Hey folks. Wife's Expy had AC compressor melt down ( it's a 4.6 W motor ). I mean I still don't know how she drove it another week. The magnetic pickup with completely gone as well and a bunch of ball bearing bouncing on the ground with I removed what was left of the pully.

Want to install NON AC belt but need to know what the correct belt path is.
This will let me get it up to the guy to pull the AC system down and dry so I can pull the compressor and install a new one.

I would really be thankful if someone out there could help me with this.

The AC belt is a xx80990 and I've got a xx80797 which is the best I could come up with ( most of what I found on-line was xx80795 for non-AC ).

 

Hey I Just Had My Compressor Clutch, Pulley, And Misc. Parts Replaced Due To No A/c. I Would Think Your Compressor May Be Ok, And Just The Clutch, Etc. Can Be Repaired.

 

FD,
You may be correct however it appears that due to the amount of heat encountered the field coil ( I think thats right ) will not come off of the compressor. That and the clutch assembly I had ( returned ) was $133.00 and a complete Sanden compressor with cluth is only $169.00. Since it appears that to install a complete clutch I would have to remove the compressor I had decided to replace the entire unit.

Scott

 

My Chiltons manual shows the routing for the 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 engines as the same. In the without air conditioning version the belt drive tensioner is about where your air condition is. I'm not sure that you could make it work.

 

polydorus,
Thanks for the info. I work ( even on Sundays ) and I did have just enough time to try the belt I got on Saturday and pretty much have come to the same conclusion. The belt that I have is still too big and the whole bet tensior thing you mention was a puzzler for me. This really stinks. Now I know I will never give up my 94 F150 with the Farm Tractor 4.9 motor ( with over 230K miles now... hoping I don't jinx myself). I'll be calling the shop I have spoken with tomorrow. BTW this guy does know his stuff and is Ford oriented. The group is Hose Wizards in Loganville, GA and they make a kit for 5.0 Mustangs. The last time I was at his shop he had a T-Bird SuperCoupe converted to 5.0 V8 power he was adapting AC on and a SVO stang that he was installing a compressor to chill the intercooler and provide creature comforts. I'll post my results maybe it will help others.

 

The AC-equipped and Non-AC equipped trucks use a completely different tensioner located in a different spot. I know one of the guys from the MI chapter got one to work in a fix a few months back.... Neal (99XLTon20s) was the one, but I think his was a 4.2....

Not sure if there's an easy way to rig it to work without the AC compressor there.....

-Joe

 

Pre-Runner,
I having trouble with the tensioner on my 1999 4.2 L. I'm not sure if it is stuck or I'm just too chicken to use enough force to get it to move. <G> Too many years of V-belts.
Not knowing how it works doesn't help any either. I guess the whole thing pivots from where it attaches to the engine block. That's why I had the manual handy. BTW, Ford provided me with a combo diagram which shows both routings for the 4.2 L.
Anyway, if you were to draw a sketch of your 4.6 belt routing then erase the belt tensioner and rout the belt straight across from the air conditioner to the crankshaft, that's what the without air version looks like. In order to make yours work you would have to replace the A/C with an idler pulley and use the original belt.
Good luck with yours.
Mike

 

Please ignore my first post. It just dawned on me that we're talking about a 4.2 here as well....

You should be able to bypass the AC compressor without any difficulty. Just get the belt for the non-AC-equipped vehicle. It'll use the same tensioner, just a shorter belt according to the diagrams. However......

You'll probably need to yank the clutch and pulley off the compressor for it to clear the belt path. If it's toasted anyways, it shouldn't be a big deal as it's conveniently located right up there on top of the engine. On the 5.4 or 4.6 it's not so nice.....

-Joe

 

Pre-Runner has a 4.6 L engine. I was whining about my 4.2 problems. <G>

 

If the only reason you were wanting to bypass the compressor was to be able to drive the rig to the AC repairman was so he could evacuate the system, so that you yourself could replace the compressor.
Just be environmentaly uncorrect and loosen a fitting and let the R134a bleed off slowly.
You can tell yourself that the damaged compressor has already let most of it leak out anyway...

 

OK...I've bleed the system off and actually have been through the process of replacing everything on another vehicle once before. I know the thing to check next is the orifice tube filter but..... on this mangle of hose where in the world is it? I'll be praying the entire time that it is clean... oh please oh please let it be clean.