Electric Fans
I got a single 16 on my 4.6l, had to try it for the price ($90 through Advance) Have had no problems, install was easy, but I did wire mine with out the thermostat control. Haven't had a problem with A/C. Had a A/C guy look at it and said with a duel fan set-up I could get about 4 or 5 degrees cooler but for the price I can live with what I have.
I ran one 16' fan the first year that I changed to elec. fans. Did have a problem, first time, pulling a heavy trailer in down town Nashville, TN going one block, stop light, one block, stop light,etc, you know what I mean. Any way the temp gauge started to rise very rapidly and I instantly turned A/C off and rolled down the windows and ran the heater on high to get the heater core to work for me. After a block or two the temp started to go down and I was able to shut the heater off, and left the A/C off till I got to clean air moving thru the radiator. Second time that it failed me I was idling in a parking lot with the A/C on for about ten minutes. I'm rambling on here!
Since I have added the second fan and changed the wiring to cycle one fan on/off with the A/C compressor, very rarily does the second fan run and even then only for a seconds, 30 maybe.
I'm running the single core radiator and a 5.4 I feel one fan is border line and would work if a person watched what they were doing, but then you never know what the person that y ou loaned your truck to for errand would do, or even notice.
The second fan make it fool proof. " No Worries Mate"
T-man
Since I have added the second fan and changed the wiring to cycle one fan on/off with the A/C compressor, very rarily does the second fan run and even then only for a seconds, 30 maybe.
I'm running the single core radiator and a 5.4 I feel one fan is border line and would work if a person watched what they were doing, but then you never know what the person that y ou loaned your truck to for errand would do, or even notice.
The second fan make it fool proof. " No Worries Mate"
T-man
www.troyerperformance.com
the above site
has a good kit and they are nice people to deal with. He is also a sponsering member of this board. A lot of the people on this site use his fans.
T-man
the above site
has a good kit and they are nice people to deal with. He is also a sponsering member of this board. A lot of the people on this site use his fans.
T-man
Last edited by triumphman; Feb 8, 2004 at 01:11 PM.
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If you do decide to go with the Troyer kit , it comes with two controllers with multiple leads that are not normally utilized with the instructions. I have set mine up where the second fan (the one that does not have the AC input) has a manual control so that I can flip it on at any time. I also have the secondary fan controller leads wired to LEDs so that I can see which fan is currently on .
I installed a two pod A-pillar guage mount and I have the LEDs and switch mounted on a blank in the bottom pod and a mechanical temp guage mounted into the top pod. I have the temp guage sensor spliced into the heater core input hose (Thanks to a posting to Neil I found in the archives). The power for the guage/by-pass switch is tapped into the ACC power wire that is used for the fans. The cost of the guage, A-pillar mount, switch, LEDs, and wire was about $60 and about 3 hours of additional labor.
Good luck with whatever you choose, there are a lot of options.
T
I installed a two pod A-pillar guage mount and I have the LEDs and switch mounted on a blank in the bottom pod and a mechanical temp guage mounted into the top pod. I have the temp guage sensor spliced into the heater core input hose (Thanks to a posting to Neil I found in the archives). The power for the guage/by-pass switch is tapped into the ACC power wire that is used for the fans. The cost of the guage, A-pillar mount, switch, LEDs, and wire was about $60 and about 3 hours of additional labor.
Good luck with whatever you choose, there are a lot of options.
T
Tsquared,
were did you purchase your A pillar guage pod? And does tapping into the heater input hose give you a correct reading even if the heater core valve is closed and not circulating water?
Thanks
T-man
were did you purchase your A pillar guage pod? And does tapping into the heater input hose give you a correct reading even if the heater core valve is closed and not circulating water?
Thanks
T-man
I picked mine up at an Ace Hardware Auto store. You can get them at Lear Truck Centers, PEP Boys, and NAPA also. Here is a good link that shows a 3 pod install in a F-250. The F-150 works the same way. I recomend that you wire the guages the way that you need them and pull them from the pods to where they need to connect to 12+, Ground, or sensor. A good place to get 12+ is the starter relay on the passenger side firewall. Ground can be found on any metal bolt under the dash (verify with multi-meter).
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/apillar.htm
The heater core has water circulating all the time. It is an accurate account of the temp of the engine water. The cold/warm adjustment on your dash controls a plenum duct in the dash. The design of having a heater core valve has not been around for quite some time.
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/apillar.htm
The heater core has water circulating all the time. It is an accurate account of the temp of the engine water. The cold/warm adjustment on your dash controls a plenum duct in the dash. The design of having a heater core valve has not been around for quite some time.


