Oil Recommendation
Oil Recommendation
All,
What's the best oil to use during the summer in a hot climate? I'm in Texas where it stays in the upper 90's a great deal of the summer. Should I stick with the 5W-20 that Ford recommends, or is there a better alternative?
Thanks in advance for the help!
What's the best oil to use during the summer in a hot climate? I'm in Texas where it stays in the upper 90's a great deal of the summer. Should I stick with the 5W-20 that Ford recommends, or is there a better alternative?
Thanks in advance for the help!
I'm about 400 miles south of ya and I use the Motorcraft 5w-20 in my 4.6. I haven't had a bad analysis yet. Rather, they have exceeded my expectations. Wear metals are single digit ( can't do that with your synthetics) but I wouldn't recommend it past 5,000 miles. The oxidation rate goes up and the TBN goes down quick. If you are pulling a trailer, you may want to switch to Castrol GTX in 5w-20 as it has 50 ppm moly or Chevron Supreme in 5w-20 as it also now contains moly. All of the above oils are great but not for extended oil changes.
I keep reading about Ford recommending 5w-20, but my manual says 5w-30. All I have used is the 5w30 since I bought the truck new in '97'. Should I be switching to 5w-20, or just use what I've been using?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by gmt; Apr 20, 2003 at 08:10 AM.
I have also been going with the owner's manual and the 5-30 in my 4.6L.
I've been running Valvoline Durablend and it seems to run great here in OK. It is not quite as hot as TX but close. I change about every 5K.
I've got 117K on my '98. I just finished a motor flush, some Slick 50, Fuel Inj cleaner, new Raybestos QS brake pads (no more dust) and more Durablend.
She's running great except for the problem with the check engine light when my wife drives (see other post).
Any recommendations on oil filters?
I've been running Valvoline Durablend and it seems to run great here in OK. It is not quite as hot as TX but close. I change about every 5K.
I've got 117K on my '98. I just finished a motor flush, some Slick 50, Fuel Inj cleaner, new Raybestos QS brake pads (no more dust) and more Durablend.
She's running great except for the problem with the check engine light when my wife drives (see other post).
Any recommendations on oil filters?
I was just reading a post on the same question on this other board.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=1;t=001969
Notice the comment that 5w-30 is very similar to 5w-20.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=1;t=001969
Notice the comment that 5w-30 is very similar to 5w-20.
Let me expand my comments here. The new Triton engines that require the 5w-20 oil are part for part, the exact same engine as the ones requiring 5w-30 or 10w-30. The 5w-20 requirement is for Fords CAFE ( Corporate Average Fuel Economy). There is no reason that you can't use any of the Xw-30 oils but the 5w-20 does give better fuel mileage and will help the engine run cooler. Considering the analysis of used 5w-20 oils meeting spec there is no reason not to use them. Also, the actual viscosity of the 5w-20 is almost a 30w at temp.
Fordokie,
I would suggest that you stay with the Motorcraft or Puralator filters. I can give you the Beta Ratio on the different brands if you want but frankly, because of the test criteria, they are meaningless. If you can't find either of those, try the Wix or NAPA Gold filters (they are the same filter made by Wix). They flow more oil but allow more dirt to bi-pass. They also don't have the amount of filtering media that the Motorcraft/ Purolator have thereby, possibly going into bi-pass before you change it out. I would also suggest you rethink the Slick 50. It has caused blockage in some of the newer engine oil ports and the motor starves for oil. You may want to check with the NHTSA to see if they are still in litigation.
Fordokie,
I would suggest that you stay with the Motorcraft or Puralator filters. I can give you the Beta Ratio on the different brands if you want but frankly, because of the test criteria, they are meaningless. If you can't find either of those, try the Wix or NAPA Gold filters (they are the same filter made by Wix). They flow more oil but allow more dirt to bi-pass. They also don't have the amount of filtering media that the Motorcraft/ Purolator have thereby, possibly going into bi-pass before you change it out. I would also suggest you rethink the Slick 50. It has caused blockage in some of the newer engine oil ports and the motor starves for oil. You may want to check with the NHTSA to see if they are still in litigation.
Last edited by Labnerd; Apr 17, 2003 at 10:16 PM.
For those saying their owners manual says 5w30 and questioning the 5w20, here is the deal. In the 2001 model year, ford switched its recommended motor oil for the Triton engines to 5w20 from 5w30. As Labnerd says, this was done for CAFE reasons only. A few tenths of a mpg over a fleet makes a big difference for Ford in trying to meet the requirements.
A little history on the 4.6l engine, which made its debut in 1991 (can you believe its 12 years old!), the original oil recommendation was 10w30. Mid 1990's switched that recommendation to 5w30. In 2001, it switched to 5w20. Each change netted a different CAFE benefit.
As labnerd says, oil analysis results on the 5w20 in these engines are showing no reason not to use it. There hasn't really been a result that hasn't been at least as good as a 5w30 oil that I have seen. Of course, as we see more hot weather results, that may change.
Ford does say that the 5w20 can be used in all of the Triton engines, regardless of model year, so those of you who have engines that 5w30 was recommended in can use 5w20 if you would like, but if 5w30 has worked fine in the past, there is zero reason to change to 5w20.
A little history on the 4.6l engine, which made its debut in 1991 (can you believe its 12 years old!), the original oil recommendation was 10w30. Mid 1990's switched that recommendation to 5w30. In 2001, it switched to 5w20. Each change netted a different CAFE benefit.
As labnerd says, oil analysis results on the 5w20 in these engines are showing no reason not to use it. There hasn't really been a result that hasn't been at least as good as a 5w30 oil that I have seen. Of course, as we see more hot weather results, that may change.
Ford does say that the 5w20 can be used in all of the Triton engines, regardless of model year, so those of you who have engines that 5w30 was recommended in can use 5w20 if you would like, but if 5w30 has worked fine in the past, there is zero reason to change to 5w20.
Trending Topics
Follow-Up
I love the knowledge that are on these boards. I've learned a lot on here. Thanks for the info. I went with the Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic and Motorcraft filter. $20.74 at the Super Wal-Mart which can't be beat...especially since Jiffy Lube (and other quick lube places) wanted $49.99 for the synthetic oil change. I will say the dealer came in quite good at only $23.95.
Thanks for the head's up Labnerd. I didn't know that Slick 50 was bad.
I'll do some searching and find a little more info. The only time I have ever used this is after an engine flush.
Questions: Do synthetic/synthetic blend oils do the same/similar thing without clogging ports?
Is there something that works better without clogging them?
I only flush around 100K, to clean it a bit. Is this bad too?
You've got me a bit concerned.
I'll do some searching and find a little more info. The only time I have ever used this is after an engine flush.
Questions: Do synthetic/synthetic blend oils do the same/similar thing without clogging ports?
Is there something that works better without clogging them?
I only flush around 100K, to clean it a bit. Is this bad too?
You've got me a bit concerned.
There have been a number of good reports from those who have used Auto-RX, which will not clog the ports. You add it to your oil, install a new filter and run it for 500 miles. It disolves the varnish and sludge in your engine and suspends it in your oil, which delivers it to the oil filter.
FordOkie,
The Slick 50 has teflon in it and it has a tendency to stack up in the oil ports especially where they make a turn. I wouldn't suggest using an oil flush unless absolutely necessary. The recommended Auto-rx is an ester based product that works slow and easy on the engine. It is a great product but their marketing makes it seem like snake oil. If you use it, make sure to follow the instructions and it will be fine.
The Slick 50 has teflon in it and it has a tendency to stack up in the oil ports especially where they make a turn. I wouldn't suggest using an oil flush unless absolutely necessary. The recommended Auto-rx is an ester based product that works slow and easy on the engine. It is a great product but their marketing makes it seem like snake oil. If you use it, make sure to follow the instructions and it will be fine.
Should I drain the oil & Slick 50 and do another oil change?
I don't want to spend another $20, but it seems worth it, if I am going to damage my beloved.
Recommendations/Thoughts?
Please help, I'm going from concerned to worried.
I'm stopping off at the parts store tomorrow for a 'puter reading and I could grab more oil while there if necessary.
I don't want to spend another $20, but it seems worth it, if I am going to damage my beloved.
Recommendations/Thoughts?
Please help, I'm going from concerned to worried.
I'm stopping off at the parts store tomorrow for a 'puter reading and I could grab more oil while there if necessary.
If it were my truck, I would. I don't think you have damaged anything, I just wouldn't play with the possibility. Our 97 Lariat has had 177,000 mi. on it without having to run an oil additive. We just change the Mobil 1 every 5,000 mi. w/ filter. I believe that if you change teh oil on a regular basis, there should be no need to use a flush or additive. Just my opinion.
Good luck!
Good luck!


