Time to change plugs. Any tips/wisdom on this? Some say you have to remove fuel rail some say no. Also would like insight on what combination of universals and lengths of extensions would be helpful. I've also heard debate on spark plug socket with insert versus plain old thin wall socket. BTW-what size is that socket-metric or standard? Thanks in advance for all responses.

 

Done it...If you have the 5.4, (I Did not check), you do not need to remove the rails.

Tool List -

Extensions - I purchased a Craftsman 3/8" set - 1", 3", 6", & 12"
Sockets - Need the plug socket to get the plugs out of the deep hole...
COP - Use a 7mm swivel socket, again at Sears.
Plug replacement - a hunk of fuel hose to get the plug started.
Grease - I used grease to hold the bolt that keeps the COP in place to put it down into the hole on #6 & #7.
COP bolts - you need 1/4" drive and extensions for the swivel socket. 3" and 6" will get the job done.
Accessories - a sixer of your favorite adult beverage to calm the nerves!!!

Good luck. Check your gaps. Use dielectric on the boots. Don't over tighten. Its about a 4-5 hour job in a warm garage. Much less with experience.......

 

Yep, it's a 5.4 I have most of the items with the exception of a couple extensions and warmth in my garage. Seattle is a little chilly this time of year! 4-5 hours huh? That would require more than the suggested beverage amount! Happy Holidays and thanks for the reply.

Scott

 

Rockinport-

I second almost all you say, but I just came in to wash up from a plug and COP replacement and would alter what you would recommend in acccessories-a 12 pack is better, maybe 6 while working on the back 4, and then 6 for the recovery period. Those back ones are a real pi$$er ! Runs like silk again.

 

Start with a front one so you can get a feel for what it is like. Once it is out do the 2 back ones. After that the rest is easy. Removing the fuel rail makes it a lot easier. If you do decide to remove it make sure you lightly coat the Injector O rings with a engine oil before you put the rail back on. This will insure that they do not get torn and that they will slip back into the fuel rail or manifold. Never seize on the plug threads will insure that the new ones come out a lot easier. Don't forget to blow shop air in the plug hole to remove any debris before you remove the plugs. MOST IMPORTANT TIP: Do this on a cold engine.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I forgot to mention one more thing that I always do. I get an old egg carton and number the first 4 holes on the right side 1-2-3-4 and the first 4 on the left side 5-6-7-8. I put the plugs in each of the corresponding holes. Then if one of the plugs is soaked in oil I can identify which cylinder that it came out of. I also put the coils in with the plugs. If I am removing the injectors they go in there too. Actually I get a second egg carton as one carton tends to get crowded with all those parts in it.

JMC

 

Just to add to all the good advice above. Put a coating of dielectric grease on the plug boots when re-installing to prevent the boot from bonding to the spark plug (makes it a lot easier to remove in the future) and do not over tighten the spark plug, it is very easy to strip the threads in the cylinder head. Torque to 13ft/lbs. only. Lot of beer, patience and cuss words will get it done. Good luck.

 

Lots of hard liquor, tools, punching bag so that you beat the **** out of your truck