I read in the spark plug threads (no pun intended!) here about the long-reach socket I should use, and to NOT using anti-sieze on the threads, but I would like to know:

1. Is it OK to use a pneumatic torque wrench to loosen the plugs?

2. HOW do you get a torque wrench on the "back" plugs to torque the new plugs, and if it's possible, is it ONLY possible with a short-handled wrench? Where do you find a short-handled torque wrench? I've only seen the long-handled ones.

3. Is it POSSIBLE (or reliable) to torque with a pneumatic wrench? I just got a spankin' new compressor, and I'm itchin to use it.

Basically, I want to line up the tools needed so I can make this a one-day job, with no emergency trips to the NAPA store (which will no doubt be closed at the hour I need them to be open).

Thanks, and any additional info would be appreciated.

Oh, '97 F150, 4.6L, 247,000 miles, plugs HAVE been changed before by dealer.

 

Hello,

I used the information on this 'spark plug blowout' thread for changing my plugs.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=103042

Definitely worth the read.. there are some preventive and diagnostic tips too regarding the spark plug blowout issues.

If I would have known to the 'ticking noise' advice I would have saved myself alot of money by just tightening my plugs.

 

 

Do not usa a pneumatic tool on a plug. I use anti-seize for plugs on my spark plugs and they do not blow out. If you tighten the plugs right they will not loosen even with the anti-seize. This is the product that I use.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1288650

I use a plug socket, one 6" and one 3" extension. I also remove the Fuel rails becasue I do not like having to use a universal joint when doing plugs. I have yet to use a torque wrench. I go by feel. Do it on a cold engine becasue the heat will make the rubber insert on the plug socket fall out and possibly drop the plug in the hole. I start on the driver side at the rear and work my way to the front then do the same on the passenger side. If you can do the difficult ones your reward is to finish on an easy one.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

agree with the other posts, i always use anti seize on the plug threads. dieletric grease on the tops. torque by hand and by feel. good luck.

 

No. Even coming out, it's real easy to bugger up the threads. Doing these the old fashioned way by hand is the best way.

Honestly, unless the engine's out the truck, I don't torque them myself...just a slight "umph," and let 'em ride.

No sir...you will hate life if you bugger up any spark plug threads on that motor. Just take your time and pull and reinstall them by hand.

Luck!

 

I have a 2000 F-150 Off Road. I have not changed the plugs because I only have 35,000 miles on my truck. I bought a snap-on 6 inch socket as I wanted to check the torque on the plugs. I bought a 3/8 inch drive Sears torque wrench and checked the torque on my plugs. They were tight at the 11 ft pounds called for in my shop manual. I had no problem with this set up and did not use any swivels but I may have used a short extenson.
I did not remove the fuel rails. My Ford Shop Manual does not recommend using anti seize compound.
Warren

 

I did not see anything at all in the Helm manual about anti seize on plugs. Regardless I will use it even if they say no. If you can point me to where it is in the manual I will be sure to include the warning in any future posts.

JMC

 

I changed my plugs yesterday do to a persistant hesitation issue. The electrodes on my old plugs were eroded away and the gap must have been 0.070"+. Mileage is 54K.

Anyway, 8 plugs later, and my drivability problems are solved. I used anti-seeze and di-electric grease and tightened them without a torque wrench. We'll see. The old ones came out hard, and didn't want to run the risk of galling the heads when I put the new ones in.

I used Motorcraft AGSF32FM platinum plugs. The only difference is that the new plugs were threaded all way.

 

I got six of eight plugs changed out today, 1, 2, 5 through 8. Will finish the other two tomorrow. I have the 4.6 engine, but five of the six plugs were in the 0.080" to 0.085" gap range that I pulled out of the engine. I also decided to start changing the plugs and wires because it was hesitating during acceleration...plus it has 111K miles on it.

I also noticed the plugs that came out were not fully threaded, but the new ones are (in my case, I am putting in 432PPM Motorcraft plugs).

Hesitation is already gone, but I might as well replace the last two, I am NOT looking forward to changing out the #4 plug.