Believe it or not, there IS an issue with dropping a motor DESIGNED to go in a boat in your truck. The desired HP and Torque curves for boat and car operation are much different. We've had a number of customers put "race car motors" in their boats and not even been able to get on plane. They come to us wondering how a 600 HP motor doesn't work. Well, if all that horsepower doesn't happen until 9,000 RPM, there's your problem.

Personally, I think you're asking for more trouble than you can even imagine, but good luck whatever you choose.

 

It sure would be a hell of a lot easier to find a wrecked lightning and transplant that engine. The legality alone would stop me from doing this, not to mention the sheer amount of money and time involved. Literally everything that connects to the engine or drivetrain would have to be changed or modified. My life is too short to mess around with something of this magnitude, simply to use an engine that's already been built. Good luck, you'll need it ,,,,98

 

Spray has a really good point as I was reading down through and was putting it all together in my head I saw the 500HP+35's= one scattered 12 bolt. I would go maybe one step farther. I think in the 70's and part of the 80's almost all the heavy duty rear diffs were Dana in the fords. In the GMs they were either Dana or 14 bolt. I would look for a ford or maybe even (forgive me for this but) dodge dana. It might be a little easier. The other problem with doing this if you try a direct swap to a TH400/Np205 (which is a good choice and can be made almost bullet proof). is that the front diff will be on the wrong side. The older Chevy's had the diff on the passenger side not the driver side. It wasn't until they went to the independent and 241 chain drive tcases that it went to the other side. Unfortunately I know the chevy side much better than the ford side. It is a neat project you are thinking about. I have wanted to take a ford truck and put a chevy engine/trans/tcase etc in it for a long time. The ford is a much nicer more refined truck but it lacks the raw a$$ stomping abilties of the newere GM stuff.

I say go for it!!

Let us know what you are thinking

Mike

 

I agree. It might actually be easier for him to find an older GM chassis 73-87 and just put a Ford body on it. I mean he's pretty much changing everything from the frame down so why not just save time and mega money by bolting a Ford body on the GM chassis? You can find an older K10,20 or 30 truck for mega cheap. Heck I even bought a K5 once for $25. He wouldn't have to worry about making hardcore changes to the frame. Question is does he want EFI or carb? Carb would be mega easy to wire up.

 

Although there is nothing wrong with the 4.6 or 4R70W I can see why you'd want some more power. Besides all the custom fabrication you can make it a little easier on yourself to swap a 9.75 Sterling from a F-150 that had a 5.4 or larger engine in it...LSD and more than enough for your application.

 

For a guy who makes less than a cab driver, this seems to be a penny wise and dollar foolish project.
He will get over it.

 

I have seen a Chevy engine in a Mustang before so it is not out of the question.

But, it appears you live in California. How would you ever get this one past the emmissions/inspection people?

 

LOL,LOL,LOL,LOL,LOL,,,, RAOUL, thats by far the funniest thing ive read todate. I CANT STOP LAUGHING MY BUTT OFF. Ive been in a ****ty mode lately and that really was great to read. TY

BY The Way. It was a Jet Boat. PROP would miss the pavement by 4 inches at-least. LOL

And for the last three or four replies, Thank You as well big time. I like it when people are motivating to see others " GET UR DONE "

Tom , the wiring im concerned with is the Instrument panel mostly. Its digital and pics up the signals from the Engine and Body controller does'nt i believe. Wiring the alternator, and engine electrical wont be an issue. 454 dont need much wiring, especially with caburation.

Spray, its a 4x2 truck. I thought of the Dana 44 but was wondering if it would be too narrow for a full size truck. Im only familiar with 454 motors, so all the rest thats pertaining to trans and rear end is 101 to me, and thats why im greatful for these awesome reply's heading me in directions that work.

Anyone have a connection at FORD MOTORSPORTS TECH DEPT, thats into this sort of stuff ??????????????????

Thanks Again Guys

 

Hmm dont know how well Ford Motorsports would wanna help with wiring up a GM motor in your Ford truck. Well now knowing that your truck is a 4x2 its even worse. You'll most likely have to stiffen your frame some as well. The D44 would work, typcially they are wider than most rear ends, especially if you get a front and rear axle from the same vehicle. D44's came on lots of 1/2 ton and 3/4 trucks actually. In all honesty, putting the body on a GM chassis will save you time, money, thrown wrenches and asking God to forgive for all the kind words you had to say during the process.

 

He can't, unless the engine is emissions legal, and the same year or newer than the vehicle. That has been my main point so far. Even I couldn't do it without a bribe, and that costs big bucks, lol.,,,,98

 

Well, thats not even a problem. My cars are registered in a state that doesnt require emissions testing. Thats the only reason im doing this. It's almost impossible these days to pay anyone to test under the table.

Smog guys make so much money these days, they wont risk it anymore.

 

Well I guess there are two ways to do this project. First and maybe the easisest would be to adapt the body over to a chasis with the proper components. If you want to stay 2wd then it will be a little easier. The other option is to stick with the ford chasis and swap out the running gear. That will probably be a lot of fabrication (motomounts, tranny crossmember, etc.) Then comes the rear diff. I am not sure if the frames are still the same width they used to be. I know the 97 f250's had a weird frame width (bad experience with finding a trailer hitch) as it was the transition year to the new style. It may be really difficult to find a rear diff with the right width on the springs for that frame. Then even if you do you may need to change the spring hangers (more than likely I would say). Next comes the electrical systems. The bbc doesn't require a lot indeed but a really simple way to handle it would be to go to all aftermarket gauges, an MSD or equivalent type of aftermarket ignition. I'm sure in a haynes manual you could find the solenoid and starter wires up under the dash. I really think the best bet is to gut the electrical system and go aftermarket all the way. It would all be reliable and would be much simpler to do. Even the speedo would be handled because going to an older GM tranny would push you to use a mechanical speedo anyway. Tach can be taken care of with after market. May need some work in fitting into the dash but I'm sure it can be done.

Wow, that sounds like a lot. It is a doable project but you will really have to decide what direction you want to go in. And I wouldnt try to dig through the electrical system too much as they are so integrated through the computer and the computer really needs to die to make this all work. Got me all excited there for a bit. I haven't had a good project to work on for a while!

Good Luck!!!

 

Okay, I hate to keep going on but this really got me thinking. Time to move to the front end. There may be serious clearance issues up front. A bbc is not a small engine. The big problem is at the distributor sticks up dead center in the back. To get that thing shoehorned into the engine compartment you may have to get really creative with the motor mounts and that still may not be enough. Moving it forward would be the logical thing to do but that would cause a major cooling system problem. Getting a radiator that would fit could be a real problem especially one that would handle the cooling capacity needed for that big block in traffic and towing. On to the motor next. Someone brought up a really good point about the HP and torque curves. You may need to re-cam it and do some serious rejetting. The heads (whatever they may be) may not be designed for street or even mild strip use coming from a boat built engine. That brings us to yet one more interesting challenge... exhaust. I would bet that headers would never fit between the frame rails if everything else is moved around to fit. Even standard manifolds may not fit. You could always just put a set of zoomies up through the hood!

You know I really hope you decide to do this. It makes me want to start a similar project of my own.

Sorry to keep rambling on but the brain just won't turn off.

 

Since they're not registered in CA, then more power to you. No pun intended, haha. I tend to forget that the 97-03 Ford engines are set WAY back under the firewall. That's a good point! You may have to make an access door in the top of the dash to adjust the timing. Not making fun of the project, but that's a fact. Maybe it could be rigged to run a crank trigger system, but then again, more money required. It sounds like a lot of hassle, but I bet it will be one fun truck with that sort of power.,,,,98

 

just sell the truck and buy a different one if you got that much time and money to screw with all that.