i know that there has been some serious debates over which oil to use. my question is sorta along those lines, you see i am getting ready to change my oil and was going to go with mobile 1 syn. but i just put 8 oz. of seafoam in the oil and i was going to drive it around for 400-500 more miles and change the oil. they (don't know who they are) then recommend to change your oil after 1000-1500 miles due to the seafoam still cleaning inside the engine and oil pan. my problem is i don't want to spend $30 for the first oil change and then $30 more a month later. what oil should i use for the first 1000-1500 mile change. .........and what is everyones opinion on the syn. blend products?.........i appreciate any responses in advance and sorry if this question as been asked recently or often.....

 

Best solution would be do run some Auto-RX through the engine the last 1000-1500 miles before you change over to mobil 1

www.auto-rx.com

If you have near or over 100,000 miles on the engine, I'd do 2 runs of Auto-RX. You can find the instructions on the website.

The oil that I would use would be something inexpensive, like Mobil drive clean or chevron supreme if you can find it around $1 a quart.

 

msparks, (or anyone who has an opinion)

so for the first 1000-1500 you would use mobile drive clean or ceveron supreme. and after i change the oil from that what would you go with mobile one syn.??? also what are your thoughts on the synthetic blend oils out there. i noticed walmart has a castrol syn. blend for $9.98 a 5qt container. seems pretty reasonable but not for sure of the reputation of castrol. thanks for your time......

 

How many total miles do you have on your truck?
The concern is that using a synthetic oil on a high milage engine is a waste and may do more harm than good in terms of leaks and dollars spent.

Lonster

 

i have a 97' 4.6L 4x4 sc with 52k.

 

as far as i've been told from most machanics(dealer and other wise) as long as your changeing your oil regularly at 3,000 miles it's more on personnel preference. Ive run mostly valveoline oils and never had a problem. if you can afford to run the synthetic blends go for it.

 

That is only if your using the Auto-RX treatment. There are other engine flushes out there which are solvent based, which you run in the engine for 15 minutes, but the Auto-RX is a natural harmless ester based product that slowly dissolves(actually liquifies) the sludge and varnish and carries it to the filter.

I would run one of the 2 mentioned oils above with the Auto-RX then change over to the full synthetic

 

For one I don't like blends, why you ask? becuase do you know what the percent of syntethic is in there?? From what I understand it's 10-20% or less. So you pay near sytnethic prices for 20% improvement in performance. Also in the area of contaminants, those compounds that are left over from the refining process are still in there, so there is a good chance that those compouds could cause sludge and varnish in your engine

Whereas a full synthetic product will be pure and not produce any of the sludge and varnish.

Lastly Castrol is not one of my favorite lubes, The Syntec and the blend is actually a blend of group II and group III base stocks, there are no true sytnetics in there.

To learn more about the Group III isodewaxed base stocks check out these links:

http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/BaseOils/isodewax.shtml

http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/Base..._perform.shtml

http://baseoil.conoco.com/content/prod_group3.asp

No matter which way they cut it or spin it, Group III oils are NOT SYNTHETIC, they are close and are very good oils but do not have the same properties as a true syntetic.

Now if the price is right, I'd take a serious look at the Group III oils, if its about 1/2 price of a true sythetic, then I'd have no problems running it, but most of the Group III sythetic marketers are at least the same price if not more than the true sythetics.

Mobil one still uses a PAO/Ester based product,

Whereas Chevron, Texaco, Pennzoil, Castrol, Amsoil XL7500(only) Quaker State. are Group III based "synthetics"

 

I 'd go with the syn oil . I've got a 98 f150 4x4 with 240 000km
fuel tank hauling bush truck. I changed the oil 2000km ago
and the oil is still clear. It burns no oil has no leaks and has had no work done to the engine.
My last truck a '92 at 195000km thebest regular oil was changed every 3000km(2000 miles) it came out dark,burned a 1/2 qrt between changes; I changed the timing chain at 160000km,and the seals were starting to leak.