it near the air filter. Just spray it near the vaccuum hoses and around the throttle body. My leak was so small I just about had to hit it to get it to rev. Have you cleared the error codes yet. If so how fast do they come back?

Have you heard from Rick yet? If I had a 4.6 I'd be in a position to help.

 

[QUOTE=pops]The can I was using has "Flammable" on it with warning labels, etc... I did get pictures emailed showing two spots to check and I will try hitting them again.

Thanks. Matt

 

What's up? Did you figure it out yet? Inquiring minds want to know. Don't just leave us hanging.

 

Thanks for following up with me on that... I sprayed everywhere with no luck. So I ended up taking the truck to Midas who said the vacuum leak code was due to a leaking brake booster. The sound was coming from that general area and my brakes haven't been right lately (requires a strong push). They didn't have the part, but quoted me a total of about $275 for the replacement. I said no thanks, and went to NAPA and bought a $65 booster and after about 2 hours had it replaced. No more leaking sound, but my check engine light is still on. I just replaced it today...I'm hoping the check enging light will go away soon? My brakes feel a lot better, but still require more of a pedal push than I'd like.

 

If there is an AutoZone near you, take your truck there and ask them to read and clear the codes. It's free. I don't believe that it will go away on its own. If I'm wrong about that I'm sure someone here will chime in. Keep track of when you get the code cleared. If it comes back you will know how long it took which will give you some hint as to how significant a leak you're looking for.

Oh and congrats on doing it yourself!!! Besides the $ you now know it was done right.

 

Thanks for the tip, there is an AutoZone nearby, they are the ones that initially read the code for me and told me the solution to the code was to run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank.... They don't always come up with the greatest "solutions" and I've found are often wrong and want me to buy stuff that doesn't help me. That's why I was glad I could just write the code down and come here to this forum and ask the "experts" their advice.

The guy at Midas made it sound like it would be a real chore to get the brake booster fixed and warned me that it wasn't safe and I should get it done... But the part with labor was around $275, and I got it done for $65 and didn't have to twiddle my thumbs inside the lobby of Midas while they milked the job for as much $$$ as possible. I had planned on replacing the booster at home, but ended up doing the whole job in a Sears parking lot because I had a couple hours to kill before meeting my parents for supper and I didn't have time to go home...I figured, why not? So I took the socket set I had and went to town... I ended up realizing when I got to the nuts in by the pedal that I would need an extended socket, and I didn't have one with me...So I borrowed a set from Sears by buying a new set, then returning them after the job was done for a full refund... I said something like "I'd like to return these, I noticed these sockets aren't the easy to read type...." I felt like a jerk, but I have tons of those sockets already at home and didn't really need a set, but with my booster already half off, I wasn't going to throw in the towel just because I was short one tool. I remembered reading something about how to replace them on this forum, and I thought it sounded do-able even though I'm not a mechanic. Anyhow, I probably shouldn't have attempted the repair alone in a parking lot away from home without having much of a clue what I was doing and no real backup plan if I couldn't get it all back together, but I tried it anyway and fortunately it all worked out. 2 hours later, I was driving to the restaraunt to meet my folks for Italian pasta.... my brakes worked great, and no annoying hissing sound! Thanks again everyone, this forum is awesome!


Matt

 

You my friend are the MAN Great big cahones

 

Thanx guys..
Ive been having simular problems,this gives me something else to look at.
I havent noticed any hissing while driving,but my truck is pretty loud.
My brakes do go about to the floor, I assume that its because its time for new front pads.
Was yours idleing a bit high(800-1000)?
Anyways,got something else to check now to find my prob.


1997 Supercab XLT 5.4L(330ci)

 

My trucks idle was fluctuating, and still seems to even after the change. It seems to stall out sometimes when I come to a complete stop, the RPM's just slowly drop down to nothing and it dies. Pretty annoying, but I can't figure out what is causing it or where the leak is if I still have one. At least my truck stops now, I just wish it wouldn't stall out...

 

Have you checked the IAC yet? You can clean it with throttle body cleaner or just smack it a few times with a screwdriver or small wrench (don't get too aggressive with it). Very easy to change out if you have too.

 

What is the IAC and where is it located? Should I replace it or just clean it? I'll try it if I can find it. I'm feeling brave after replacing my first brake booster successfully. Maybe I should park over at Sears again in case I need to borrow more tools

Thanks! Matt