Synthetic Oil, Truck Leaks again.
Synthetic Oil, Truck Leaks again.
I asked to have my truck fixed over a year ago under warrenty because it leaked oil. The shop said heads or something were in short supply and that I would have to wait. I have never heard from them since then. My truck has gone out of warrenty since then.
My F150 quit leaking a while back on regular dino oil and I assume the seals were closed by oil gunk. It also did not use any oil at all when it quit leaking.
The truck has almost 2000 miles since I switched to Mobil One 5w30 Synthetic and has used over 1 quart of oil since I switched to Mobil One. I can smell oil burning and also see drips on the pavement where I park my truck.
I think I am going back to the shop and ask them if they ever got the heads or covers or whatever it was that was supposed to stop this oil leak.
I hope they still have a record of this problem.
My F150 quit leaking a while back on regular dino oil and I assume the seals were closed by oil gunk. It also did not use any oil at all when it quit leaking.
The truck has almost 2000 miles since I switched to Mobil One 5w30 Synthetic and has used over 1 quart of oil since I switched to Mobil One. I can smell oil burning and also see drips on the pavement where I park my truck.
I think I am going back to the shop and ask them if they ever got the heads or covers or whatever it was that was supposed to stop this oil leak.
I hope they still have a record of this problem.
Bummer Man,,,
I switched to M1 @ 86k on the clock and now have 115k and not a drop on the garage floor. I have to add a qt at around the 3500 mile mark (I change at 5k now
)
When I was using dino oil (Penzoil) and changing at 3k, it would just be at the point where I would add a qt, but since I was changing the oil anyway, I didn't have to.
The switch to syn is not supposed to create 'new' leaks...... It's very possible that the syn would have cleaned out the motor and therefore opened up a seal that was 'sealed' with gunk.........
Good Luck!
I switched to M1 @ 86k on the clock and now have 115k and not a drop on the garage floor. I have to add a qt at around the 3500 mile mark (I change at 5k now
)When I was using dino oil (Penzoil) and changing at 3k, it would just be at the point where I would add a qt, but since I was changing the oil anyway, I didn't have to.
The switch to syn is not supposed to create 'new' leaks...... It's very possible that the syn would have cleaned out the motor and therefore opened up a seal that was 'sealed' with gunk.........
Good Luck!
Considering you brought this to the attention of the dealer while the truck was still under warrenty and the didn't fix it due to a shortage of parts, I would assume that it should still be covered.
I took my GF's Mountaineer in for a problem around 35,900 miles (just in time) and the parts were back ordered. Finally they came in 4 months later and there wasn't a problem with her vehicle having over 39,000 miles and being out of warrenty.
If you have some documentation that this problem existed prior to the warranty running out (a reciept or the dealers schedualling computer) they should still fix it for free.
I took my GF's Mountaineer in for a problem around 35,900 miles (just in time) and the parts were back ordered. Finally they came in 4 months later and there wasn't a problem with her vehicle having over 39,000 miles and being out of warrenty.
If you have some documentation that this problem existed prior to the warranty running out (a reciept or the dealers schedualling computer) they should still fix it for free.
Originally posted by medic
Considering you brought this to the attention of the dealer while the truck was still under warrenty and the didn't fix it due to a shortage of parts, I would assume that it should still be covered.
I took my GF's Mountaineer in for a problem around 35,900 miles (just in time) and the parts were back ordered. Finally they came in 4 months later and there wasn't a problem with her vehicle having over 39,000 miles and being out of warrenty.
If you have some documentation that this problem existed prior to the warranty running out (a reciept or the dealers schedualling computer) they should still fix it for free.
Considering you brought this to the attention of the dealer while the truck was still under warrenty and the didn't fix it due to a shortage of parts, I would assume that it should still be covered.
I took my GF's Mountaineer in for a problem around 35,900 miles (just in time) and the parts were back ordered. Finally they came in 4 months later and there wasn't a problem with her vehicle having over 39,000 miles and being out of warrenty.
If you have some documentation that this problem existed prior to the warranty running out (a reciept or the dealers schedualling computer) they should still fix it for free.
I would try some auto-rx to see if that helps you leak, I had a co-worker that had a rear main leaking and the Auto-RX cleared it up.
www.auto-rx.com
good luck
www.auto-rx.com
good luck
Originally posted by msparks
I would try some auto-rx to see if that helps you leak, I had a co-worker that had a rear main leaking and the Auto-RX cleared it up.
www.auto-rx.com
good luck
I would try some auto-rx to see if that helps you leak, I had a co-worker that had a rear main leaking and the Auto-RX cleared it up.
www.auto-rx.com
good luck
Sounds to me like you had the leak before switching to synthetic and the synthetic leaked faster than the dino did. You can expect that to happen, and you won't be able to run synthetic until you get the leak fixed.
I had the head gasket replaced on my 99 5.4 because it was leaking oil. I ran synthetic once after that in winter and it did not leak a drop and held the full mark for 5,000 miles.
I had the head gasket replaced on my 99 5.4 because it was leaking oil. I ran synthetic once after that in winter and it did not leak a drop and held the full mark for 5,000 miles.
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Originally posted by medic
Considering you brought this to the attention of the dealer while the truck was still under warrenty and the didn't fix it due to a shortage of parts, I would assume that it should still be covered.
Considering you brought this to the attention of the dealer while the truck was still under warrenty and the didn't fix it due to a shortage of parts, I would assume that it should still be covered.
They quoted a cost to replace the engine block seal of $1000 and $1700 for seal and head.
Synthetic
I use Conklin sythetic. When I became a dealer, they advised me the best way to switch to Synthetic is right after the break in, b/w 10K and 25K miles. I got it in my '98 at 24K, and it uses none. I've heard if you put syn in too late, that the oil itself can slip by. However, if you are leaking onto the pavement, I would have to say it's actually a leak, and it needs to be addressed. Good Luck.


