Stuck Spark Plug
First of all this is my first post here, although I have got a lot of great information from this site, its awesome. Need some help that I dont think anyone else has had yet. Im having problems with getting #3 spark plug out of my 97 F150, 4.6L. It seems that its stripped. The plug is still in there and when I put the socket and all the extensions and such it wont grab the plug. Is there any thing else I can do short of taking the head off to get at it better. Was kinda hopin that the dang thing would just blow out without ruining the threads, but dont think I would be so lucky, lol. Got 145K on the truck and with a few minor things replaced beside the plug its still running great. This is about the only major headache Ive had. Hope someone can help me out here.
I just changed my spark plugs and on the first one my adaptor after the socket was sticking in the hole. I didn't know it until I got it stuck and had to work real hard to get it back out. If cleaning it doesn't work, you may want to verify the thickness of your extension or adaptor/joint isn't thicker than the socket.
Stuck Plug
I had a similar problem on my 98 except the plug wasn't stuck. When I pulled off the plug wire, the metal connector that was supposed to be attached to the wires broke free and was heat welded to the plugs electrode.
When I stuck my socket down in the plug hole to loosen it, the extra length added by the wire contact sitting on top of the plug prevented the socket from seating on the plug. Made me think there was gunk in the way preventing the socket from seating, I was wrong. This happened on number 8 so..... I couldn't see into the bore it was a pain to figure out but with some skill and a pair of electricians needle nose pliers I was able to remove the contact from the electrode and then get the socket onto it. The thing is that when the contact is stuck to the plugs electrode, you can't see it cause it is concealed by the bore. Stick your finger down into the bore and see if you feel like something other than the top of the plug is present. For reference first feel another plug that you know is okay. Note the depth as well as feeling of the surface.
If you do get it out, be sure to use a liberal amount of anti-seeze on the new plugs as well as electrical lube for the porcelain resistor and electrode, it prevents the contact from heat welding to the plug. Trust me it helps down the road! Also the electrical lube prevent moisture from reaching the resistor and electrode by sealing the boot around the plug. 97's and early 98's had horrible problems with moisture fouling out plugs.
When I stuck my socket down in the plug hole to loosen it, the extra length added by the wire contact sitting on top of the plug prevented the socket from seating on the plug. Made me think there was gunk in the way preventing the socket from seating, I was wrong. This happened on number 8 so..... I couldn't see into the bore it was a pain to figure out but with some skill and a pair of electricians needle nose pliers I was able to remove the contact from the electrode and then get the socket onto it. The thing is that when the contact is stuck to the plugs electrode, you can't see it cause it is concealed by the bore. Stick your finger down into the bore and see if you feel like something other than the top of the plug is present. For reference first feel another plug that you know is okay. Note the depth as well as feeling of the surface.
If you do get it out, be sure to use a liberal amount of anti-seeze on the new plugs as well as electrical lube for the porcelain resistor and electrode, it prevents the contact from heat welding to the plug. Trust me it helps down the road! Also the electrical lube prevent moisture from reaching the resistor and electrode by sealing the boot around the plug. 97's and early 98's had horrible problems with moisture fouling out plugs.
Last edited by jgernert; Feb 20, 2006 at 08:57 PM.
Originally Posted by bodybysteve
I just changed my spark plugs and on the first one my adaptor after the socket was sticking in the hole. I didn't know it until I got it stuck and had to work real hard to get it back out. If cleaning it doesn't work, you may want to verify the thickness of your extension or adaptor/joint isn't thicker than the socket.
Ok, it was all cruded up, after letting it soak in wd40 for a while and then seafoam. It broke all the **** out and was able to get the socket on. Then wouldnt you know the dam plug broke in half. Well at least I got it half out.
.Guess Im going to have to take the head off now to get the rest out unless anyone knows of a way to get it with out taking the head off.
.Guess Im going to have to take the head off now to get the rest out unless anyone knows of a way to get it with out taking the head off.
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Cleaning
Sounds like head removal. That sux man. Let a machine shop do it, if you mess up those threads, it's about 1000 for a new head minus the cam.
Last edited by jgernert; Feb 21, 2006 at 12:09 AM.
Got the insulator part out , it broke off at right at the hex flats, (nut), rest is still in the head. The other plugs where changed twice. A couple years ago my wife took it to midas and just found out after I changed them again about 1500 miles ago, so that #3 plug was the origanal , midas couldnt even get at it to get it out.
Last edited by Bigskyford; Feb 21, 2006 at 08:24 AM.



