Well it sold you on their product, did it not, true or false?
This is the basis, most of the time, why people buy things and put money in others peoples pocket. Look at how many cold air products are being marketed.
They sell whether they work or not just on the 'appeal' of 'false' common sense.

 

I suppose they could add something along the lines of isopropyl alcohol, which people put in their snowmachines when the tanks or fuel lines iced. it basically makes the water burnable in the motor, much safer on a small two-stroke than HEAT. But there is no reason to modify the temperature at which the gasoline itself freezes.

 

Alcohol is a combustable.
It combines with water almost unlimited.
This is how it clears water from the tank by burning the results of recombination.
It has nothing in common with gasoline and does not mix with it.
Water is heavier by specific gravity than gasoline and settles to the bottom of the tank where it can be taken in by the fuel pump inlet more quickly (and cause trouble).
Water in engine oil will even settle to the bottom of it's container even though the oil seems heavier.
I had a 5 gallon container setting outside with a couple quarts of oil in.
When it rained, the water displaces the oil. Emptied the container and there was the ice in the bottom from the water, not on the top.
Oil/petro product always floats on the top even in a lake or the ocean.

 

I'm not sure if you were trying to correct me or just add more information, but I said "along the lines of isopropyl alcohol" for a reason. I don't know the specific names of the additives they use in the winter gasoline mentioned above. However, I do know it (isopropyl) does not mix with gasoline and thats why it works so well, it sinks to where the water is and mixes with it, not the gasoline itself.

I have an example like you. I use fuel oil to heat my current and last house. The stand for the last house wasn't stable enough to handle the 200 gallon minimum the fuel company delivers, so I toated 5 gallon jugs of it every couple weeks. This leads to a lot of condensation over the winter and summer from all the openings of the tank. Not using the heater in the summer caused the lines and filter to fill with water and would freeze come first cold snap, starving the heater if precautions weren't taken before hand. When draining the lines into a bucket, you could easily see how much condensation had accumulated at the bottom of the bucket. It was a lot too.


Edit: BTW kids, Isopropyl alcohol is not the same as rubbing alcohol which does contain isopropyl. Rubbing alcohol is something like 97% water, so don't go adding this to you gas tank like some fool friends of mine did back in highschool.

 

No correction, just explanation for all to see.
Understanding is the biggest problem on these boards because common sense and high school physics seem to be missing quite often.

 

 

True! I aslo asked if they had done dyno's and R&D etc...
I didn't go on "the 'appeal' of 'false' common sense"
Do you have ANY mods on your vehicle? If you do how did you go about researching it? Did any not work out to the way you wanted them to?
I'm trying to fix the situation I'm in. Please tell me how to fix this. If that includes getting rid of it... let me know.

 

 

What this

 

Well, the method of fixing this problem depends if you consider it a real problem. Is the percieved power you gained worth the milage loss to you? If not, return it to stock and see if you milage goes back up. If it does then leave it alone. If it doesn't, we need to investigate other cuases. Find out if your state uses a winter blend, whats in it and when they introduce it. You may find that it was indeed introduced in September, but thats highly unlikely.

 

This is what we're talking about, I would assume a northern state like Maine would be started up October 1. Possibly coinciding with what you said earlier.

 

I have no performance changes on my 02 4.6.
It runs like a gem and gets upward of 17 mpg on a trip except in this cold weather.
I tow 22' race trailer in summer, at nearly 12,000 lb combined weight.
On your truck you have a different mass air meter design that is much more sensitive to intake changes. I cannot tell you what to do about it except that it may require a tuning change in the computer.
Even that has to be approched and done with testing.
So what happens is this turns into a very expensive situation by the time it is all done as opposed to the original 'simple' intent.
Some people make the changes you did and have no problem, many do have a problem. I have seen it here before.
I'm sorry there is no better solution. I know you don't want to hear it the first time around and it becomes hard to believe what with past experience but this is the way these trucks and cars are going in design such that you can't hardly make any changes without a high likelyhood of getting into a problem.
It's sort of like the guy who owns his truck for many years then has to buy a part and finds the part that used to cost $12 now cost $35 and wonders why.
Time went by and he lost track of things just a bit.
All I try to convey is, things are not a simple as they used to be.
Going on, the engine control system has become so emmissions oriented that power ability of these engines is surpressed. We don't like this, and what results is owners try to circumvent the system to get that power at great cost that more often than not doesnot give the results expected.
The makers of air intakes systems and many exhaust parts and other foolish items take advantage of all this while you lose your money to keep their doors open.
Now this is all in reference to a stock non performance engine as it come from the factory.
When actual performance is the goal then there is usually a high cost to get that extra power.
Certinaly a better flowing exhaust will be benifical at 4000 rpm and upward but that in not where the truck runs 99% of the time so that type of exhaust generally does not give much gain in normal use. Same with intake mods.
What is forgotten is the fact that these engine are only 261 and 330 cu/in respectivly and donot make the torque we like to move 6 and 7000 lb trucks the way we would like.
There are some things you just can't get around without spending a lot of bucks.
The best way to go is a tuner and program to change the way the factory program controls the engine; but here again you get into a chain spending deal that you have to decide on how much value it is to you but the fuel mileage usually does not improve much with increases in power.

On the internet, everyone has a voice wether right, wrong, good or bad.
Good luck with your truck.

 

Also remember that with the two hurricanes winter blend gas was released to ease product shortfalls. Google winterblend and hurricane and you can see the articles.

 

Thank you for adding that, i wasn't aware.

 

i thought de-icer is what i put on my windsheild... why dont they just pour a little bit of antifreeze in the gasoline that ought ot work good