No, that is the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Your looking for the thing that I showed you in the picture above. It's on the drivers side of the throttle body.

Code 13: Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check

Code 44: Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative.(Right side)

I recommend unhooking the battery and clear the codes. Then hook it back up and drive it around (make sure it's been driving enough to be at operating temperature) and check the codes again.

 

OK Speed_Demon1965. thanks. I know the sensor you mean. Thats the one I unplugged and it would not idle. But the motor sounded more relaxed. Now how do I check the error codes from home. What do I need to buy?

 

You could try resetting the idle. With the IAC unplugged, the engine should idle around 500 rpm, or just barely. Once this is achieved, disconnect the battery for five minutes to reset pcm. Then start the engine and let it idle, put it in gear, turn on the A/C, then return to idle. This will allow the pcm to relearn the idle characteristics. Don't forget to check the plenum gasket for vacuum leaks.

Robbie.

 

You can check for codes with a simple jumper wire. Find the EEC test connector on the driver's side beside the air filter housing. Remove the single gray connector. Install the jumper wire into this and hook the other end to ground. Turn on the key and count the check engine light flashes. That is your code. If no hard faults, the light will blink once, pause, once long pause. Once, pause, once long pause. Then a single blink with a long pause, then the memory codes. A code 1-1 or 11 is no fault, test passed. Any other codes are dtc's. All codes will repeat when done. Hence the 11 twice before the memory codes.

Robbie

 

Sorry,
Thats what the parts counter guy at the dealer called it. I see that it acutally goes by 2 different names: Throttle air bypass valve and Idle Air Control Valve.

I stand corrected.

 

Speed_Demon1965 You magnificent !!!!!!!!!!!!
right on the money. I was lucky enough to, Last night, get a complete injected 5 litre for 200 bucks. got it home pushed and shoved it off the pickup and this morning replaced my IAB Valve with the one in the motor I got. And BINGO !!!!
I did dismantle mine. It seemed to move ok, but what the hell would I know... I have spent so much money on mechanics and fuel injection "specialists for jack !!! Thanks to every one too for there assistance. I am extremely grateful........
Regards Bob
now to my next question............................

 

No problem, glad I could be of some help to you and you got it figured out.

You have another question?

 

Yes Speed_Demon1965
Probable more than one question too. you see I have had the pickup for about 9 months and I am working my way through all the problems. As I have said I got a motor last night for 200 and I will rebuild it. (definately need advice there too) Probable start on it next month. But I have 2 other issues at the moment.
1. the temperature gauge shows the engine is not reaching operating temperature. The Gauge on the dash only moves a fraction of an inch no matter how long I have been driving. I replaced the thermostat and nothing changed. The cabin heater is only "just" warm. There is some discoloration from the coolant . Its a red oxide colour or a "mars dust colour" too.
2. I have 2 fuel tanks the front tank stays full all the time, (the gauge shows full and the tank IS full) even If I switch to that tank , It doesn't empty.. I also have 2 LPG tanks so I use that nearly alll the time. But I would like to know If the front tank is not drawing fuel when I switch to it How does it draw fuel from the rear tank. Is this the way Ford designed it? Or can i isolate each tank and and choose which one I want to use.
Im not sure if I wrote that clearly. Hope you can make it out...

 

1. Shouldn't be a problem with the thermostat. Sounds more like a problem with the gauge itself. Your engine coolant sensor for the gauge may be bad. It's a very, very simple sensor and they rarely go bad, but it may have happened. Locate this sensor and try replacing it with the engine you bought (or buy a new sensor). This is NOT the Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor. This is a seperate sensor that reads coolant temperature for your temp gauge. If you don't know where to locate it, I can look it up and tell you where it is.

2. Are you saying the fuel pump doesn't draw fuel from the front tank? I'm not sure how Ford has it setup, but I can look it up in my repair manual.

 

I can't help with your problem, but that's a nice truck you have. I had a '91 F-150 with the 302 and loved it. SOLID and TIGHT. Not a rattle. Sold it when I outgrew the horse trailer I pulled with it, but wish I still had it as a daily driver.

Hope you fix your truck... the old trucks are keepers!! Ford's gotten too carlike in their engine performance and styling with the new trucks, IMHO. 1987-1996 were the best trucks Ford made.

 

That would be good of you if you can look it up for me Speed_Demon1965 ... thanks
2. Yes the fuel must be getting drawn from the rear tank I think.
Un less there is some kinda never emptying tank I have !!!!! mmmmmmm
I wish.....
There was a workshop manual on ebay for 100 bucks about 6 months ago. Damn wished I had of grabbed it, It was in my town too.....

 

Yes Mike it is good and comfortable Its Idea for long distance travel. it holds about 60 gallons of fuel. We have had it on a few trips and was great not stopping every 2 hours for fuel like we had to do in the broncos and I drive "better" when I drive it. I had an 81 Bronco before this and I went through it. Over 3 years and It was a real nice truck when I sold It. We have a real problem with the right hand drive F series . I have had 4 alto gether 78 F100, 81 Bronco, 83 Bronco and this one 89 F150. All had the same problem. Thats is where the Steering box is mounted on the chassis. the chassis cracks and you weld it and it cracks again ands again. And Its always been a problem and Ford have done nothing about it. The mount is no where near as good as the left hand drive mount...

 

You know when I first installed the "new"
IAB it really worked well. Now after taking it for a drive It is now not so good any more. It is not as bad as It was. But the idle doesnt come back to 600 or 700 hundred any more so easily. It now goes up to 1000 revs and takes ages to go below it.

I am going to try to spray the plenum gasket as suggest by
bigbronc ..........
right now ..................

PS One other thing I noticed when I replaced the IAB was the the one on the motor I purchased was dry inside. The one on the pickup was wet with oil on the inside and the black Air hose that is attached to the throtle body (top one) also contained oil not a lot but it was wet all inside it and there was a puddle of oil at the lower end , maybe a table spoon full ... any ideas..?