Need code and egr valve help!!!
Need code and egr valve help!!!
1994 F150 45,000 miles, 5.0
My check engine light popped on for the first time the other day. My bud has access to a snap-on code reader. We plugged it in, ran the test and this is the code displayed before the snap on battery died.
code 10 snap throttle
311 themal air system not working bank 1
332 egr valve not opening
evp pfe
So what's my next step. I'm thinking-replace EGR valve.
What do you intelligent guys think? Will I mess the engine up running it in this condition. This has not affected the running at all.
It seems the check engine light is delayed coming on if it's real cold out side. Takes about 1/2mile to come on verses and few yards when it's warm outside.
Thanks Brian A
My check engine light popped on for the first time the other day. My bud has access to a snap-on code reader. We plugged it in, ran the test and this is the code displayed before the snap on battery died.
code 10 snap throttle
311 themal air system not working bank 1
332 egr valve not opening
evp pfe
So what's my next step. I'm thinking-replace EGR valve.
What do you intelligent guys think? Will I mess the engine up running it in this condition. This has not affected the running at all.
It seems the check engine light is delayed coming on if it's real cold out side. Takes about 1/2mile to come on verses and few yards when it's warm outside.
Thanks Brian A
MOre then likely a defective egr sensor. (plastic doodad that bolts on top of the egr valve.
Easy to test w/ ohmeter and vacuum gauge. I do although think it would be a good bet that it's **** up.
My .002
Easy to test w/ ohmeter and vacuum gauge. I do although think it would be a good bet that it's **** up.
My .002
On a 94, you can read codes with a paperclip. Don't need a scanner on most pre-96 Fords....
The 332 code is the same as the P0401 code on later 96-on vehicles. Same likely causes - in order of likelihood- clogged EGR ports, faulty DPFE sensor, EGR valve, EVR solenoid, PCM.
To isolate, remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve, attach a short length of tubing, then suck on the tubing while the engine is idling. If the EGR valve is operating AND the ports are clear, the idle should dip and possibly stall the engine. If so, concentrate on the DPFE and the EVR side of the system.
If there was no change in idle during the test, then either the EGR valve is defective (not that common) or the ports are clogged (very common). If you feel like it, you can pull the EGR valve and repeat the vacuum test while watching the valve operate. It's easy to do. Also, check to make sure the EGR valve doesn't drop vacuum internally as this is a sign of a ruptured diaphram.
Start with these steps and see what you find.
Do not just start throwing parts at it and hope you fix it. Waste of money.
Steve
The 332 code is the same as the P0401 code on later 96-on vehicles. Same likely causes - in order of likelihood- clogged EGR ports, faulty DPFE sensor, EGR valve, EVR solenoid, PCM.
To isolate, remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve, attach a short length of tubing, then suck on the tubing while the engine is idling. If the EGR valve is operating AND the ports are clear, the idle should dip and possibly stall the engine. If so, concentrate on the DPFE and the EVR side of the system.
If there was no change in idle during the test, then either the EGR valve is defective (not that common) or the ports are clogged (very common). If you feel like it, you can pull the EGR valve and repeat the vacuum test while watching the valve operate. It's easy to do. Also, check to make sure the EGR valve doesn't drop vacuum internally as this is a sign of a ruptured diaphram.
Start with these steps and see what you find.
Do not just start throwing parts at it and hope you fix it. Waste of money.
Steve



