I've been reading as many posts and other articles on synthetic oils and I'm ready to give it a try. I just wanted to ask if i needed to do anything in preparation - ie. flush the engine or use some kind of tune up in a can? Or do I just drain and relpace?

Thanks,
Mark
2000 F-150 Extended Cab 4x4, 5.4L all stock, 85,000 mi

 

I have a 2000 Expy w/ 63k on it. I'm switching back to Amsoil this weekend. I ran synthetic from 1,500 miles to about 40,000, then switched back to dino oil because would be down a quart every 1000 miles on Amsoil 5W-30, which got expensive and bothersome. I ran what ever BS oil the 15 min shops would put in for the next 10k, and it still leaked, but slower. I finally got sick of it, and put in some Lucas oil additive that the NAPA guy said was good, and the consumption stopped. I'd guess it was a Zinc additive. Went to Mobil 1 at 59,000.

I am going to flush the engine tonight and use Amsoils 5w-30 diesel formula with an SDF-11. Hope the consumption problem does not return.

does it answer your question? I guess. flush the engine, add the new oil and filter. Watch for unusual consumption. I guess the flush is optional, but I have heard that after running dino oil for any lenght of time that is a good idea before synthetic.

 

more than you will ever want to know about motor oil



http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=1

 

Most newer synthetic oils are compatable with dino oil.

I have not had any problems switching between the two types. Pick a good oil and change away!

just my 2 cents.

 

Ive used 5w30 valvoline DURABLEND in my last 3 vehicles, all run hard with alot of mile, and have put probably almost 320,000 miles between them ,with not one mechanical failure. Just changed them every 3500 miles and no problems.

 

Nope, just drain then fill. The synthetics will clean out the gunk themselves in just a couple of oil changes. They have good detergents for that.

Make sure you get a true synthetic like Mobil 1, Amzoil 2000 series, Red Line. Others are blended petro. products that are hydrocracked, etc.

Red Line is probably the truest synthetic although they do use a certain unknown amount of PAOs. Their basestock is primarily Polyol Ester, which is great at high temps. It actually is attracted to the hot metal making it a superior lubricant for race engines. They also add a healthy dose of Moly which helps protect things.


www.redlineoil.com

 

you can switch back and forth; mix and match; to your heart's content. won't hurt a thing. i've done it for years. put 250,000 on a 4cyl VW doing that very thing.

 

You can just drain and replace, switch back and forth, it's done all the time, and I've done it myself.

The only concern to think about is the synthetic will have better cleaning properties and there will be some cleaning going on. You don't want to do any kind of extended drain on the first change.

If you do want to clean then engine using the old dino oil before you change over as suggested by some the best and most effective way it to clean it for 1000 miles with Auto-RX and a new oil filter, then drain the oil.

 

hey green whats up!

 

Hey pool. The temp is up a bit here, it's a beautiful 40* winter day.

 

runnin around 65F here with a little rain every few days. funny how little people know about oil until they get hooked by www.bobistheoilguy.com

Gonna try some redline soon just to see if I can quiet down the cold starts a bit.

have a good new year!

Poolvibe

 

That's what makes it fun.

The more I read, the more I think start up noises are solved by cleaning the engine and injectors.

There are many proplems that can cause noise, but they are all due to or made worse by buildup of varnish or carbon.

piston slap - carbon
injectors - varnish
lifters - varnish

Why search for an oil that will cover up or quiet the problem when it's easy to fix it. What do you think?

 

I was planning on taking it in for a performance tune / throttle body service and start using LC and FP.

I've seen some pretty great UOAs for redline on the toyota V6 sludge o matic so I thought I might try it for the f150 and the toyota avalon.

Doin 3oz Autorx maintenance does w/ M1 10w30 right now w/ factory filters in 5k mile changes....

Later

Poolvibe...