YES, I DID do a search...
NO, it DIDN'T answer all my questions...

Straight up, no BS what are the advantages of using Full Synthetic????

I have owned 38 vehicles (I used to buy a vehicle that wasn't running or wrecked, fix it up and sell it for profit to pay for my racing habit) in my life ranging from hi 9 sec drag car, a hoopy Hyundai, a new F150, a 91 Chevy, 4 motorcycles, etc...

Before I retrained into Flight Engineer, I was a mechanic for 9 years, that means I know a great deal about engines and how they work, yadda, yadda, blah, blah... I've worked on everything from one cyclinder air cooled gas engines to V16 2 stroke 11lt diesels. We used: Oil, General Purpose, Lubricating, 30 Wt in EVERYTHING we worked on regardless of what the engine manual called for, regarless of climate. I never once saw a engine problem that was linked to oil.

I have never used full syn or even a syn-blend in any of the vehicles I've owned. The guy at the Advanced Auto I frequent keeps trying to convince me that Mobil 1 is worth the $5/quart. I have used nothing other than Castrol or Mobil (whatever was cheaper at the time) dino juice exclusively in EVERY vehicle I have owned with absolutely no problems. The only exceptions to this are the motorcycles which get Honda HP4 dino juice.

So basically what I'm asking is why should I pony up the dough for full synthetic oil??? Even Ford and every Ford service dept I've talked to says that full syn is not called for in the owners manual so why pay extra for it???? Is it worth it??? Will I see any advantages/differences???

I'm not trying to insult anybody or question anybody's choices. Also realize that I don't care about brands either. I always used Castrol or Mobil because it was the cheapest at every AF base I've been stationed at.

Thanks in advance...

KC-10 FE out...

 

Short and sweet version:

Your basic advantages with synthetic are decreased engine wear (longer engine life) and longer drain intervals (varies by which synthetic you are running).

There is more to it than that, but its your basic improvements. Some will claim better gas mileage but if you do get better MPG its not going to be any more than .5-1 MPG if that much.

For more info you can check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

Dear KC-10 FE,,, Yes use synecthic. Think of an oil molecule as different sizes of *****, ranging from sizes from a big beach ball to a small ping pong ball, and they are moving fast inside ur engine, the smaller ***** are going to move faster, get into the smaller openings better, but the big ***** are just going to fall back and get left behind. Thats how reg motor oil is, much of it provides NO lubercation, and much burns off as vapor, and has no qualties to dissapate heat, plus much of that oil just runs off before it gets in to the main and rod bearings. BUT Synethic Motor Oil ALL the molecules are the same size and exactly the same, made of the same oil, that provides better engine protection, better cooling, quicker flow, and synethic is not affected by extreme temp changes, it stays the same hot or cold. And synecthic oil will last longer, not vaporize, burn off. If ur planning on keeping ur engine trouble free for 10 years, 200K miles, use synecthic, but if ur the guy that buys a new car or truck every 3 or 4 years, use reg motor oil

 

Do what??? If regular dino oil "provides NO lubrication" then I think you would see next to no difference in using dino oil vs. no oil at all (which is obviously not the case) and an engine using dino oil would have no chance of seeing any life at all.

 

A biased source to be sure, but here's what Amsoil has to say:

http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amso...nthetics.shtml

Rotella, another maker of synthetic oil, says this:
http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=60

I think the main benefit is a much higher operating range than dino oil. That is, it won't break-down at higher temps. Also, better cold flow is a big benefit.

But there are lots of other benefits that are touted for synthetics.

 

The advantage for me is the longer drain intervals, better cold weather (25-30 below) and towing. I use Amsoil 5W-20 and the cost comes out to be just about equal. I have no complaints.

 

I use Mobil 1 in my vehicles.

However, I think the real advantages with synthetic is longer drain intervals and higher temperature capability. Chevy switched the Camaro to Mobil 1 to avoid the expense of an oil cooler.

If you change your oil frequently, I don't think you will ever notice the difference in longevity. Dino oils have come a long way too.

I do know that when I switched my 86 Monte CArlo SS to Mobil 1 at 107k miles, it immediately started burning oil. The engine was super clean inside. I know this because I had just changed the valve seals and the oil pan gasket and there was NO sludge in that engine. Then again that was a Chevy!

 

KC

I think that this is only a question that only you can answer, personally I can justify the added cost of the synthic oil as I drive a minimum of 70 miles/day.....I have done a mileage check and I get on average approximately 2 mpg better than the traditional "dino" oil. My mileage is mostly all highway at 55mph +/- ...... Your driving habits and needs should be what determines what motor oil you choose. Does your lifestyle justify frequent oil changes or do you need to go longer periods of time in between? Is your vehicle stored inside a garage in the winter or does it have to brave the cold? Do you drive long distances or is it a short tripper? Do you do the oil changes or do you hire it done....all things that I feel would play into my decision. I went with amsoil due to the longevity that i need out of this vehicle, and I went on the recomendation of a very good friend along with the research that i done.

In my opinion, it is worth every penny as the oil mfg backs there product with a monay back guarantee and will replace the engine if it is found that it is the cause of engine failure.

I hope this helps.

 

KC, look a the oil analysis thread.
The recommended 5w20 motorcraft oil is a blend and is the best overall oil if you change at the reccomended intervals and not want to be ulra concerned about your oil or engine.
Also see the Motorcraft web site and look at the oils/lube section for more info.

 

Thanks for all the replies and info...

I'm thinking the longer change interval is not an issue simply because if Ford could prove I didn't change the oil in a timely manner, then POOF! no more engine warranty. There is then the fact that almost all the major hi-perf syn companies say they will pay for the engine if it blows up due to oil related stuff.

The part that intrigues me the most is the increased MPG. Always a good thing in a full size truck...

I change my oil at the 5K interval specified in the manual. I drive between 1800-2000 miles/month. I can say that I drive probably 60% hiway & 40% off hiway. My second oil change (truck has 7200 on it today) will be due in about 5 weeks. I would say the engine has broken in fully. I also plan on keeping this vehicle until I'm elligibel to retire. That will be at least 8-10 years.

With those factors in mind and the fact that I haven't found a Ford dealer yet that I like, would it be a reasonable expectation to go to a 10K oil change interval? I would change my own oil and let the service dept do everything else. I would probably go with Castrol Syntec since I like Castrol dino juice the best. One of the pilots I work with has a Z06 Vette that he runs Syntec in even though the manual specifically calls for Mobil 1. If this guy is willing to use Syntec in a $60K vette, that a good enough recomendation for me.

I'm not convinced about Amsoil since someone else in another thread correctly pointed out that if its so good, why don't all the parts stores carry it?

Thanks Again
KC-10 FE out...

 

Parts stores dont always carry high quality stuff. Red Line Oil, Royal Purple, both are great oils that you dont see at parts stores.

So thats not a good reason to knock Amsoil off the list IMO, as they make a good oil.

If you want to use Castrol, use Castrol. It's ultimately up to you to decide what you run and how often you drain it.

 

My Bimmer is required to use full synthetic (Mobil 1 0W-40) and has 15,000 mile oil change intervals or once every 2 years. Though I change at 7,500 miles because I’m **** like that.

As for my FX4, I just use the recommended Motorcraft 5W-20, since I get it done at the dealer for $20 bucks every 3,500 - 5,000 miles.

 

KC, I sell Amsoil and Mobil 1, and have access to Red Line and Royal Purple. I've been using Amsoil and Mobil 1 for almost 20 years now. I used to run a dual PH8A and bypass remote filter setup on my Bronco using Amsoil 10w40. After 10K miles, you could still see through the oil and read the lettering on the dipstick. In my Screw, I run the factory filter and Amsoil 5W-20 OR Mobil 1 0W-20 depending on my mood. I like them both equally. Amsoil isn't marketed very well. Mobil 1 is marketed by genius'. That's why you see it everywhere. It helps that they have thousands of gas stations to help push it, but don't throw Amsoil to the wolves due to poor adwork. It's good stuff, so is Mobil 1.

SL

 

You are right, like K&N, Mobil 1 is very very very well marketed. As for Amsoil, it seems to have gathered a very strong (almost cult like) following. The almost grass roots support for Amsoil has definitely made me consider making a switch to that oil.

 

But I'm sure the postings of some on here makes you wonder. Heck I don't know if I would use it myself, since it's marketed like snake oil.


Anyhow, if you look at synthetics (or blends for that matter) for the advantages then you can weigh weather it's worth $5 per quart.

Here are some advantages.

• Lower Pour Point (some as low as -65F.)
• higher viscosity index allows the oil to maintain a more narrow viscosity over a higher temperature range
• normally it will have less VII's(viscosity index improvers) these break down over time resulting in the oil going out of grade
• Less volitilty, meaning less of the oil will evaporate turning into slude or varnish, you will also have less oil consumption becuase of this.
• Easier starting in the cold weather, There is a test called the cold crank similator(CCS) which measures the viscosity at -20, or -25. The viscosity of a synthetic at those low tems will also be lower.
• Better fuel economy (typically 3-5%) depending on driving habits and weather.
• engines will run cooler on average with synthetic because there is less friction, and at the molecular level the heat transfers better with synthetics
  

But becuase of the price, unless you are maximizing oil drain intervals, synthetics might not be cost effective for you. In this case I would look at a blended product that will give you some of the cold weather and high temperature protection and better wear protection. Blend can be a cost effective alternative to a full synthetic if you decide to stick with the recommended drain intervals.