Engine Oil Cooler
Engine Oil Cooler
Looks like my luck is subsiding with my truck. I took it in today for routine maintenance, and I guess the oil cooler line running to the remote filter is leaking. And the line is part of the cooler, so it all has to be replaced. Does this sound right to everyone? I actually thought there was just the tranny cooler.
And they also mentioned my rotors are rusting. Is this possible without the truck sitting for any long period of time? I did make the mistake of replace the pads and not turning the rotor, so the new pads are gone now. The impact I had on the large nut for the CV couldn't break it loose. What does everyone else use?
If I only had a bloody garage. Looks like I'll be looking around to use one now.
And they also mentioned my rotors are rusting. Is this possible without the truck sitting for any long period of time? I did make the mistake of replace the pads and not turning the rotor, so the new pads are gone now. The impact I had on the large nut for the CV couldn't break it loose. What does everyone else use?
If I only had a bloody garage. Looks like I'll be looking around to use one now.
This is a Ford dealer btw. Guess I'll have to check my Haynes manual to figure out what they're talking about.
Also, I'm assuming the low oil dummy light comes on. They told me it was low.
Also, I'm assuming the low oil dummy light comes on. They told me it was low.
I personally would get down there and take a look myself. I dont know about your truck, buy my L has a remote oil mount from the factory with an in/out hose (2 hoses) which could leak after mileage/time. Im just saying you may be able to fix it yourself for cheap.
Originally posted by Frank S
I personally would get down there and take a look myself. I dont know about your truck, buy my L has a remote oil mount from the factory with an in/out hose (2 hoses) which could leak after mileage/time. Im just saying you may be able to fix it yourself for cheap.
I personally would get down there and take a look myself. I dont know about your truck, buy my L has a remote oil mount from the factory with an in/out hose (2 hoses) which could leak after mileage/time. Im just saying you may be able to fix it yourself for cheap.
And yes, I plan to do the work myself.
My 98' Expy has a remote oil filter location (behind the bumper) as well as an oil cooler. It is located on the engine block where the oil filter would have been located if it weren't behind the bumper. Coolant flows through hoses that circulate in the oil filter adapter on the block. I know this is an oil cooler because I had to replace it.
This is the order of parts from the block to the oil filter:
- Engine Block
- Oil filter remote locater (this is the oil cooler is because there are coolant lines going to it)
- Oil Lines that go towards the bumper
- Oil Filter adapter and oil filter
I'm not sure how the L is set up, but that is the way the Expy's and some of the lucky F150 owners had the oil cooler option.
This is the order of parts from the block to the oil filter:
- Engine Block
- Oil filter remote locater (this is the oil cooler is because there are coolant lines going to it)
- Oil Lines that go towards the bumper
- Oil Filter adapter and oil filter
I'm not sure how the L is set up, but that is the way the Expy's and some of the lucky F150 owners had the oil cooler option.
Your front rotors are not held on by anything but the wheel itself.... The big nut in the middle is what holds your axle to the hub.
Now, your rotors could be "seized" onto the hub itself...... This happens to a lot of people..... You might get lucky and once you remove the wheel you should be able to bang on the rotor with a rubber mallet and it will come loose. Then you just have to remove the caliper and it will come off completely.
When I rotate my tires, I give the rotor a whack with the rubber mallet and it's always come loose....
I do that just so it won't seize on me when I really do need to remove it at some point... My last "brake job" was just replacing the pads... Still going strong after 20,000 miles and no warped rotors or noise either....
If your oil lines are leaking, that's what goes to the remote filter. If it's your oil cooler lines (on 5.4 engines), then it coolant lines that need to be replaced.
Good luck!
Mitch
Now, your rotors could be "seized" onto the hub itself...... This happens to a lot of people..... You might get lucky and once you remove the wheel you should be able to bang on the rotor with a rubber mallet and it will come loose. Then you just have to remove the caliper and it will come off completely.
When I rotate my tires, I give the rotor a whack with the rubber mallet and it's always come loose....
I do that just so it won't seize on me when I really do need to remove it at some point... My last "brake job" was just replacing the pads... Still going strong after 20,000 miles and no warped rotors or noise either....If your oil lines are leaking, that's what goes to the remote filter. If it's your oil cooler lines (on 5.4 engines), then it coolant lines that need to be replaced.
Good luck!
Mitch


