Checked sensor and it is mounted horizontally, came from the factory that way, can only be mounted that way.

 

I was going pull the injector yesterday to set off the engine light hoping it would give me pending codes as well. As it turns out I didn't have to pull the injector the light came on before I had the chance to that. I didn't get the chance to hit Auto Zone yesterday, but will today, thanks for letting me now that it probably wouldn't have worked. I reset the PCM by unhooking the battery. The light came on after driving it about 10 miles or so. I'm hoping now that this will scan out as the genuine problem.
Thanx again.
jbrew

 

JMC,

So the 24s won't work at all? I'm just looking to replace my originals to eliminate that as a problem. I found a good deal on a set on eBay , but there 24s as said. Thought they might work, that's what I need to find out before I make the purchase, if you say they won't and that I need to stick with 19's then that's what I'll keep looking for or I may just get mine tested. It's easier for me just to buy a set and replace than it it to get them tested. The injectors I have now have 170k on them so replacing them I thought isn't a bad idea. Thanks for letting me know that the 24s might cause me more grief. I'll keep looking for stockers(19s) if that's my only choice.
Thanx again.

 

dwsf150,

The vacuum line set that connects to all ports on the TB, fuel rail, EGR, back of the manifold are fairly new (20,000 miles on it). Something that has puzzled me about the vacuum system on the truck is this. In 2000 while this truck was under warranty the engine blew for no apparent reason (no warning signs it just went), it was replaced by ford with a reconditioned one(I just found the tag on the bottom of the block), it seams like I should have received a new one. Since then the hoses that lead to the front differential, well one of the hoses anyway that connect to a 3 or 4 way connector on the wheel well about 18 inches below the battery is not connected to anything. ALLdata.com does not show this and I can't find it in the Chiltons book. I was just curios is this normal? My 4 wheel drive has always worked flawlessly.
Thanx ( :

 

If you look follow it down, it should be connected to the axle vent on the front axle. Ford bundles that hose with the vacuume lines from the diff.

JMC

 

Well, this is embarassssing, I wish there scanner provided more info, anyway the OBD-11 read PO358 primary/secondary circuit fault which is the coil. The Auto Zone tech didn't know which cylinder 358 was, but I know now that it is eight. While at Auto Zone he suggested that I pull each coil wire off to see if the idle changed while the motor was running. In doing so there was know change until I got to eight - it wasn't freakin plugged in!!! geeezzzz.... I plugged it in and the motor ran better, but there is still that miss in it that I started with. I took the truck back home here and disconnected the battery for a reset to see if maybe I'll get lucky.. Also I unplugged each injector one at a time while the motor was running and the motor reacted to each, therefore the injectors seam to be working as well. Initially and theoretically my thought is all of my coils should work over any cylinder on this motor, however I did not put any of the coils back in it's exact location in which it came from, I didn't number them like maybe I should have, should that matter? I know as far as computers go anyway - Theory and Integrity often conflict and I may have messed with the Integrity here installing the coils in different locations on the motor, or am I just thinking to much here lol. I guess I'll see if the reset helps - It is running better even with the constant miss. I hope I can figure this out soon - it'll take quite a bit to get me to go to the dealership, I better double check all other connections before resetting it this time - can't believe I didn't connect 8 last time maannn...
Thanx to all ( :

 

PS -

JMC,

I followed the vac lines and they are hooked to the differential, there's a bank of four bundled below the battery. One of the four there's just a boot in without a line on either side, just an extra I'm guessing..?
Thanx for the info.

I have to figure out how to post some pictures on here.

Thanx , jbrew

 

Now the problems are multiplying - First code I had with the engine light on was 1131 - What sensor is this? 250 miles later and I 'm fouling plugs, I have another code now along with 1131 - the 357 misfire. No. 7 has a new injector plug and coil-pack, I really don't want to take this to the dealer, but it's looking like I'm going to half to. I don't know what else to check - my fuel pump past the tests, just barley - but it did pass. I have been posting my truck problems for about 3 weeks and I've had so many good suggestions from all who replied. This sites my favorite and definitely the most informative. I've tried all the suggestions but still this goes unresolved. I think maybe something is just weak without total failure which is difficult to pinpoint. I ran out of time here - thought about just shelling it out for a new one which would give me more time to totally go threw this one. I don't no

My check engine light is freakin blinding me - Doesn't that mean sensor failure?

 

Have you checked your injector sequence to see if you have the right harness to the right injector?

 

Never heard of that one - how is this determined? wire coloring? This may sound a little silly, but I totally removed the harness at one point to re-tape it. When I re-installed the harness the plastic pegs didn't line up on the valve cover posts. Right way I thought was it possible I put this on backwards?? One of my injector wires are labeled (#5) and It was in-fact plugged into the right injector - still, the plastic pegs didn't line up on the valve cover. This didn't make sense and I ended up adjusting the plastic pegs to fit the way it was positioned now. I never figured out why they didn't line back up, but your post would make sense and I'm trying to determine if this is my problem. Thanx, mech259 - I think you got something here. My injector wire that said #5 doesn't necessarily mean #5 (maybe I shouldn't go by that is all I'm saying)-

I had a new motor installed in late 2000 due to Fords doing an oil change and didn't put any oil back in the motor - I didn't get far lol

Something else here - I didn't receive 1131 or the MIL until I swapped out #7 injector with a spar. Is there any way to blow through the injector w/cleaner manually once removed, with compressed air? 19 lb injectors open @ 19 + pressure when applied ?

if of course I was running a jumper at the same time from the plug on the harness with the key in the on position.

Or do you guy's just think I'm nut's ?

 

For a while now my 5.4 has been running a but "rough".
Last Monday it took the term rough to an all new level. It ran like it had 2 cylinders dead. The check engine light just wasn't on, it was flashing! Darn truck would no go over 40 MPH. It would idle normally, rev like crazy in neutral, but under load........
I took it to a local repair center and let them have at it. I told them that it will need plugs and to let me know what they find. The called and said that the codes said it had misfires on cyl's 3-5-7 and it just looks like it needs plugs, an injector cleaning, and a fuel filter. Gave them the go-ahead.
Well 580.00 later all seemed well. Then it started again, but intermittently. No CEL though.
I'm leaning towards the coils needing to be replaced. The truck has 133,000 on it.
BTW I found several good deals on sets of eight coils on E-Bay.

 

I'm beginning to think the same thing on the coils - I seen a set a while ago on eBay , but haven't in a long time. I get a blinking light ounce in a while and when it starts to run real bad , I pull all the coils swap them around - clean the plugs and do the same - move them around. It misfires of and on for awhile then goes away then come back in another 100 miles or so - then I start over- haven't made my mind wether to buy injectors or coils, most likely it will be coils - Murray's has them for $47 a piece.

Thanx for the reply, it's good to know there are others with the same sort of problem, wish there was an easy way to tell exactly what's wrong... uknow

 

The Motorcraft part number, for my 5.4, is DG508.
Do a search on E-Bay and you'll find several auctions selling sets of eight new coils for as little as 100.00. This is the rout I'm going. I can't afford to pay parts store or dealer prices.

 

Just be aware of what you get for $100 off of ebay. I got a set for that amount, advertised as OEM. They were not, the package was marked DG 508, but that was all. There was no numbers at all on the coils and the tops were clear. They were ok though and they were brand new.

 

Hopefully you can get a good enough pic of them before you buy or bid , what ever the case may be. Thanx to all of you, for your reply's - They are always very helpful and appreciated.