N/A E.T.'s
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Statesboro, Ga
The last time i went to the track was getting close to a year ago and i ran a 9.4@73mph . It was about 50 degrees down in south Georgia when i ran. Hopefully i can pick up a little this year with a few more mods coming.
justin
justin
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Statesboro, Ga
BROTHERDAVE
yea i am going to try and run the 1/4 as soon as the temp gets out of the 80 to 90 range. As soon as i do, i'll post those times. And i definitely agree with ya on the 91 mph from jstang. If that is truly what his time slip said then that track's radar is off by more than just a little. later.
justin
yea i am going to try and run the 1/4 as soon as the temp gets out of the 80 to 90 range. As soon as i do, i'll post those times. And i definitely agree with ya on the 91 mph from jstang. If that is truly what his time slip said then that track's radar is off by more than just a little. later.
justin
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: southington ct usa
1715 tuner, Flex-a-lite fan, Lincoln MKVII water pump, spin tech muffler, homemade ram airand a smooth (phynelic material) TB spacer. Despite what most everyone here says, they do add to the low end. Tunnel rams, and long tube intake runners, all add plenum volume.
The MPH puts me at 275 hp. My 3:08's kill the ET.
It weighs in at 4760lbs, once I get to the top of 1st, 3000 rpm even,.............. it pulls like no ones business.
From a standing start, it'll light'em up if I step on it. I haven't tried to launch with any wheel spin, as most times it will cost ET, sometimes it helps get you into the power band quicker.
I really need to do some more runs, and sort out what will work best out of the hole.
The MPH puts me at 275 hp. My 3:08's kill the ET.
It weighs in at 4760lbs, once I get to the top of 1st, 3000 rpm even,.............. it pulls like no ones business.
From a standing start, it'll light'em up if I step on it. I haven't tried to launch with any wheel spin, as most times it will cost ET, sometimes it helps get you into the power band quicker.
I really need to do some more runs, and sort out what will work best out of the hole.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Scott AFB, IL
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 4
From: Friendswood Texas
jstang ,
i have a supecrew, 5196 # with me in it.
60 ft time is 2.3 (slow), 1/4 mile is 15.1 at 89.9 mph
i have a vortec s/c and despritley need to get a chip.(ping monster)
5.4, automatic, 3.55 with a 285/60/18 tire 11.25 wide and about 31.5 tall (an 1" wider and 1/2" taller)
there were thrucks at the track running 16.2 to 16.7 ranging from 80 mph to 84 mph.
a gear change is $$$ and i realize 1/4 in your truck is probably not priority but a set of 3.73 would (on paper) drop some serious time with your 91 mph. i think 4.10 would get me at least 2/10th but i dont think i will be going there.
i have a supecrew, 5196 # with me in it.
60 ft time is 2.3 (slow), 1/4 mile is 15.1 at 89.9 mph
i have a vortec s/c and despritley need to get a chip.(ping monster)
5.4, automatic, 3.55 with a 285/60/18 tire 11.25 wide and about 31.5 tall (an 1" wider and 1/2" taller)
there were thrucks at the track running 16.2 to 16.7 ranging from 80 mph to 84 mph.
a gear change is $$$ and i realize 1/4 in your truck is probably not priority but a set of 3.73 would (on paper) drop some serious time with your 91 mph. i think 4.10 would get me at least 2/10th but i dont think i will be going there.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: southington ct usa
Roush,
I made my own ram air. I used the stock airbox, a fernco adapter, a pipe from JL Lighting kit, and a scoop. the air enters the scoop where the tow hook cut out is, seeing I have a 4X4 lower valance without the hooks, I opened it up to fit the scoop(driver side only).
I installed 4, one way check valves in the filter housing, to allow instant airflow the minute I step on it. I'll show you my set up, and at the same time I'd like to check out that hood scoop you installed.
I also have a Plasma Booster ignition.(forgot that eariler)
Brotherdave, those tires are whats killing your ET, a 2" shorter tire would be like adding gear, I think if you went to 3:73's, and got some low profile tires you'd see more than a couple tenths improvement. Hell find some 16's with 235's, I'll bet once you learn how to lauch, you'll be amazed.
It would also appear you are running out of tune, you should be making more power than that.
Engine Dyno
Initial Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
WEIGHT 5196 pounds
TRAP SPEED 89.9 mph
E/T 15.1 seconds
Dyno Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
Total Horsepower 301 bhp
Horsepower Used 298 bhp
Best E/T 15.05 seconds
Fuel Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
Specific Fuel Consumption 150.58 pounds/hour
Fuel Pump Capacity 90.35 liters/hour
Optimal Fuel Pump Capacity 108.42 liters/hour
Injector Flow Rate 21.65 lb/hr Injectors
I figure your leaving an easy 20-30hp on the table. Look up JMSchip.com. Great guys to work with.
I think a gear change is one of the most cost effective modifications one could make. I'm not really looking to making the truck into a 1/4 miler, I have the "Stang" for that, I just like to play with it. Another good idea is a good converter, that will drop a few 10th's as well.
Mine looks like this
Engine Dyno
Initial Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
WEIGHT 4760 pounds
TRAP SPEED 90 mph
E/T 16. seconds
Dyno Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
Total Horsepower 276 bhp
Horsepower Used 229 bhp
Best E/T 15.03 seconds
I don't think my actual HP is that high(maybe 260-265), but the real strong torque on the bottom end, gets things moving faster. I've G-Tech'ed 191 to 201 rwhp. Also the G-Tech measures actual speed at the end of the 1/4 mile, at a track it is an average of the last 60 feet, so a G-Tech will read slightly higher in that reguard. And HP is roughly 5% less because unlike a dyno a G-Tech takes in account for wind resistance,, of which there is none on a fixed dyno.
I made my own ram air. I used the stock airbox, a fernco adapter, a pipe from JL Lighting kit, and a scoop. the air enters the scoop where the tow hook cut out is, seeing I have a 4X4 lower valance without the hooks, I opened it up to fit the scoop(driver side only).
I installed 4, one way check valves in the filter housing, to allow instant airflow the minute I step on it. I'll show you my set up, and at the same time I'd like to check out that hood scoop you installed.
I also have a Plasma Booster ignition.(forgot that eariler)
Brotherdave, those tires are whats killing your ET, a 2" shorter tire would be like adding gear, I think if you went to 3:73's, and got some low profile tires you'd see more than a couple tenths improvement. Hell find some 16's with 235's, I'll bet once you learn how to lauch, you'll be amazed.
It would also appear you are running out of tune, you should be making more power than that.
Engine Dyno
Initial Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
WEIGHT 5196 pounds
TRAP SPEED 89.9 mph
E/T 15.1 seconds
Dyno Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
Total Horsepower 301 bhp
Horsepower Used 298 bhp
Best E/T 15.05 seconds
Fuel Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
Specific Fuel Consumption 150.58 pounds/hour
Fuel Pump Capacity 90.35 liters/hour
Optimal Fuel Pump Capacity 108.42 liters/hour
Injector Flow Rate 21.65 lb/hr Injectors
I figure your leaving an easy 20-30hp on the table. Look up JMSchip.com. Great guys to work with.
I think a gear change is one of the most cost effective modifications one could make. I'm not really looking to making the truck into a 1/4 miler, I have the "Stang" for that, I just like to play with it. Another good idea is a good converter, that will drop a few 10th's as well.
Mine looks like this
Engine Dyno
Initial Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
WEIGHT 4760 pounds
TRAP SPEED 90 mph
E/T 16. seconds
Dyno Readings
READING OUTPUT UNITS
Total Horsepower 276 bhp
Horsepower Used 229 bhp
Best E/T 15.03 seconds
I don't think my actual HP is that high(maybe 260-265), but the real strong torque on the bottom end, gets things moving faster. I've G-Tech'ed 191 to 201 rwhp. Also the G-Tech measures actual speed at the end of the 1/4 mile, at a track it is an average of the last 60 feet, so a G-Tech will read slightly higher in that reguard. And HP is roughly 5% less because unlike a dyno a G-Tech takes in account for wind resistance,, of which there is none on a fixed dyno.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 4
From: Friendswood Texas
jstang.
you nailed it, something isnt quite right, on the 1-2 shift i falls on its face pinging starting at 4800 rom, the 2-3 shift is not as bad but its there. i plan on a an exhaust, and a chip and that it.
the thing that is puzzling to me about the horsepower game (i dont like to play that guessing game) is that i am outrunning lightly moded extended cabs by 1.3 to 1.5 seconds. Now you know and i know that 40 hp dosent drop you that much. unless its making gobbs of mid range and because of :tune, fuel, gears, 2.5" exhaust is killing the top end (peak) numbers.
i have a car also that i am messiing with, as much as i want my truck to run good, i would be happy with a 14.6 or 14.7 5200 lb truck, i cant wait to get my car dialed in so i can surprise a more than a few mustangs.
on your hp #, i take it you have a computer program, is that estimated rearwheel or crank?
as much as i want to run faster, the e.t is not important enough to me to drop the spare and change the tires, i was nice just to go to the track, eat a burger and go home not looking or smelling like Cooter.(the one from dukes of hazard not the other
)
you nailed it, something isnt quite right, on the 1-2 shift i falls on its face pinging starting at 4800 rom, the 2-3 shift is not as bad but its there. i plan on a an exhaust, and a chip and that it.
the thing that is puzzling to me about the horsepower game (i dont like to play that guessing game) is that i am outrunning lightly moded extended cabs by 1.3 to 1.5 seconds. Now you know and i know that 40 hp dosent drop you that much. unless its making gobbs of mid range and because of :tune, fuel, gears, 2.5" exhaust is killing the top end (peak) numbers.
i have a car also that i am messiing with, as much as i want my truck to run good, i would be happy with a 14.6 or 14.7 5200 lb truck, i cant wait to get my car dialed in so i can surprise a more than a few mustangs.
on your hp #, i take it you have a computer program, is that estimated rearwheel or crank?
as much as i want to run faster, the e.t is not important enough to me to drop the spare and change the tires, i was nice just to go to the track, eat a burger and go home not looking or smelling like Cooter.(the one from dukes of hazard not the other
)
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: southington ct usa
The stock EEC pulls timing out at the shift and holds it out for the next 400 RPM, that may be why it feels like it falls on its face. You need to get rid of that, and the only way is through the computer. Or you gap may be too wide on the plugs you need to check them.
Detonation or preignition, you need to find out exactly what the problem is. If you have stock plugs, that may be the cause. Platnum plugs can stay hot enough to light things off. With a blower I'd change them.
If you can hook up a code reader and get real time O2 sensor voltage you can find out your mixture. You can also use a volt meter.
you would be looking for 7 10th's of a volt for an 11:1 ratio. I know it's no $10,000.00 wide band , it will get you close with out going to a dyno. Higher too rich, lower not rich enough, that could bring on the "pings".
When I swapped the heads in my stang, I got detonation bad, I wound up pulling the plugs and found one that was a gray color while all the others were cardboard brown. I replaced it and no more problem. Bad plug.
Detonation or preignition, you need to find out exactly what the problem is. If you have stock plugs, that may be the cause. Platnum plugs can stay hot enough to light things off. With a blower I'd change them.
If you can hook up a code reader and get real time O2 sensor voltage you can find out your mixture. You can also use a volt meter.
you would be looking for 7 10th's of a volt for an 11:1 ratio. I know it's no $10,000.00 wide band , it will get you close with out going to a dyno. Higher too rich, lower not rich enough, that could bring on the "pings".
When I swapped the heads in my stang, I got detonation bad, I wound up pulling the plugs and found one that was a gray color while all the others were cardboard brown. I replaced it and no more problem. Bad plug.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 4
From: Friendswood Texas
What you are telling me is the same i am hearing from others. my first change is i am going to a colder denso plug with a smaller gap.
in December or January i plan on getting it dynoed and getting the information you are talking about. i am taking that and getting large injectors, mass-air flow meter and a chip to tie it all together.
faster slower, whatever i will post my gains-looses and what it runs at the track.
it always help to here information from different sources and different experiences, thanks for the info.
in December or January i plan on getting it dynoed and getting the information you are talking about. i am taking that and getting large injectors, mass-air flow meter and a chip to tie it all together.
faster slower, whatever i will post my gains-looses and what it runs at the track.
it always help to here information from different sources and different experiences, thanks for the info.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,919
Likes: 0
From: Western Massachusetts
My one and only N/A run was a 16.52@80.46 (first run ever). That was with a horrible 60' of 2.491. After spending a good amount and suffering some knuckle scrapes I've managed to drop a second and a half off that at trap speeds in the low 90s (after ten runs total under my belt). I still haven't figured out how to lower the 60' much. All I know is it's a lot harder than it looks to get the times I think I should be getting.