Spark plug question
Spark plug question
A quick question... hopefully an easy answer.
I have a '97' F150 with the 4.6 engine. It has almost 43,000 miles on it, and I have only put about 5,000 miles on it total the past 4 years. So I guess it's going to be a while before it needs tuning up.
If I wait to long to change the plugs, do you think there is a chance that they could seize up on me? It runs as good as the day I bought it new, and don't want to mess with the plugs if I don't have to. Just don't want to find out years down the road that I should have done something sooner.
Thanks in advance.
I have a '97' F150 with the 4.6 engine. It has almost 43,000 miles on it, and I have only put about 5,000 miles on it total the past 4 years. So I guess it's going to be a while before it needs tuning up.
If I wait to long to change the plugs, do you think there is a chance that they could seize up on me? It runs as good as the day I bought it new, and don't want to mess with the plugs if I don't have to. Just don't want to find out years down the road that I should have done something sooner.
Thanks in advance.
If it does sit for an extended period of time, you may have some problems with things getting frozen or rusting out on you, yes, but not if you drive the truck, that will help out more than anything. Maybe just take it out on the highway, make sure things work, such as the windshield washer, e-brake, etc. a few times a week. Run the A/C once a month and so on. I don't really think you'll have any issues if you're doing this. Have you noticed corrosion on the plugs? Is that why you asked? Or do you plan on storing the truck for a long period without running it? Anyway, that is just what I think, hope it helps out a little.
Sometimes it sits for a week or so, but I usually try to drive it a few times a week.
Just didn't know if there was a chance of this happening or not, if the spark plugs didn't get changed for like 10 years or something.
Just didn't know if there was a chance of this happening or not, if the spark plugs didn't get changed for like 10 years or something.
If it gets driven a few times a week, I don't see how that could happen, unless you're just backing out of the garage and pulling it right back in! If the truck sits for a longer than usual period of time (in your case, say over two weeks) just pop one of the plugs out and take a look at it. I'd bet it will be fine. Like I said before, just drive it on the highway a few times a week and make sure everything in the truck gets used from time to time and you should be in the clear. Best of luck with it!
Letting a truck sit too long is basically the same thing as a human being a sloth. If you were to lay down and hibernate for a month, your bones would have a hard time getting up and running. Same thing for your truck. As long as you "exercise" it - take it out for a 10-15 min. drive at least once a week, preferably 2-3 times - it'll be okay. But if it sits for a long period of time without moving, then problems begin to occur.
If it sits for over two weeks all the oil will seep down into the pan and when you start it it'll be dry and cause damage. Even when you take it out now on occasion you should make sure you're letting the oil get circulated (about 30-45 sec.) before even putting the truck in gear. If you let it sit for a long period, you should prime the oil. To do this, lay your foot down on the gas all the way before turning the key over; this will cause the oil pump to get some oil into the engine, but the computer will prevent the engine from actually starting with the pedal to the floor.
Otherwise, if it sits a long period of time you'll probably have to replace most of the expendable parts such as the filters, spark plugs, etc. You should also remove the battery before long-term storage, and it will require a good tune-up when you "resurrect" it.
If it sits for over two weeks all the oil will seep down into the pan and when you start it it'll be dry and cause damage. Even when you take it out now on occasion you should make sure you're letting the oil get circulated (about 30-45 sec.) before even putting the truck in gear. If you let it sit for a long period, you should prime the oil. To do this, lay your foot down on the gas all the way before turning the key over; this will cause the oil pump to get some oil into the engine, but the computer will prevent the engine from actually starting with the pedal to the floor.
Otherwise, if it sits a long period of time you'll probably have to replace most of the expendable parts such as the filters, spark plugs, etc. You should also remove the battery before long-term storage, and it will require a good tune-up when you "resurrect" it.
Thanks guys.
I put around 36,000 miles on it the first 2 years I owned it going back and forth to work. Started working out of my home around 4 years ago, so I don't put many miles on it now.
The real b*tch is, that I bought the 6 year, 100,000 mile extended warrenty right before the 36,000 mile mark... that sure was a waiste of money. Didn't know I was going to start working for myself.
Thanks again.
I put around 36,000 miles on it the first 2 years I owned it going back and forth to work. Started working out of my home around 4 years ago, so I don't put many miles on it now.
The real b*tch is, that I bought the 6 year, 100,000 mile extended warrenty right before the 36,000 mile mark... that sure was a waiste of money. Didn't know I was going to start working for myself.
Thanks again.
I don't think it would be to much of a problem. You could always pull them to check them out once a year or every other year, that way you would know they are still good and then you have a chance to break them loose and put new anti-seize grease on them...
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Thought about that... but heard it's a real b*tch to do. Is it really that bad to get to them, and get them out? I figured if it ain't broke, don't mess with it.
Also, are the problems with the 4.6 blowing plugs? If so... makes me even more nervous about messing with them.
Thought about going back to driving a 60's car... at least I know how to work on those (no freaking e-check either).
Also, are the problems with the 4.6 blowing plugs? If so... makes me even more nervous about messing with them.
Thought about going back to driving a 60's car... at least I know how to work on those (no freaking e-check either).
I'm not thoroughly familiar with the 4.6L, but if it's anything like the 5.4L then I can surely confirm that it's a real bear attempting to get to the back two plugs. An hour into changing my plugs I could definitely see why the mechanic wanted $250 of labor to do it. After depressurizing the fuel system and detatching the fuel rail, though, the job was a whole lot easier. But it did involve some sitting inside the engine compartment to get the right positioning/leverage in some places. Accessing the third plug back on the driver's side was also an interesting adventure. I believe I had to disconnect the EGR at some point.
When doing this, it required a lot of leverage with the only tool I had that could do it: channel-locks. When I finally broke it, though, the handle of the channel-locks hit some obscure sensor (EGR O2 or temp. sensor or some such thing). It had to be replaced. The part cost $80. I'd recommend you just remove it first if it's in your way. 
But if you're lucky your engine's a lot easier.
-Jeff
When doing this, it required a lot of leverage with the only tool I had that could do it: channel-locks. When I finally broke it, though, the handle of the channel-locks hit some obscure sensor (EGR O2 or temp. sensor or some such thing). It had to be replaced. The part cost $80. I'd recommend you just remove it first if it's in your way. 
But if you're lucky your engine's a lot easier.
-Jeff
Last edited by ucfperspicere; Jul 25, 2003 at 12:55 PM.
I think you will find that pulling the wires off the plugs is a real bitch,seems they are seized to the plug.When I did mine the 1st time I had a missfire on #8,turned out to be a bad wire probobly from pulling so hard to get it off.I replaced wires with MSD Superconductors at 45k,now it has 98k and no problems other than 2 o2 sensors.
The plugs i used were Motorcraft 32pp,if you do it yourself could you E-mail me and tell me which # plugs are on which bank from the factory,there is 4 32p and 4 32pg,I want to reinstall them soon because they are in great cond. but I want to install them on the right sides and dont remember which plugs went to which side.
Thank You,
Randy
The plugs i used were Motorcraft 32pp,if you do it yourself could you E-mail me and tell me which # plugs are on which bank from the factory,there is 4 32p and 4 32pg,I want to reinstall them soon because they are in great cond. but I want to install them on the right sides and dont remember which plugs went to which side.
Thank You,
Randy
It is true it can be a bear to change the plugs but I have also read and seen some pictures from members here who changed their plugs with the electrode bascially gone. It was still firing but the gap and everything else was about dust.
You make a good point if you have no problems now just wait until it's time to change them which many recommend at 60,000 since you know your going to have a problem then you would at least have all new plugs and wires so you wouldn't have to worry about breaking any plug wires or plugs.
You make a good point if you have no problems now just wait until it's time to change them which many recommend at 60,000 since you know your going to have a problem then you would at least have all new plugs and wires so you wouldn't have to worry about breaking any plug wires or plugs.
Motorcraft plugs with 90K on them not seized!
I know this is idiotic but it's a fact!
I bought my 97 F-150 (4.6L) with 30K and just now replaced the Motorcraft plugs & wires.
No plugs were seized! The ones on the right bank were a little rusty however...
The boots are a pain. Bought Long-handled needle-nose pliers to get at them and used the pliers as a pry-bar (to get leverage to brake the boots loose) over the rubber covered handles of a channel-lock pliers that I had laid flat on the valve cover.
What-ever-it-takes
I bought my 97 F-150 (4.6L) with 30K and just now replaced the Motorcraft plugs & wires.
No plugs were seized! The ones on the right bank were a little rusty however...
The boots are a pain. Bought Long-handled needle-nose pliers to get at them and used the pliers as a pry-bar (to get leverage to brake the boots loose) over the rubber covered handles of a channel-lock pliers that I had laid flat on the valve cover.
What-ever-it-takes
Originally posted by Swedish Meatball
Yes. I did the plugs first. My mis-firing problem persisted, however. I did the wires a couple of days later...
Yes. I did the plugs first. My mis-firing problem persisted, however. I did the wires a couple of days later...


