I've always used Motorcraft 5w30 full syn.and a Motorcraft filter and never had a problem.I did try Mobil 1 5w30 once and on really cold mornings (-35 to -45 deg.c) the engine still gave a few ticks before the oil got moving?With the Motorcraft no ticky.

 

I use Mobil 1 0W/20 on my FX4, and no problems what so ever.

And for those questioning synthetics, my 99' BMW 328I came with synthetic 5W/40 from the factory since day one, and does not burn or leak oil to this day (88,000 miles). I now use Mobil 1 0W/40 on the Bimmer, and change the oil at twice the recommended intervals at every 7,500 miles (the factory recommended 15,000 miles is too long to wait IMO). My FX4 I change every 7,500 miles as well.

 

How about redline synthetic oil. I just saw it at the store and it was 7.88 per quart. 5w-20. I have never heard of this oil but will research it. I also saw castrol full syn 5w-20 and the mobil 1 ow-20. thanks again.

 

Not sure what site you got that from .

The base stocks are different, synths being engineered for high-stress environments.

Esters (group v synthetic oil) can be used in place of mineral oil to carry the additive package. In which case.......the entire product is synthetic. Redline and Mobil 1 are two such oils...


Additive packs can be similar from dino to synth amongst good oil, so it domes down to a base stock that is closer to that found in nature, vs. a base stock from the lab.


In fact, the following general types of additives are found in all motor oils:
Viscosity-index improvers modify the oil so its viscosity is more consistent over a wide temperature range.

Antioxidants prevent the oil from thickening when it runs hot for extended periods.

Dispersants keep contaminants suspended so they don't form deposits in engine.

Detergents help prevent varnish and sludge on engine parts and neutralize acid formed in engine.

Rust and corrosion inhibitors protect metal parts from acids and water formed in engine.

Pour-point depressants help the oil flow in a cold engine, especially in cold weather.

Friction modifiers strengthen the oil film and prevent unlubricated contact between moving parts.

Foam inhibitors collapse the bubbles churned up by engine crankshaft. (Foam reduces lubricating effectiveness.)

Antiwear agents provide lubrication when oil is squeezed out from between moving engine parts.


Here's are a few excerpts from an interviews with ExxonMobil engineers:
"Q: Is Mobil 1 a fully synthetic oil?

A: Yes, it’s 100% synthetic. The base stocks used in blending Mobil 1 are all "chemically constructed" instead of being simply segregated out of crude oil like conventional mineral oils.

Q: How a Fully Synthetic oil differs from Conventional Oil ?

Conventional motor oils are refined from crude oil that has been pumped from the ground. While petroleum refining is an advanced science, naturally occurring components, such as sulfur, reactive hydrocarbons and other materials, can never be completely removed from petroleum, and thus may end up in conventional motor oil base stocks.
Fully synthetic lubricants are formulated in several ways, using high-performance synthetic base oils. These products are produced either through a chemical reaction called "synthesis", severe refining or other complex chemical processes that yield a molecular uniformity and degree of purity that is impossible to achieve through normal refining process.
"

Mineral oils are by not categorized with synthetic oils (Bosch Automotive Handbook, 3rd Edition, page 225).

Wards Auto World noted the difference also in this article (http://wardsauto.com/ar/auto_exxon_m...oves/index.htm):
"From there, mineral oil changed regularly versus synthetic changed less often becomes difficult to evaluate without elaborate test data."


Here's a good overview of differences amongst dine vs. synthetics (http://www.dezmo.com/gordononoil.html):
___Over the last couple of decades we have seen the rise of "synthetic" and "synthetic blend" base stocks in motor oils. _The big difference between plain old refined oil and synthetic is the the latter is, well, synthesized. _When crude oil is refined, it is effectively sifted. _The SAE 30 base stock you get in the sifting operation represents an average of molecule sizes, some being larger and others smaller. _Shearing in a running engine breaks the big molecules apart faster than the little ones, which reduces the average size of molecules in the oil and thins it.
_____In contrast, synthetic base stocks' molecules are uniform in size, having been assembled out of fragments in a molecular stew. _Synthetic oils also contain none of the waxes that can block low-temperature flow, and none of the instant-sludge crude-oil cruds or aromatics that vaporize and drift away the first time a spark plug fires anywhere near them.


Dont be afraid of the complex chemestries involved, even crude oil is quite complex as it leaves the ground.

At any rate, since top-line Porsches, Ferarri, Vette, Aston Martin, and on and on and on, all specify synthetic lubes, that's what I'm going with also.

Plus, a few years back Mercedes-Benz quietly settled a class-action lawsuit relating to premature engine failures. Because they "forgot" to tell customers that synthetic oils are to be used in vehicles equipped with their Flexible Service System, people were running 10K - 20K miles on dino oil, and the thousands of engines failed. You can do a search to find out about this - I worked for an M-B's vendor at the time, it was a nightmare. Cost them millions $$$...

(BTW - I'm no chemist, but I was a bio-chem major for nearly 3 years, so I have at least a little chem knowledge )

Ok, between copying/pasting & typing, my fingers hurt. We may just have to agree...to disagree.

 

we have some reallt good info back here, basicly it is strong to the
fact that some syn's are full syn's but not all syn's are made
the same,and whith the testing I do,the bottle does not say
all the best tjat it should,and most syn's are not all derived of class III IV or V base, and even worse after they start so many
fall apart with the addatives that the end user gets poor oil.
sticking with Pure Power!

salty--- no castrol please,redline maybe.

 

You are clearly a Pure Power distributor. Just about everyone of your posts has a link to them or mention of them.

www.amsoil.com

Right back at you Beachboy.