Anyone have a picture of the iac on a 5.4

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 3, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #16  
Johngs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 0
From: Aggieland, TX
Yeah, Im still not sure why it wouldn't go in like it should have.

 
Reply
Old May 3, 2004 | 10:47 PM
  #17  
temp1's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,490
Likes: 0
From: Topeka Kansas
Oh well. Im going to try shorter bolts with washers for the rear COPs.

 
Reply
Old May 3, 2004 | 10:58 PM
  #18  
Dan7's Avatar
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Thanks for posting those pics, mine is making a subtle whine when I hit the throtle. Last time I looked back there I wasnt sure where exactly it was, now I do, thanks a bunch.
 
Reply
Old May 4, 2004 | 09:06 AM
  #19  
kdesjard's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Does anyone use anything on the threads for the COP bolts? anti-seize or oil ??

thanks.
 
Reply
Old May 4, 2004 | 09:27 AM
  #20  
kruck's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Smithfield, VA
Awesome Thread!!!!

 
Reply
Old May 4, 2004 | 12:13 PM
  #21  
Johngs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 0
From: Aggieland, TX
Originally posted by kdesjard
Does anyone use anything on the threads for the COP bolts? anti-seize or oil ??

thanks.
I wouldn't say it's necessary for those...never heard of them getting rusted or anything like that.
 
Reply
Old May 6, 2004 | 07:33 AM
  #22  
kdesjard's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Originally posted by Johngs
I wouldn't say it's necessary for those...never heard of them getting rusted or anything like that.
I had removed one of my COP's to learning what these things are all about. The bolts made squeaking noises when coming out and going in. I was thinking that it would make sense to put something on the threads to make them go in easier. Should the bolts be replaced when changing plugs? I am worried about breaking one of these thin bolts.

Thx
 
Reply
Old May 6, 2004 | 10:14 AM
  #23  
JMC's Avatar
JMC
Technical Article Contributor
25 Year Member
Joined: Dec 1997
Posts: 9,417
Likes: 11
From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
I re-gapped my plugs last week and I used never seize on the COP bolts. I cleaned the bolt threads with a wire wheel and then coated them with never seize. I was able to hand tighten them and then just use a 7mm socket to tighten them up. I off road my truck and the ends were dirty. Silly me I did the passenger side one at a time. Then when my brain started working I removed all 4 of the driver side at one time and cleaned them all at the same time. FYI I would not leave a COP coil loose. Get a tap and chase the threads or find a self tapping bolt.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
Reply
Old May 6, 2004 | 11:54 AM
  #24  
Johngs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 0
From: Aggieland, TX
Originally posted by kdesjard
I had removed one of my COP's to learning what these things are all about. The bolts made squeaking noises when coming out and going in. I was thinking that it would make sense to put something on the threads to make them go in easier. Should the bolts be replaced when changing plugs? I am worried about breaking one of these thin bolts.

Thx
Well, it wouldn't hurt to put some anti-sieze on those as well
Like JMC said I wouldnt replace the bolts, just clean them up with a wire brush or something.
 
Reply
Old May 6, 2004 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
temp1's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,490
Likes: 0
From: Topeka Kansas
Originally posted by JMC
I re-gapped my plugs last week and I used never seize on the COP bolts. I cleaned the bolt threads with a wire wheel and then coated them with never seize. I was able to hand tighten them and then just use a 7mm socket to tighten them up. I off road my truck and the ends were dirty. Silly me I did the passenger side one at a time. Then when my brain started working I removed all 4 of the driver side at one time and cleaned them all at the same time. FYI I would not leave a COP coil loose. Get a tap and chase the threads or find a self tapping bolt.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
I could not find self-tapping bolts since our hardware stores were closed. I went to Lowes to get the 8mm hex head bolts. I ended up using the 16mm length and they grabbed enough to grip good and keep the COP coils tight. I did not use any washers with the bolts cause I did not wan't to chance it falling down into the spark plug hole. I thought about JB weld with the washer and bolt but did not pursue it.
 
Reply
Old May 13, 2004 | 05:06 PM
  #26  
temp1's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,490
Likes: 0
From: Topeka Kansas
Originally posted by Johngs
Um, I havent really seen any, but it is not hard actually.

You only need a 5/16 socket and a 10mm socket and a 10mm deep, along with some extensions, and maybe a wobble joint. Also, if you have a magnet stick thing, I would keep that around. And then 2 or 3 cans of the TB cleaner.

Remove the intake stuff, then (on my '97) the two throttle cables are held on with 2 5/16" bolts, slide out the two cables, and then remove the 4 5/16" bolts holding the throttle body to the adapter. Remove the two cables from the throttle body and set it aside.
I sprayed all the bolts with PBBlaster and got them all to turn so I feel good about the bolts. The one EGR bolt acted like it was welded in there but it finally turned. I did not remove the DPFE bracket so I don't know how that bolt will turn yet. The two throttle cables do not have bolts on my 1999 F150 5.4L engine. The throttle cables are disconnected quickly by hand. I think I can remove the throttle body in 5 or 10 minutes easily.

Its kind of cold today here in Kansas so I decided to wait till it warms up again before I remove it. Thanks for the instructions!

 

Last edited by temp1; May 13, 2004 at 05:11 PM.
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:52 AM.