Changing plugs 5.4
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08-24-2003, 04:10 PM
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08-24-2003, 08:58 PM
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Just do a search with the "Search" button at the top right of any screen while on this forum. There are many posts that cover this.
But in case your lazy
, j/k, here is a post from tomato truck:
This may help someone
from Chuck's page
Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools
The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.
Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket. 1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing 7mm bolts.
You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.
The 3/8" ratchet, (2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.
On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.
The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble.
By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job. It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.
Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs. Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.
I hope this helps. It's a lot more info than I had.
I have also heard that a 1/4 swivel 7mm from sears helps allot
But in case your lazy
, j/k, here is a post from tomato truck:This may help someone
from Chuck's page
Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools
The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.
Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket. 1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing 7mm bolts.
You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.
The 3/8" ratchet, (2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.
On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.
The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble.
By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job. It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.
Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs. Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.
I hope this helps. It's a lot more info than I had.
I have also heard that a 1/4 swivel 7mm from sears helps allot