MAF ported.... removed center post made a good bit of difference

TB port looks purdy now

and the intake elbow... need to work on it a bit more but i smoothed out all the rough edges

 

Faster150 - I hope you are one of the lucky ones with removing the center post, but most people have problems. Usually they wind up replacing the MAF.

On the elbow, did you do any work on the short side radius?

 

i have a backup MAF just in case it gives me problems. the trick to porting it out is resetting the battery then driving it hard so it will read ari properly the MAF has been ported almost a year now with no problems. and yes i ported the whole intake elbow maybee couple mm larger overall. i just matched it and smoothed it out. stock TB so porting it any larger wont show me any difference.

 

My MAF has been ported the same way for two or three years, with no CEL or any bad effects. It did also seem to make a bit of difference also.
The kickdown on WOT seemed to happen just a bit harder afterwards.,,,,98

I don't really know much how much difference it made over yours, but I also smoothed out the lip behind the element tube. I also rounded the top of the element tube off as well.

 

I think the majority of trouble is from porting the MAF with the electronic part in place. I took mine down to bare aluminum before beginning work. Maybe the vibration kills them? I don't know?,,,,98

 

yes its always inteligent to remove delicate sensors before lol doing anything MAF's are some of the most delicate sensors on a car...but i didnt worry about making the sample tube completely round it wouldnt have made a difference. and would have just added time to the project:-p maybee later on i'll trim the rest of it

 

removing parts or porting the maf would seem like it would give the computer a different reading and cause your truck to run a little lean. any perfornmace gain is probably on the lean condition more than is from the slight increase in air flow. in other words the maf is calibrated that a sample of air represents a certain volume of air passinf theu the meter, if you change the volume of air passing thru, then the signal is incorrect (slightly)

yes or no? (i am guessing here)

 

the sample tube is not increased at all so the same amount of air flows through it. the center post slows the air down through the MAF causing is to read properly under stock conditions. so by removing the center post air moves more freely through it and with aftermarket intakes in order for ur air to read properly u need a aftermarket MAF so it wont throw a lean code.

 

okay did some math. the stock ported TB is 70mm which has area of 3846.5mm sq(5.9"). 75mm is 4415.6mm sq(7.0"). and the inlet of the intake manifold is roughly 4900mm sq(7.6"). so do the math a 78mm TB is the maximum size TB that u should put on the 4.6 and 5.4L due to the intake inlet limitation and the intake elbow. so a 75mm TB will have 10.2% more airflow over a stock TB. so say... 68mm TB the 4.6L makes 235HP.... thats 3.45 hp per mm... at that rate a 7mm increase will add 24more HP.... so according to physics:-p u should have 259hp... but we all know that wont happen....

 

let me reword it.

say the sample tube passes 1 volume of air thu it while the maf sensor housing passes 5. so the computer knows that whenit sees 1 it is actually flowing 5.

know you increase the amount of air thru the housing to 6.

so before, for every 1 that goes thru the sample tube the computer knows it is 5, but now when it see 1,it thinks that 5 is going thru, 6 is actually going thru, so the calibration is off. on a stock tune this is ok, but an aftermarket tune this could be enough to go too lean and cause a problem.

1 = amount of air thru sample
5= amount of air that a stock meter flows
6= amount of air it flows after the modification.

let me know if that is totally confusing?

 

the same amount of air is being read by the MAF removing the center post allows more air to move and to move more freely though it. the same amount of air is being flowed into the engine with or without the center post because the throttle position does not change. ur engine will suck same amount of air no matter what u do... aftermaket MAFs and after market intakes and larger throttle bodies do nothing but help it breathe easier....the only reason they are thrown out of calibration is because when u port it u make it read air at a difference velocity. since ur injectors remain the same all u need to do is reset the ECU and then run it hard and it will recalibrate itself... by determining the a/f mixture and the amount of air the MAF is reading. follow?

 

 

lol sorry i read it then edited it.... should make more since now

 

HI!... If you remove the center post or even port a MAF meter the engine will run leaner, plain and simple. This has been discussed a hundred times before. It has been proven. Don't beleive me? Go tell MIKE TROYER in the COMPUTER CHIPS section what you did to your MAF and see what he says. He's the expert on that situation......................

 

lol it will go lean if its doesnt re-adjust itself...like it should. but i was running rich before because the chip was programmed to rich so its better now. but i'd still like an a/f gauge to see where i stand...