If you’re not going to carry a spare I'd replace it after 3yr or 30,000 and carry the old one as a spare. I learned this the hard way on my '92 F-150 when it had about 75,000 miles and the belt broke on the way to a WW Rafting trip near Millinocket (as in “pretty faa’ up dare”) Maine. Luckily I was following others in another vehicle and they noticed I was not behind them and came back to rescue us. Even luckier we had passed a NAPA a few miles back, and I had the basic tools to replace it. Otherwise it could have been a long walk....

 

I used to have serp squeal with my Motorcraft belt whenever I towed my 6000# tractor but not anymore because I found Gatorback Belts are the cure. I learned this a few years ago and have never had serp squeal again. Where did I gain this info? From Mike Troyer of Troyer Performance fame. Here is what he wrote several years ago:


That [serp squeal] will happen on any of these trucks with an automatic transmission when you install performance tuning. What happens is the serpentive belt squeals during the WOT (wide-open throttle) 1-2 upshift, due to the quicker firmer shifts and the fact that there is more power. So as a consequence, the serpentine belt slips. During that full-throttle 1-2 upshift, for about a second to a second and a half you have an easy 40+ hp gain thanks to removing the nasty spark retard Ford uses as part of their soft-shift strategy, as well as the removal of the basic delays, etc. So that power gain coupled with the quicker & firmer upshift will cause the stock low-grade serpentine belt to squeal, and then it stops immediately after the upshift.

The cure is very easy, we use the Goodyear Gatoback serpentine belts, we basically pioneered their use in the supercharged Lightnings and carried that over to just about every vehicle these days so they are now availalbe for all F-150's. We worked with Goodyear early on for the Lightning blower drive belts, to get the parts numbers available to other dealer across the country and to get the belts in the sizes we needed them, ranging from about 66 inches all the way up to your 99" serpentine belt.


So, now ya know....

 

See link below for belt and pulley(s) applications.


http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/arp1/jsp/StartCarSearch.jsp;jsessionid=0000BOV2QLVTZK020DBD 0SYQ30Q:uur6d6ic[/URL]

 

I bought a gatorback serp belt today but noticed a leak at my power steering pump. I want to change the pump prior to replacing the belt for obvious reasons. The auto parts store did not have a chiltons repair book on how to change the pump. I know that the pulley will need to be pressed on the new pump.

Does anyone have any instructions on changing the power steering pump on the 5.4L? It seems straight forward. Any help would be appreciated.

Jeff

 

Removal


Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
Remove the drive belt.

Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the steering gear.
Raise the vehicle.

Disconnect the power steering reservoir pump hose from the power steering pump.
Drain the power steering fluid reservoir.

Remove the upper power steering pump bolts.

Note: Early build 4.6L and 5.4L engines may have two lower power steering pump bolts; the second bolt may be discarded upon removal of the power steering pump. Remove the lower power steering pump bolt and remove the power steering pump.

Note: Secure the power steering pump in a vise. Remove the power steering pressure hose.
1 Loosen the power steering pressure hose fitting.
2 Remove the power steering pressure hose.

Installation

Install the power steering seal by stretching the seal over the seal replacer until it is large enough to slip over the tube nut.

Install the power steering pressure hose.
1 Position the power steering pressure hose into the pump.
2 Tighten the pressure hose fitting.

Position the power steering pump and loosely install the power steering pump bolts.

Tighten the power steering pump upper bolts.

Tighten the power steering pump lower bolt.

Connect the power steering reservoir pump hose to the power steering pump.
Lower the vehicle.

Connect the power steering pressure hose to the steering gear.
Install the drive belt.
Install the engine air cleaner assembly.
Fill and leak check the system.

 

Thanks Haku for the detailed and quick response. BTW, I have a 2000 F150. Is it common to replace all the power steering hoses while changing the pump?

Jeff

 

Not unless there leaking, with the power steering pump you will get a new teflon seal for the high pressure hose. If the hoses feel "spongy" then I would replace them. I doubt you will have to replace them with that new of a vehicle. Do not use trans fluid in there, use power steering fluid. Repair time shows 2.1hrs, so figure 3.0 hrs with normal hand tools, and without a lift. In a shop, with air tools, lift.... It could be done in less then an hour, from start to finish.

If your power steering was whining at all, get a small bottle of power steering condioner as well. Lucas makes a good product for this. If it were my truck, I would flush the system as well.
To flush the system, put the new ps pump on, fill with clean fluid, run the truck for 2 mins, turning the wheel left to right all the way a few times, suck out as much fluid as you can, fill and repeat. Do this untill the fluid looks clean, may take as much as 2 Qts (after fill) to get it clean.

Shawn

 

Thanks again. I see on your profile that you are an ASE Certified Master Tech. It is good to know that you want to help the average Joe work on their vehicles. I'll let you know how the ps pump work turns out.

Jeff

 

Just got my truck and it turns out it was the Clutch Fan that was squeling,and it does run better and the gas mileage got better.

 

Power steering pump R & R took me 3 hours. Gatorback belt installation took me 1 hour (once I got the routing right). Thanks to this forum I saved over $200 doing this job myself.

Jeff