Does anyone know where i could find spark plug torque specs?? thanks in adavance

 

Did a search on the topic name you used and here is the thread from awhile ago.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=102449

 

Thanks sscully sometimes i forget about our search tool. I just kicked over 50k and getting a little rough idle so i got some NGK Iridiums they are goin in in a few minutes. Thanks again.

 

Just got back from drivin my truck after the plug change. Seems to run the same but we will see if the rough idle goes away. I am keepin my fingers crossed. Oh and by the way that plug change wasnt near as difficult as everyone was makin it out to be. I had a 10 wobble extension, spark plug socket and a 1 inch extension along with my ratchet and torque wrench. With those tools the job seemed to go pretty quick. From start to finish i was done in under an hour. Well thanks sscully again for the help.

 

HI!... DO NOT TQ your spark plugs to factory spec!!!!!!!!!!!!! We have noticed that 90% of the people who actually take the time to use a TQ wrench and TQ the plugs are the ones that end up blowing out plugs. When installing new plugs just add a dab of anti-seize to the spark plug threads and insert the plug by turning it by hand as far as you can to make sure you don't cross thread the threads. I usually just give it about a 1/4 turn wirth the rachet after bottoming the plug out by hand. It's hard to explain but it's all done with "FEEL" to tighten the plugs down. That, and experience.

 

I've done the same as Neal by feel. The Denso website gives the 1/4 turn once the plug is bottomed out by hand tightening, but I've also heard that you should not use any anti-sieze because it can act as a lubricant and make it easier to over tighten; just be careful!

 

To anti-sieze or not to anti-sieze...

Will just a dab of grease do the same? Or is that setting it up for failure? What is anti-sieze composed of that makes it special?

I didn't put anti-sieze on mine simply cuz I didn't have any. Didn't put any grease on for fear that they might vibrate out.

Also only torqued them to "feel"...just tight enough I hope. This would be difficult to tell, but it torquing to feel more or less tight than to factory specs?

Fingers crossed and hoping for no sparkplug mushroom cloud popping out from under the hood.

Until then...

 

I anti-seized and did an 1/8th of a turn after bottoming by hand. I bought an inch pound wrench and it converted over to 13 ft lbs, which was Ford's Consumer Affairs recommendation I inquired on. I also asked them how many threads were in the plug holes...after asking for my VIN, they didn't know and referred me to the dealer. I thought the recommended tightening for tapered seat plugs 1/16 to 1/8 turn after bottoming and flat seat plugs are 1/4 turn??? Hmmm...what type of Christmas decoration would go best with the inverted dents in my hood?

 

Do not use grease, It will break down with heat and act more like loctite than anti sieze. I think it's a good idea to pull the plugs on the vehicle when new and apply a little anti sieze. So long as pulling the plugs isn't a nightmare.

 

As u read i already installed my plugs. However 11 foot pounds is what i torqued them to and it wasnt near as much as i would have put on them if i would not have had a torque wrench. I am confindent mine will be ok.


* One thing i would like to add. Has anyone else ever ran accross these engines that have platinum plugs installed in one head and regular plugs in the other. I thought that was kinda funny. Left bank had platinums, right had regulars. My truck does seem to run a little smoother now having matching plugs may be part of it.

 

ALWAYS antiseize bolts going into aluminum...

 

The oil in antiseize will work its way down the threads and make it on your spark plug. It is very little but it will make a depost on the electrode. Can make a rough idle. More noticable with platnium plugs.

 

Silver&Blue,

I remember reading somewhere that Ford did/does use different plugs in the different banks on the Triton engine.

All the plugs installed at the factory are platinum but on one bank they use platinum cathode plugs and on the other platinum anode plugs.

I assume the "double platinum" plugs we use for replacment have both cathode and anode of platinum.

 

Whatever little (tiny) bit makes it down will not necessarily corrode the electrode, but even if it does, the extreme heat during combustion should take care of it fairly handily.

 

where did you hear this?