Labnerd,
I have a 2002 F150 4.6L Scab with the 4R70W and 3.55LS. I am currently running Mobil 1 5W-30 with the Microfilter that Mobil recommends. In your opinion, is using the Motocraft 5W-20 synthetic blend or the Motorcraft 5W-30 full synthetic fairly comprable to the Mobil 1? I have been trying to read up online on several tests of the various synthetic oils out there, and Mobil 1 seems to be marginally better if better at all. Thank you for your time and any help that you can provide.

 

The Motorcraft Synthetic 5w-20 is a dino blend of Group II+ and Group III basestock with a VI of 147. The Motorcraft 5w-30 that I have seen on the shelves is not a synthetic but a dino. Mobil One is a PAO (polyalphaolefin ) basestock. While still a petroleum product, PAO's have higher Viscosity Index's, and will hold their viscosity over a broader range than dinos. Most people don't NEED a synthetic. Synthetics have the advantage of withstanding higher temperatures without breaking down. And that's pretty much it. They have higher wear metals per analysis ( 2-3 times) than good dinos so they are not a magic bullet. The difference between the wear metals of synthetics and dinos are not as critical as it may sound though, driving habits will effect wear metals more than the type of basestock. I don't recommend Mobil One at all even though it is the most popular synthetic out there. If your driving is to and from work, occasional trip, occasionally pulling a trailer, you don't need a synthetic and the service life of the engine will not be increased by using a synthetic. However, if you are in a high heat environnment, prolonged idle, usually have a trailer behind, and are constantly driving at high speeds, you need a synthetic. For these conditions you need a quality synthetic. Amzoil fits this bill. You need to be aware that their synthetic is not API certified and it is critical that you keep your vehicle in top running condition and get an oil analysis at every oil change. Anyone using Amzoil also needs to be using their oil filters as well, they are designed to work with the oil package.

 

thanks labnerd,
like you, i also live in south texas (College Station at Texas A&M) where there seems to be a mild to hot climate most of the year. i do take occasional trips of 200-300 miles. would amsoil be the way to go? it appeared that you answered my question already with stating that amsoil is the ticket, but i would appreciate your opinion on the oil for my application. thank you again and i do not mean to be a pest but this truck needs to last me.

 

Labnerd~

I still think Red Line is better !

I'm just kidding around with you. I'm loyal to my brand .

Seriously, doesn't Amsoil make a blend as well as a full syn.?
Which one is better for extreme usage?

Thanks,

Matt

 

Labnerd, this is not totally accurate:

This was taken from Amsoils online spec sheet for their oils. If you are not using extended drains the Amsoil filter is no required, even if you are but don't want to use the Amsoil filters, then you can change "other" brand filters at 5,000 mile intervals.

 

True, if you are sticking to a Normal driving condition, and changing every 3,000 a synthetic will probably not benifit you much.

But then again, I've seen instances where engines that were changed at 3,000 had sludge and varnish built up.
Besides the high/low temp protection, synthetics will allow you to extend your drains, which helps balance out the price. Also because synthetics are more slippery you should see a fuel savings of 3-5% over conventional oils.
Lastly, I wouldn't say that Mobil 1 is a bad oil, for an off the shelf syn, there aren't many that are better. Especially since they are about the only PAO/Ester syn that is available on the shelf.

Penzoil, Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol, are all Group III basestocks. That are called synthetics only for marketing purposes.

 

Yes, but not in a 5w30. The blend is the 10w40(which is going away) and the 15w40 diesel blend.
I've only used it once(currently in my Triumph Sprint ST as a breakin oil) and have never sold any amsoil blends. Just not worth it.

 

Mile64, For your purposes, a good dino should get you 250,000 miles out of the engine if you change the oil at regular intervals. Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend, Chevron Supreme or Castrol in 5w-20 or 10w-30 changed at 4,000 miles will do this nicely.

mf150, If I had an engine that was used for the race environment only it would have Redline in it. Redline has a lot of moly in it and will plate up the motor quickly which is what you want for a race motor. And moly is great for boundary lubrication but I don't think that your truck engine is getting pushed to the limit. Or do you drive it on the floor a lot?

Mike, Yet again we agree to disagree. The Amzoil filters are designed to take advantage of the additive package that comes with the oil. It makes no sense to put a cheap oil filter that will have to be prematurely changed and the oil topped off. In regards to the M1, name me a PAO basestock oil with a weaker additive package than M1. There is not much difference between a Gp II+ , Gp III, and M1 as far as there being an advantage especially considering the cost. We both understand, I'm sure, that Mobil is limited by API standards but if you NEED a synthetic, M1 isn't it.

 

Labnerd, I've been using Castrol 5w-30 since I bought my truck with the Motorcraft filter, changed every 3000 miles. I noticed you recommend the Castrol 5w-20 and the 10w-30 but not the 5w-30.

My engine (2000 year, 4.2 V6) calls for the 5w-30 rather than the 5w-20. Is the 5w-30 just as good as the other two oils? Or should I change? We've been using Castrol for years with great engine longevity - but all those vehicles are running the 10w-30... they're a little older than mine.

Thanks!