I kind of assumed he already took care of it, guess I should not have gone that far.

If it is an actual Pinging noise ( not a knock ) a few things :

1. Clean the MAFS.

2. Clean the EGR ports on the T/B 4.6's have been know with higher millage to be plugged.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=95863

Just a few thoughts on the route I thought you already took, if it is a pinging noise under load.

In my case (and from my searching looks like *most* folks' case) it's under load. Uphill, towing or even just depressing the throttle a bit more than usual causes the unbearable sound of pistons being rattled in their cages!

Since I'll have an extra $400 laying around as of this month, I'll definitely run it down to the Ford dealer & let 'em have a look. The funny part (just like for the first 2 years when I couldn't keep a hubcap on for more than a month......<<those plastichrome f150 caps>>) is that they'll tell me that they've heard of no problem with pinging in any 4.6's. They'll tell me I'm the first one they've ever heard bring this up. Then they'll tell me that they might have heard a little bit, but nothing unusual. Then........I'LL take 'em for a test drive & show 'em what it feels like to have your teeth rattled to the core of your brain stem & all the way down your spine. Then I'll look at the guy (or gal) and smile. To which they'll answer, "Well, you could try using 89 or 91octane" at which point I'll literally pull the guy outside of my truck thru the passenger window and beat him to a bloody pulp!

Sorry guys, just couldn't resist. I'll let you know how far the true story deviates from above. (Probably not by much.....minus the beating to a bloody pulp part)

Try cleaning MAFS sensor first, use windex sprayed on a Q-Tip and GENTLY clena the wire in the barrel.

Next follow the directions post and clean the EGR ports.

No need to pay Ford to do either of these, they are short labor only things you can try yourself. The next steps also you can do yourself.

If they don't know how to listen for pinging under laod, why let them try to fix it. They might charge the 400.00 and then some, and still not get to the root of the problem, if they have never heard of a 4.6 pinging under load ( it is somewhat common on 4.6L engines ).
DIY and save yourself the trouble. It would almost take less time to do both yourself, rather then trying to get them to hear the problem on the drive test, let alone have them fix it.

Awww heck. Looks like I'll have to go get a manual. Didn't wanna get my hands dirty, but oh well.

Next, I wanna get the trans oil flush & fill. (I guess drain & fill doesn't cut it anymore?) Rear end oil, coolant flush & fill (ditto about flushing coolant?). Hopefully they'll have one of those 60k mile coupon deals so they can do all the spark plugs too.....especially #4! And especially all of the "inspect all belts & hoses" deal. Who can beat that?? A real live INSPECTION by a dealer!!! (sarcasm intended)

Anything else anyone can think of to have 'em do after I've done my Qtip cleaning? TIA

Clean the maf and reset the computer.

If that doesn't work clean the eger ports

Read the posted links from SSCULLY

As for the other maintenance items they are easy to do if you can turn a wrench - do it yourself. Not only will you save money but you'll have a better working idea of how your truck works. It's not rocket science.

Ya, I've turned wrenches before, just not so much in the mood the older I get.....

Actually, I'd still bring it to the dealer for the coolant & trans fluid changes as I like that they're able to flush both whereas best I can do is drain & fill. Then, when I consider that, I could probably do the spark plugs myself........(I remember the days of taking off my dual Weber 48 IDA's to get to my 4 plugs on my old VW drag motor.....PITA!!!)........imho, it's just as easy for me to take them up on one of their 60k mile coupon deals & let them do it.

I'll definitely give a try on the MAFS & egr ports.......(still gonna need ta' get a Hayes manual since I don't know where they are on this thing) and while I've seen a lot of stuff on resetting the computer, I can't find it via searching.......anybody fill me in on how I reset my computer?? Thx!

P.S. Without changing/turning the rotors, I can honestly say that these are the easiest brakes I've ever done!

You can clean the MAF sensor by opening the filter cannister and you'll see the little barrel with the squiggly little MAF sensor wires (se picture).

While some use a q-tip I really recommend against it. I use brake cleaner or electronic parts cleaner spray and put the included little red tube on the pray can and give the wires a couple of blasts of cleaner. Let it dry, re-assemble the filter. You can reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes with the headlights on to drain any residual energy in the system. Just hook it back up and go driving, heh.



I do my own flushes but the spark plugs are someting I might let the dealer do.

Wow!! Exscellent pic!! Ya, I think I might just try the brake cleaner myself unless somebody seriously objects. I assume you don't want to tweak that coiled wire, eh?

And for purposes of reasoning, I assume that a cleaned MAFS will tell the computer to richen up the mixture a bit??

As for my background, my drag-racing knowledge always associated pinging with too high a compression ratio or too much advance. Heat sometimes played a part in it, but usually it was one of the other 2. I'm gonna go out on a limb here & assume that it's in the ignition advance. (old-school ahead---->)Too bad we can't just loosen the distributor & turn her back a couple degrees........he he!

There is one more thing you can do. It helped immensely with my engine rattling noise. Get one of those CCCFIPK kits from Ebay. They are about U$70 shipped. Can't really loose anything and I really like mine. Reset computer, clean MAF, reseat the octane shorting bar connector and do all the other crap suggested earlier.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2416584128


Fritz

Welp, I've gotta run by the parts store today after work & pick up some WD-40 for something else, so I'll definitely get some brake cleaner while I'm there. If it doesn't knock off any sludge I see, I've always got Qtips & Windex at home.

I searched for the octane shorting bar stuff & found it. I don't know that "reseating" that grey deal would do anything (i.e. if it was loose & wasn't working I would have more retard, wouldn't I??) Sounds like MAFS cleaning & EGR port cleaning is the way to go. I searched EGR port cleaning, but WTH, anybody got a pointer for accessing?? (or a pic?)

Also, what about that Berryman stuff. Or that 44 stuff?? Is that the same/better/worse than cleaning the EGR port by hand??? Thanks!

P.S. Just stood in the local dealer's bay waiting to ask how much for a 60k mile tuneup & nobody helped me in 15 minutes. That'll be the last time I walk in there!

Well, I cleaned the MAF sensor but I don't think it was dirty to begin with & if it was, it certainly isn't now. Still pings!

If that's the 1st thing, anybody got a recommendation of priority for the 2nd thing to do?

If the MAFS wire is cleaned, then the next thing is to check the EGR ports and EGR lines for blockage.

Sorry but wrench time....

Well, I don't suppose anybody's got a good pic/links for doin' that one, eh? (I searched but don't see any descent pics.)

Also, would it be worth throwing some SeaFoam in *before* pulling EGR hoses & such or is that better-off done *after* I check EGR routes? TIA

98150xlt - It wouldn't hurt anything to run Seafoam thru the engine (especially if you have 40K+ miles), but I would check the EGR passages first.

If those are clogged, cleaning any carbon deposits inside the cylinders isn't going to overcome blocked ports.

There should still be a picture floating around of a TB elbow that I won off of eBay, those ports were fully plugged up. I can't imagine how badly that person's engine must have pinged!

How many miles has it been since your last fuel filter change and injector service?