Didn't pass inspection
Didn't pass inspection
My 87 f150 302 didn't pass inspection.(i live in south jersey).. the standard for nox was under 1100, i got a reading of almost double, and then the hydro carbons are at 200, when the standard is like 150. so what do i do, my buddies dad said that i had a stuck egr that was fixed at the time because it's also is pinging, i don't know what to do here, i want the timing to be right and i don't want to pay for a sticker, any ideas anyone why my trucks pinging and not passing.. i want to get it to run right and soon do some mods( which i could use some help with)...thanks for the help.
Welcome to the world of repair.
The high NOX is the the EGR valve not opening when commanded by the computer. You should have a MIL light on from this and a code/s stored in memory. Read them out to see what is there.
The EGR is right up front near the throttle body under a black plastic like cover. It should be removed and cleaned as well as the port or replaced. There is another control to pass vacuum to the EGR to operate it. That system may have a fault making the EGR notfunction.
Fix this first then do plugs, wires ,cap and rotor.
Set ignition timing to 10* with the SPOUT removed.
Get service info and look all this up so you know what you are to do.
I would say to you that after this service, making mods to the engine won't get you very much in the way of more performance on these engines.
Although they are called 5L efi engines they are not setup like a Mustang even though many parts will fit.
The cams are the old style and fire order as well as non roller, the fuel injection is not sequential like the Mustang.
So you take it from there with the mods.
Good luck.
The high NOX is the the EGR valve not opening when commanded by the computer. You should have a MIL light on from this and a code/s stored in memory. Read them out to see what is there.
The EGR is right up front near the throttle body under a black plastic like cover. It should be removed and cleaned as well as the port or replaced. There is another control to pass vacuum to the EGR to operate it. That system may have a fault making the EGR notfunction.
Fix this first then do plugs, wires ,cap and rotor.
Set ignition timing to 10* with the SPOUT removed.
Get service info and look all this up so you know what you are to do.
I would say to you that after this service, making mods to the engine won't get you very much in the way of more performance on these engines.
Although they are called 5L efi engines they are not setup like a Mustang even though many parts will fit.
The cams are the old style and fire order as well as non roller, the fuel injection is not sequential like the Mustang.
So you take it from there with the mods.
Good luck.
bluegrass, thank you so much, now i have some more info on it so i can fix it, thanks again and i will defiantley post if i have more problems.
Bluegrass, your from Easton? thats where i bought my f-150 from...thats crazy.
Bluegrass, your from Easton? thats where i bought my f-150 from...thats crazy.
Last edited by inline6dude; Nov 3, 2005 at 12:48 PM.
I don't know the mileage my guage doesn't work , but its as good as my straight 6 or better, it does well on gas for a v-8 but we'll see how much $$ it's gonna cost to fill both tanks tonight, i'll keep you posted.. :santa:
One of the big tricks to emissions where the "sniffer" is used in the exhaust pipe is to get it hotter than hell right before the test. The hotter it is, the more of that stuff that burns off. I have gone as far as to pass by simply adding a bottle of miracle emissions pass to the tank and roaming the interstate at 100MPH for a while, then going back and revving the **** out of it right before the test, and pass like its brand new.
A friend from work had his 87 Mustang fail inspection at the Mays Landing inspection station this week. Reason? Too much body rust. That's really sad. NJ is getting out of control.
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Stupid treehuggers and their emissions laws is all I have to say. That's the biggest reason my last car was from 1968 and the biggest reason why my next will be of similar vintage, too. And then I move to Texas during the summer and find out they have safety inspections. You can bet that really frosted my @$$.
Seems like we're getting some conflicting information. Here in the Phoenix area, Arizona Auto Emissions tells you in a brochure in the registration packet:
1. Thoroughly warm up your engine before you arrive.
2. AN OVERHEATED ENGINE MAY CAUSE YOUR VEHICLE TO FAIL INSPECTION!!
"While waiting for your test it is best to keep your engine in neutral or park with your air conditioner off."
Although this information pertains to cars in general, I don't believe the F-150 has an emissions sytem too much different than any other vehicle. Could be the state just wants us to pass the test the "hard way" and not the "easy way". It wouldn't surprise me.
1. Thoroughly warm up your engine before you arrive.
2. AN OVERHEATED ENGINE MAY CAUSE YOUR VEHICLE TO FAIL INSPECTION!!
"While waiting for your test it is best to keep your engine in neutral or park with your air conditioner off."
Although this information pertains to cars in general, I don't believe the F-150 has an emissions sytem too much different than any other vehicle. Could be the state just wants us to pass the test the "hard way" and not the "easy way". It wouldn't surprise me.
Phoenix does use a modified gasoline all year long where most other places
do not. Don't know if that would come into play or not. (as to how hot an engine should be when getting a smog test). Here, like most of California, they require alcohol in the gas half the year, and nasty MTBE in the gas the other half.
do not. Don't know if that would come into play or not. (as to how hot an engine should be when getting a smog test). Here, like most of California, they require alcohol in the gas half the year, and nasty MTBE in the gas the other half.
Your cat is your best friend when it comes to passing the sniffer. John Force could pass with a decent set of cats. lol.
You DO want to get the driveline as hot as possible, without overheating, just prior to the test.
You DO want to get the driveline as hot as possible, without overheating, just prior to the test.


