I am about to change the plugs in my 2001 4.6 and I have been waiting for a reason to do this. I think I got my reason as I just had a hard acceleration pop happen as I went from wide open throttle 75MPH to zero throttle 75MPH. I have a few questions and I can't find any threads about plug changes that aren't about '97s and such. I think I have some answers, but I would like verification and/or correction before I start.

BTW I have 46K miles, SuperChip, K&N and have run Mobil 1 since 3K Miles. Fuel filter has been changed at 30K.

1) What size are the bolts holding the Coil packs?
(Use a Sears 7mm swivel 1/4 drive?)
2) Can it be done without removing the fuel rails?
(I hope so)
3) Just go with the Motorcraft Double Plats?
(leaning towards yes, I just want to get back like new)
(is there a temperature choice for said plugs?)
4) What gap?
(Is .054 right?)
5) Put anything on the plugs before removal?
(Penetrating oil?)
6) Put anything on the threads after?
(Thread lock or neverseez?)
7) Completely cold engine right?
(aluminum heads yes?)
8) Run the Sea Foam treatment for a little while before?
(then change the oil too?)
8) Do you have any other tips or links to help?

Any model numbers, part numbers, advice, etc. will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul

 

I'll need all this info as well, as I have 42K and I want to do them at about 50K. Maybe it has been beaten to death already? I figure if I really have to tear into it, I'll remove the TB at the same time to clean the EGR ports. Hopefully my Seafoam treatments help them out, but I doubt it.

 

Hey jackal sorry I don't have the answers you need,but would love to see pics of your s-cab flareside. Have one too and about to crank the torsion bar and add 33x12.50 [list][/list 99 f150 s-cab flareside 5.4 v8 westin brushguard westin nerf bars hid blue headlights fog lights 285/75/16 tires polished rims flowmaster Y exhaust chrome gibson tips k&n air filter(soon to be torsion bar crank 33x12.50 baja claws haven't decided on m/t or radial though)

 

Hey man. Just click the link in my sig.

 

Spark Plug gap should be between .052 and .056, so .054 is ok. Im pretty sure alot of plugs are pre-gapped to this. On the 4.6, you shouldnt have to remove the fuel rails. I may be wrong but im pretty sure you can do this without removing them. Change your plugs when the engine is cold and with the negative battery terminal removed in case of any spark, etc. Also, but a SMALL amount of anti-seize on the plugs when intsalling the new ones. You dont want too much, causing some to get into the cylinder. Make sure you dont torque the plugs too tight either, you dont want to break one off in the cylinder head.
Before taking a wrench to your truck, take a compressed air hose and blow out the spark plug holes in the motor so that any dust/dirt down in there wont drop into your cylinders. I bought a set of UltraSpark plug wires and Motorcraft single platinum plugs from Autozone last week for this same repair and it cost me $98.00. not bad considering youll save yourself +/- $250.00 in labor if you do this job yourself. Im fixing to on my 98 4.6, and its going to be a job!! Nothing like the 5 minute job it takes on my 53 inline 6 Chevy..

 

Hahaha...looks like we're all Missouri boys...well, cept for the yank who made the post. Just kiddin of course.

 

haha---well for you missouri boys, theres a FordTruckWorld Missouri chapter meet in Columbia this saturday March 6th. Ford info, go to the regional forums on ftwtrucks.com