is this a hard to do job on a 97 5.4.....it has coil packs never dealt with this stuff

 

Hi birddogone, Im a newb too!

Plug changes on the 5.4 seem a little bit of work, but nothing a decently mechanical person couldnt handle. Im gonna try it the first weekend I have available.

GOOD LUCK!!

www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html
Give this a look and decide for yourself.

Hope this helps!

Sumo

 

Hey someone is posting my article! LOL thats cool, I love it when it helps people out. Did you know that spark plug article page has received over 8,000 hits? Thats awesome.

 

Hey Matt

Couldnt help it man!! It was a good write up and will be of use to me...Im sure it has helped lots of guys (and gals) out there with their plug changes.

GOOD JOB!!

Sumo

 

HeY Matt

I thought I read on "Blown out plug " thread not to use anti seize.


coolfords

 

ok here u go did mine last week
first you need a 1/4 inch rattchet and ext and a 7 mm socket(for the blots that hold the coils down)
after u unplug the wires from the coil packs take out the bolts and pull up and out ( tip lay each one down in the order u took out )
then spark plug socket on a 6 inch ext and reach down in the tubesand take them out (tip if u have a small mirror try to look down the tubes first if there is dirt or anything use a blow gun to blow it out) to put the new plugs in take out the plug sockets rubber insert or you ll play hell trying to get the socket back out
i took it out and used a magnet to pull up the plugs
any way its not that bad took me 2 hours to do (sounds like a lot but it was a first)
i found its easier on the driver side to do if you take the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail on out and pull it up off the injectors and move it out of the way a bit ( just make sure that you put the little rubber oring back on the injector when you put it on



it sound like a big chore but its not that bad just keep your cool and lay on something soft he he any ? just ask

 

I've always been told to use anti-sieze... dont glop it on there, but a little bit in the threads at least, if you don't, you might increase your chances of a blown plug slightly, but you'd also make it a nightmare to remove them again.

 

The plugs use fine threads so they will not vibrate loose if properly tightened. . As there are only about 6 threads on some of the plugs and 4-5 on the head itself holding the plug in place to begin with you need every one of them to hold. Part of the design flaw is where the threads on the head are located. They have to be at the bottom of the plug hole so that carbon build up on the threads doesn't impeed removal. Looks like Ford wanted to save a few bucks on machining costs and also on manufacturing costs by making installation easier. The top part of the plug hole has no threads so the plug naturally wants to slide down straight and not be cross threaded. It is actually quite difficult to cross thread these suckers. It is the repeated removal and installation of the plugs that tear at the aluminum. With only 4 worn out aluminum threads holding the plug it will eventually pop. I use antiseize on mine but the choice is yours.

JMC

 

There is nothing wrong with using a anti-seize compound on your spark plugs. Even in aviation "helicopters" we use anti-seize on our igniter plugs "spark plugs" and when maintenance is due again it makes the job alot easier taking them out. Ton of vibration in a helicopter and never do the plugs work themselves loose. This is clearly an issue with torque. With the right amount of torque you should'nt have any problems with plugs working themseleves loose.