K & N Filters
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 379
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From: Eau Claire / Milwaukee, WI; USA
- My974x4F150
Originally posted by DDan1967
I shot the MAS the next day and my power is back and so far the MPG is looking better too. I'll know for sure tomorrow when I fill-up.
Doug
I shot the MAS the next day and my power is back and so far the MPG is looking better too. I'll know for sure tomorrow when I fill-up.
Doug
So I'm up to 15.5 MPG on a '97 with 198,000 miles, I'll admit to having a little fun with the extra Ooph on the line. I'll take it easy on the trottle this week and see what it does.
Also I just got the truck last month so I'm still in the process of lots of preventative maintenace work. I'll see what the MPG looks like after I'm done.
As far as cost of the Fram AirHog at Wallyworld. I got it here for $46.97. The best price I found for a K&N drop in was at our local Farm & Fleet store for $49.99.
Doug
Last edited by DDan1967; Nov 3, 2004 at 10:43 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Enfield Ct.
Dude, maybe I'm to late I just joined this online thing today. But I am her to tell you to get the whole cold air intake kit. I put mine on this past weekend, and was blown away. My zero to 60 time went from like 10 seconds to under 8 seconds. I also know my gas mileage went way up. I was averaging around 14 miles to the gallon for just everyday use. I hauled 3/4 of a coord of hard wood and pulled a trailer at the same time loaded for about 180 miles. My gas mileage for that trip was 14 miles to the gallon. it wasn't an easy haul either, I had to through the Berkshire mountains in Western Massachusetts on my way from Central New York to northern Connecticut. Definately get the whole kit. 
Let me know how you make out?
Let me know how you make out?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Boise, ID
Originally posted by max mitchell
These are what I used on my 2000 5.4.
chip/tuner: Superchips; www.troyerperformance.com ; prices vary by model. I used the #1100 on my 2000 5.4 and currently own the #1714 and the #9100.
complete air intake: K&N FIPK; Summit; $225. They all have similar results, but I prefer 50-state CARB certification, plastic design to reduce heat soak like the factory setup, and long term reputation. I had no dirt in mine and rarely cleaned it because I always use an Outerwears cover on open filters.
exhaust: I tried JBA and Bassani shorty headers and don't recommend them based on my results per dollar. I chopped the entire exhaust off and ran a 3" mandrel bent single exhaust similar to the factory setup. This involved a 2.5" mandrel bent 90 degree bend added at the driver's side exhaust crossover; J.C.Whitney; $10. I added a Flowmaster 2)2.5"in/1)3"out universal Y-pipe; Summit; $30. This was welded to a 3" Dynomax Ultra-flow cat-back using only straight pipe; www.a-1performance.com ; custom kit; $300.
underdrive pulleys; www.aspracing.com ; $200
rear end gears; www.usgear.com ; $300 + installation kit.
electric fans; I tried several, I recommend this one: www.madenterprise.com/F150.htm ; prices on website.
shift kit/valve body; www.baumannengineering.com/aodecat.htm ; used in combination with a #1100 standard tune Superchips. I like to tailor my shifts. I recommend the FTVB now that it's available for the 4R70W; can be purchased at www.troyerperformance.com ; prices on website. Yes, the chip increases the shift firmness beyond the valve body calibration.
All items self installed.
These are what I used on my 2000 5.4.
chip/tuner: Superchips; www.troyerperformance.com ; prices vary by model. I used the #1100 on my 2000 5.4 and currently own the #1714 and the #9100.
complete air intake: K&N FIPK; Summit; $225. They all have similar results, but I prefer 50-state CARB certification, plastic design to reduce heat soak like the factory setup, and long term reputation. I had no dirt in mine and rarely cleaned it because I always use an Outerwears cover on open filters.
exhaust: I tried JBA and Bassani shorty headers and don't recommend them based on my results per dollar. I chopped the entire exhaust off and ran a 3" mandrel bent single exhaust similar to the factory setup. This involved a 2.5" mandrel bent 90 degree bend added at the driver's side exhaust crossover; J.C.Whitney; $10. I added a Flowmaster 2)2.5"in/1)3"out universal Y-pipe; Summit; $30. This was welded to a 3" Dynomax Ultra-flow cat-back using only straight pipe; www.a-1performance.com ; custom kit; $300.
underdrive pulleys; www.aspracing.com ; $200
rear end gears; www.usgear.com ; $300 + installation kit.
electric fans; I tried several, I recommend this one: www.madenterprise.com/F150.htm ; prices on website.
shift kit/valve body; www.baumannengineering.com/aodecat.htm ; used in combination with a #1100 standard tune Superchips. I like to tailor my shifts. I recommend the FTVB now that it's available for the 4R70W; can be purchased at www.troyerperformance.com ; prices on website. Yes, the chip increases the shift firmness beyond the valve body calibration.
All items self installed.
Great info, thanks!
Few more questions though...
1) What gearset ratio did you go with?
2) When you chopped the exhaust did you keep the aftermarket headers? Whats size are the collectors? Why the 2.5" bend added to 3" pipe?
3) Not being familiar with the components on the '01 5.4 F-150, I want to ask what the stock alt. puts out and if the pullys hurt charging any.
Thanks again and keep the info coming!
-Matt
Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 0
1) 4.10s
2) I had the exhaust system with and without headers. Shorty headers fit directly in place of the factory manifolds. The flange size and head pipe diameter is 2.5". The 2.5" 90 is to redirect the driver's side head pipe into the aftermarket Y-pipe. Installation pictures of the various Y-pipes can be searched in the exhaust section. The entire single pipe section was 3".
3) 95 amp V-8, 130 amp V-6 and Class III V-8s. I never had a charging problem in 4 years with the pulleys. Slight headlight dimming is a possibility during heavy electrical use, but they perk right up off idle. You get full charging at 850rpms.
2) I had the exhaust system with and without headers. Shorty headers fit directly in place of the factory manifolds. The flange size and head pipe diameter is 2.5". The 2.5" 90 is to redirect the driver's side head pipe into the aftermarket Y-pipe. Installation pictures of the various Y-pipes can be searched in the exhaust section. The entire single pipe section was 3".
3) 95 amp V-8, 130 amp V-6 and Class III V-8s. I never had a charging problem in 4 years with the pulleys. Slight headlight dimming is a possibility during heavy electrical use, but they perk right up off idle. You get full charging at 850rpms.
Last edited by max mitchell; Nov 4, 2004 at 09:12 PM.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 59
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From: Oregon
Well, because of the lack of MONEY I did go get the K&N drop in Filter. The full kit will come soon. I'll fill it up in the morning and check MPG over the weekend, got a longer trip ahead of me... It will be hard to keep the foot out of it. I immediately noticed an increase in power off the line. Also seemed to tune my exhust a little as well. It will be hard to check MPG, especially around town with my foot in it always. The 97 has a 25 gal tank, and I get from 1-1.5 better MPG if I run Super through it That is still only 12 in town and 16 on the highway. On a full tank that is only $5.00 more, and the benifit of no pinging when getting on it is definately worth it.
I was also told to reset the computer after doing performance upgrades. I did do this but is it necessary?
I love my truck
I was also told to reset the computer after doing performance upgrades. I did do this but is it necessary?
I love my truck
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
This is what my truck looked like after only 5 days of eating Idaho dust while on a camping trip at Kelly Creek...
My K&N filter stopped all of the dust and when I got home, it looked like this.
I brushed off the excess accumulated dust and reoiled it per the instructions for "driving in dusty conditions" for the K&N filter.
I also took a pic of the inside of the intake tube, but it did not come out too well (too dark), but it was VERY CLEAN and did not have any dust residue on my "white glove test".... The fender well side (filter end) of the cover was totally coated in dust!
There was another truck in our group that ate just as much dust as I did and he was running a standard paper filter and he reported that his mpg's on the trip home "sucked"...... Once he got home and checked his filter, it "looked" the same as mine, but it was not flowing any air, that's for sure.........
Here is what the engine looked like after I cleaned it...
I'm still on the same $50.00 drop in filter that I bought 3.5 years ago and have only cleaned it ONCE!!
I've never had a MAF problem, I've never had a CEL because of the filter...... When I did clean the filter, I had to put the stock paper one in while I let the K&N dry...... I could tell a difference right away with the slightly less throttle response, and the fact my truck had to downshift on a grade I take on a daily basis and go the same speed up and with the K&N, it does not downshift... With the paper filter, it downshifts.......
Good luck!
Mitch
My K&N filter stopped all of the dust and when I got home, it looked like this.
I brushed off the excess accumulated dust and reoiled it per the instructions for "driving in dusty conditions" for the K&N filter.
I also took a pic of the inside of the intake tube, but it did not come out too well (too dark), but it was VERY CLEAN and did not have any dust residue on my "white glove test".... The fender well side (filter end) of the cover was totally coated in dust!
There was another truck in our group that ate just as much dust as I did and he was running a standard paper filter and he reported that his mpg's on the trip home "sucked"...... Once he got home and checked his filter, it "looked" the same as mine, but it was not flowing any air, that's for sure.........
Here is what the engine looked like after I cleaned it...
I'm still on the same $50.00 drop in filter that I bought 3.5 years ago and have only cleaned it ONCE!!
I've never had a MAF problem, I've never had a CEL because of the filter...... When I did clean the filter, I had to put the stock paper one in while I let the K&N dry...... I could tell a difference right away with the slightly less throttle response, and the fact my truck had to downshift on a grade I take on a daily basis and go the same speed up and with the K&N, it does not downshift... With the paper filter, it downshifts.......
Good luck!
Mitch
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
Just a can of that 'foamy' engine cleaner stuff. Let it sit a few and then used my pressure washer to rinse it off..... Then I sprayed on some of that Eagle "tire wet" tire dressing on it to get it to shine.... While, that makes it look really cool, after awhile, it's just a maganet for more dust........
NOTE, I did not get any closer then 18-24" when I was rinsing off the top of the engine or the firewall. I just let the "mist" of the washer do it's thing. A lot less volume of water doing it that way, but it rinses it off well.
I did spray the underside of the truck too and used the PW to clean it up as well. I got pretty wet, but it did a good job!
NOTE, I did not get any closer then 18-24" when I was rinsing off the top of the engine or the firewall. I just let the "mist" of the washer do it's thing. A lot less volume of water doing it that way, but it rinses it off well.
I did spray the underside of the truck too and used the PW to clean it up as well. I got pretty wet, but it did a good job!