I used to have a 94 ranger. The 8 plugs were pretty bad to change. mainly the two in the back.

I bought a set of Autolite double plats.

is really as hard as it looks to change these plugs?

it just looks nasty ans very hard to reach in the back. is it?

any special tools other than extensions that can help crank them out?

thanks

dave

 

You'll need a universal joint for a 3/8" drive wrench, and 2 6" extensions if you really want to make things easy for you. Of course, the spark plug socket (duh) and lots of time. The driver's side is a little harder (for me at least) because you may have to move the power steering fluid resevoir and/or the EGR tube and FPR.

Good luck and wait for the weekend!
-Flea

 

It's a bitch!!!! I did it yesterday. Here are a few hints that will make it easier. 5.4 lit
Materials: 8 Plugs (Duh!) I Like Bosch Platinum Double fire Part # 4304 (Noticeable difference) $3.99 per plug
Anti Seize cream
Buy the service manual. I have the Haynes, It has helped me tremendously.
Tools
Extention Magnet
7 inch length of fuel line ( This fits over the new plug in order to reach the cylinder so that you don't cross thread the new plug)
Light
Take off anything that will be in your way. Much easier.
IMPORTANT!! 2 hours with no children around! You will be cursing!

 

JMC also suggested taking off the fuel rail, to open up the work area a bit. I'm going to try that once it is time, to see if it is easier.

The fuel line on the plug, my ZX-9R manual also suggests that, seems to be a common starter method for a lot of people.

Then again, I think that is a Haynes brand ???

The Kaw factory service manual does not suggest this procedure ??? Neither does the Ford Factory service manual.

 

As steve mentioned I removed the fuel rail. If you do this be sure to add a little coading of Engine oil to the O rings or they could leak. It is not difficult to remove and replace the plugs. Once the coil pack is out of the way the plugs are right there. A spark plug socket is required as it grips the plug with a rubber boot and it comes out with the socket. I personally never use a U joint for plugs. The proper length socket and extention is all that is needed.
I used a 6 and 3 inch extention. Straight up and straight down. When I thread a plug I use the socket and a 6 inch extention and my fingers. If you have good quality tools the joints are not loose and it becomes like threading a long bolt, plug,socket, and extension. I do not skin my knuckels Because I always pull on a ratchet whenever possible. If I have to push I push with the palm of my hand. If you are removing coil packs break the bolt free and then unscrew it with the socket and extention by hand. Using a magnet taped to the socket will insure the bolt stays in the socket. If you do not have a magnet be ready to walk to the dealer to buy some replacement bolts. With practice it should only take 30-45 minutes to change plugs becasue the plugs last 100,000 miles. It may be years between changes.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I must be in the minority here, but you asked.

Two things I would do different than suggested:

I don't use any anti-seize. If you just can't help yourself use stuff
made for aluminum. IMHO it will interfere with proper tightening with a torque wrench (as will swivels).

I use a torque wrench for the final snug. The last thing you need is to end up as one of the stories on the blown out plug thead.

This isn't a difference, but I also use locking extensions. Its hard to keep the grip of the rubber in the socket just right.

 

also to help to keep from crossthreading the plugs turn the plug counterclockwise until you feel the thread "drop" then turn it clockwise to tighten..an old mechanics trick there

 

that hte truth. I had never took 2 hours changing spark plugs before untill i attemped my f150. I didnt remove the fuel rail but had to disconect a few injectors.